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Blue and Tan Square Block Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Blue and Tan Square Block Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
80-110 Hours 3 made this
Intermediate Level

Double crochet and a simple spike stitch are all you need.

80 to 110 Hours

Make one portable block at a time, then join them.

Cozy Bedroom Piece

Deep teal, sky blue, tan and cream make a calm, classic bed cover.

About This Blue and Tan Square Block Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bed cover is made from 48 square blocks, each worked in 11 rounds from the center out. Every block starts with a cream star center, grows into a tan square, then finishes with rounds of sky blue and deep teal. Small spike stitch bridges cross the middle of each side and give the block a woven look.

The blocks measure about 10 inches and are joined in 6 columns by 8 rows with cream seams, then framed with a four round border. The finished cover is about 66 by 86 inches in chunky cotton yarn. You only need