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Sage Green Filet Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Sage Green Filet Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
90-130 Hours 0 made this
Intermediate Level

You need to know dc, sc and how to read a simple filet mesh.

Square by Square

Each square takes about 45 minutes, so it is easy to work in small sessions.

Soft Sage and Cream

A calm green frame around a light cream window suits any bedroom.

About This Sage Green Filet Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bed cover is made from 110 sage green squares, and every square has a cream filet mesh window in the center. The mesh is a 4 by 4 grid of open spaces, and it is framed by thick green rows and a scalloped edge of round shells.

Each square measures about 8 inches, and the squares are joined in a grid of 10 wide by 11 long. The finished cover is about 80 by 88 inches. You will use filet mesh, sc, dc, shells and whipstitch joining. It suits a crocheter who has made a few squares and wants a big, calm project for a bedroom.

Sage Green Filet Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Sage Green Filet Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love this project because the mesh centers are quick and the green frames are relaxing to work. Each square is small, so I can take one along and finish it in an afternoon.

When the squares are joined, the shells meet and make round rings between the windows. That detail is my favorite part. It looks lovely on a bed with white linen, and it would make a wonderful gift for a new home.


Switch Things Up

Try a dusty blue frame with a cream window, or a soft grey frame for a modern bedroom. For a baby blanket, make 5 by 6 squares for a cover about 40 by 48 inches. For a throw, make 6 by 8 squares for about 48 by 64 inches. You can also change the cream mesh to a pale yellow for a warmer look.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight cotton yarn (size 4), sage green: about 2,500 yards (about 1,400 g), including the joining
02 Worsted weight cotton yarn (size 4), cream: about 500 yards (about 280 g) for the 110 mesh centers
03 Yardage is an estimate and depends on your tension, so buy a little extra of each color

— Tools Required

04 4 mm (G-6) crochet hook, or the size that gives you an 8 inch square
05 Yarn needle for joining and weaving in ends
06 Stitch markers
07 Scissors
08 Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
09 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 90-130 Hours

0% complete

— Filet Square (Make 110, cream center with sage green frame) :

Each square starts with a cream filet mesh center worked in rows, then you change to sage green and work rounds around it. Finished square is about 8 inches. Turn your work at the end of each mesh row.
Row 1 (cream): Ch 15. Dc in 6th ch from hook, *ch 2, skip 2 chs, dc in next ch*, repeat from * to * 3 more times. Turn. (4 ch-2 sps, 5 dc counting the skipped chs as the first dc)
Row 2 (cream): Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch-2 sp), dc in next dc, *ch 2, dc in next dc*, repeat from * to * 2 more times, ending with the last dc in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch of the previous row. Turn. (4 ch-2 sps, 5 dc counting the beginning ch)
Row 3 (cream): Repeat Row 2. (4 ch-2 sps, 5 dc counting the beginning ch)
Row 4 (cream): Repeat Row 2 but do not turn. Fasten off cream. You now have a 4 by 4 grid of open spaces. (4 ch-2 sps, 5 dc counting the beginning ch)
Round 5 (sage green): Join sage green with a sl st in any corner of the mesh. Ch 1, 3 sc in the same corner. Along the top and bottom edges work 1 sc in each dc and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, with 1 extra sc in the second ch-2 sp (12 sc between corners). Along each side work 12 sc evenly spaced over the row ends. Work 3 sc in each of the other 3 corners. Sl st to first sc. (60 sc)
Round 6 (sage green): Sl st into the middle sc of any 3-sc corner. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the same sc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same sc (first corner). *Dc in each of the next 14 sc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner middle sc*, repeat from * to * 2 more times. Dc in each of the next 14 sc, sl st to top of beginning ch 3. (72 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps)
Round 7 (sage green): Sl st in the first corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, 6 sc in the same sp. *Sc in each of the next 18 dc, 6 sc in the next corner ch-2 sp*, repeat from * to * 2 more times. Sc in each of the next 18 dc, sl st to first sc. (96 sc)
Round 8 (sage green): Sl st in the first sc of any 6-sc corner group. *Skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 2 sc, sl st in next sc*, repeat from * to * 15 more times, so the last sl st lands in the first sc of the round. Fasten off. Each side has 3 shells and each corner has 1 shell. (16 shells, 80 dc, 16 sl sts)
Weave in all ends and block each square to 8 inches before joining. Check the first square against your measuring tape and change hook size if it is off.

— Layout :

Grid: 10 squares wide by 11 squares long, 110 squares in total.
Color placement: every square is sage green with a cream mesh center, so there is no color order to follow. Turn all squares the same way so the mesh grids line up in straight rows.
Finished size after joining and blocking: about 80 by 88 inches.

— Border :

This cover needs no separate border. The scalloped edge of the cover comes from Round 8 of each square, and the shells along the outer edge form the border.
At every seam, the four corner shells of the neighbouring squares meet and form a round ring. Do not flatten the scallops by adding a tight edging round.
For a firmer edge on a throw or baby blanket, block the finished piece with the scallops pinned out evenly.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Weave in all ends on the 110 filet squares and block each one to 8 inches.
  2. Lay the squares out on a bed or floor in the Layout grid of 10 across and 11 down, with every square turned the same way.
  3. With sage green yarn and a yarn needle, whipstitch the squares together through the back loops only, matching shell to shell along each side.
  4. Join the squares into 11 rows of 10 first, then whipstitch the rows together, matching the corner shells at every seam.
  5. Check that the four corner shells meet neatly at each seam and form a round ring.
  6. Weave in the joining ends and block the whole cover flat, pinning the Border scallops out evenly along the outer edge.
  7. Let it dry fully before putting it on the bed.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Losing a space in the mesh rows makes the center lopsided, so count 4 ch-2 sps at the end of every row.

Squares that come out different sizes will make the grid wavy, so measure each square after blocking and set aside any that are off by more than a quarter inch.

Skipping the corner ch-2 sp on Round 6 makes the frame pull in, so always work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner middle sc.

Joining too tightly flattens the scallops, so whipstitch loosely and match each shell to its partner.


Denise

Denise designs cozy, easy-to-follow crochet patterns for home decor, with a love of lace squares and soft natural colors.



Important Notes

Gauge: the cream mesh should measure about 3 inches across, and the finished square should be 8 inches. Use a larger or smaller hook if yours is not.

Always block the squares before joining, as it opens the mesh and makes the shells lie flat.

Yarn amounts are estimates for 110 squares, so buy extra sage green and cream from the same dye lot.

Wash gently by hand or on a delicate cycle in cool water and dry flat, since cotton gets heavy when wet.


I hope you enjoy making this bed cover one square at a time. Take your time, enjoy the little windows growing, and send me a message when your first row is joined.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sl st — slip stitch
03 sc — single crochet
04 dc — double crochet
05 sp — space
06 st(s) — stitch(es)

You Ask, We Answer

What size is the finished bed cover?

It is about 80 by 88 inches with 110 squares in a grid of 10 by 11. Make fewer squares for a throw or baby blanket.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes. Lighter yarn with a smaller hook makes smaller squares, so you will need more squares to reach the same size. Always make one test square and measure it first.

How do I wash it?

Wash by hand or on a delicate cycle in cool water with mild soap, then dry flat. Cotton is heavy when wet, so support the weight and do not hang it.