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Gray Rose Lace Bedspread Crochet Pattern

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Gray Rose Lace Bedspread Crochet Pattern
110-140 Hours 4 made this
Intermediate Skill

You need to be comfortable with double crochet, filet mesh and simple embroidery.

110-140 Hours

Thirty portable blocks make this a long project you can work on a little at a time.

Roses On Lace

Red roses sit inside silver-gray mesh, with lace fans that meet in round rosettes.

About This Gray Rose Lace Bedspread Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bedspread is made from 30 square blocks. Each block has a silver-gray filet mesh center with a red cross-stitch rose and two dark green leaves, framed by a lacy border of open arches and shell fans. When the blocks are joined, the corner fans meet and form round rosettes across the whole cover.

The finished size is about 70 by 84 inches, with each block measuring about 14 inches. You will use filet mesh, single crochet, double crochet fans and a little cross-stitch embroidery. It suits crocheters who have finished a few blankets and want a showpiece for the bedroom.

Gray Rose Lace Bedspread Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Gray Rose Lace Bedspread Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love that every block is small enough to carry in a bag. You can crochet a mesh square while you wait, then add the rose at the kitchen table in the evening.

Gray is calm and goes with almost everything, so the red roses really stand out. It also makes a wonderful gift for a wedding or a new home.


Switch Things Up

Try ivory blocks with burgundy roses, or soft blue blocks with white roses. Make 3 by 4 blocks for a sofa throw, or 6 by 7 blocks for a queen size cover with a drop to the floor. You can also make a single block into a pillow cover to match, or change the outer shells to a simple picot edge.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 DK weight (3) cotton yarn in silver gray: about 1,500 g (about 3,750 yd) for the 30 blocks and joining
02 DK weight cotton yarn in silver gray: about 120 g (about 300 yd) more for the outer edge
03 DK weight cotton yarn in red: about 100 g (about 250 yd) for the roses
04 DK weight cotton yarn in dark green: about 60 g (about 150 yd) for the stems and leaves

— Tools Required

05 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook
06 Yarn needle for embroidery and weaving in ends
07 Stitch markers
08 Scissors
09 Blocking mats and pins
10 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 110-140 Hours

0% complete

— Rose Block Mesh Center (Make 30, silver gray) :

Each space is a ch-1 space between two dc. The mesh is 21 spaces wide and 21 rows high. Sizes and yarn amounts are estimated from the photo, so work one block and check it before you make all 30.
Row 1: Ch 45, dc in 5th ch from hook (the first 4 chs count as dc and ch 1), (ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch) 20 times. (22 dc, 21 ch-1 sps)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, skip the first dc, dc in next dc, (ch 1, dc in next dc) 19 times, ch 1, dc in the 3rd ch of the first 4 chs of Row 1. (22 dc, 21 ch-1 sps)
Rows 3 to 21: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), turn, skip the first dc, dc in next dc, (ch 1, dc in next dc) 19 times, ch 1, dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch-4. Repeat for 19 rows in total. Do not fasten off. (22 dc, 21 ch-1 sps in every row)

— Rose Block Lace Border (Make 30, silver gray) :

Work around the mesh square. Corner groups are counted separately from the 41 straight stitches on each side, which keeps every round divisible.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 3 sc in each corner and 41 sc evenly spaced along each side (about 2 sc per row end, with one extra sc in a few row ends to reach 41). Join with sl st to first sc. (176 sc: 41 per side, 3 per corner)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, working 3 sc in the center sc of each corner group. Join with sl st to first sc. (184 sc: 41 per side, 5 per corner)
Round 3: Sl st along to the first st after a corner group (the first st of a straight side). Ch 1, *sc in first st of the side, (ch 3, skip 3 sc, sc in next sc) 10 times, ch 3, skip 2 sc, (sc, ch 5, sc) in the center sc of the corner group, ch 3, skip 2 sc; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. (52 sc, 48 ch-3 sps, 4 ch-5 corner sps)
Round 4: Ch 1, then work around in order: sc in each sc, 3 sc in each ch-3 sp, 7 sc in each ch-5 sp. Join with sl st to first sc. (224 sc: 41 per side, 15 per corner)
Round 5: Ch 1, *sc in first st of the side (the join st for the first repeat), (skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st) 10 times, (skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st), (skip 3 sts, 13 dc in next st, skip 3 sts), (skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st); repeat from * 3 more times. Join with sl st to first sc and fasten off. (52 sc, 292 dc; each block has 4 large 13-dc corner fans and 48 small 5-dc fans)

— Rose Embroidery (Make 30, red and dark green) :

Embroider each rose after the border is done. Number the mesh rows 1 to 21 from the top and the mesh spaces 1 to 21 from the left. Work one cross stitch over each space and the dc beside it, using the yarn needle and one strand of yarn. Keep all top stitches slanting the same way. The chart is estimated from the photo.
Red, mesh row 5: Spaces 7 to 10. (4 crosses)
Red, mesh row 6: Spaces 6 to 11. (6 crosses)
Red, mesh row 7: Spaces 5 to 12. (8 crosses)
Red, mesh row 8: Spaces 5 to 7 and 10 to 12, leaving spaces 8 and 9 gray for the center swirl. (6 crosses)
Red, mesh row 9: Spaces 5 to 7 and 10 to 12, leaving spaces 8 and 9 gray. (6 crosses)
Red, mesh row 10: Spaces 5 to 12. (8 crosses)
Red, mesh row 11: Spaces 6 to 11. (6 crosses)
Red, mesh row 12: Spaces 7 to 10. (4 crosses)
Green, mesh row 8: Spaces 13 and 14. (2 crosses)
Green, mesh row 9: Spaces 13 to 15. (3 crosses)
Green, mesh row 10: Spaces 13 to 15. (3 crosses)
Green, mesh row 11: Spaces 12 to 14. (3 crosses)
Green, mesh row 12: Spaces 11 to 13. (3 crosses)
Green, mesh row 13: Spaces 10 to 12. (3 crosses)
Green, mesh row 14: Spaces 10 and 11, then 13 and 14. (4 crosses)
Green, mesh row 15: Spaces 10 and 11, then 13 to 15. (5 crosses)
Green, mesh row 16: Spaces 10 and 11, then 13 to 15. (5 crosses)
Green, mesh row 17: Spaces 10 and 11, then 13 and 14. (4 crosses)
Total per block: 48 red crosses and 35 green crosses. Block all 30 squares to about 14 inches before joining.

— Layout and Joining :

Arrange the 30 blocks in 5 columns and 6 rows, about 70 by 84 inches. All blocks are identical, with every rose upright and the stems pointing down.
Each block edge has two large corner fans with 12 small fans between them, and 13 sc along the edge.
Join with wrong sides together and edges level. Insert the hook into the first sc of both blocks, sl st through both, then sl st in each of the next 12 sc of both blocks. (13 sl st per seam, 49 seams in total: 24 across the rows and 25 down the columns.) The fans stay loose and open, and where four large corner fans meet they form a round rosette.
Join the blocks into 6 strips of 5 blocks first, then join the strips.

— Outer Edge (silver gray) :

There are 304 fans around the outside of the cover: 70 along the top, 70 along the bottom and 84 along each side, minus the 4 corner fans that are counted twice.
Round 1: Join gray with a sl st in the center dc of any small fan. Ch 1, sc in the same dc, (ch 3, sc in the center dc of the next fan) 303 times, ch 3, sl st to first sc. (304 sc, 304 ch-3 sps)
Round 2: Sl st into the first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in the same sp, (sc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp) 303 times, sl st in the first sc of Round 1 and fasten off. (304 shells of 5 dc = 1,520 dc, 303 sc)

Assembly Instructions

  1. Weave in all ends on the Rose Block Mesh Center and Rose Block Lace Border pieces before you embroider.
  2. Embroider the red rose and the dark green leaves on every mesh center, following the Rose Embroidery chart.
  3. Wet block each of the 30 blocks to about 14 inches square and let them dry completely.
  4. Lay the blocks out in 5 columns and 6 rows with all roses upright, as in the Layout and Joining section.
  5. Join the blocks into 6 strips of 5, then join the strips, working 13 sl st through both blocks on every seam.
  6. Check that the corner fans of four blocks meet in a round rosette at each inner junction.
  7. Work the Outer Edge around the whole cover, then block the edge lightly and weave in the last ends.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Losing count in the mesh rows. Count the 22 dc and 21 spaces at the end of every few rows so the square stays exactly 21 spaces wide.

Uneven sc counts in Round 1 of the border. Mark each corner and check you have 41 sc on every side, because the later rounds depend on it.

Joining with right sides together. The fans must stay on the outside, so hold the blocks with wrong sides together.

Pulling the embroidery too tight. Keep the cross stitches loose so the mesh square stays flat.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves turning classic lace and floral motifs into patterns that are easy to follow.



Important Notes

Gauge: 21 mesh spaces measure about 9 inches square, and each block should block to about 14 inches. Make one block first and adjust your hook size if needed.

Yarn amounts and sizes are estimated, so buy a little extra gray and keep the same dye lot together.

To get the contrast seen in the photo, lay the cover over a charcoal gray blanket or sheet.

Wash gently in cool water with a color catcher, because the red yarn can bleed onto the gray. Dry flat.


I hope you enjoy making these little roses as much as I did. Send me a message when your first block is done, I would love to hear how it turned out.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sl st — slip stitch
03 sc — single crochet
04 dc — double crochet
05 sp — space
06 st — stitch

You Ask, We Answer

How big is the finished bedspread?

With 5 by 6 blocks at about 14 inches each, it measures about 70 by 84 inches. Add a row or column of blocks for a queen size cover.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes. Worsted cotton with a 4 mm hook makes bigger blocks of about 17 inches, so you would need fewer blocks. Keep the stitch counts the same and check the block size first.

How do I wash and care for it?

Wash on a gentle cycle in cool water with a color catcher, then lay it flat to dry. Cotton lace dries best when it is reshaped by hand.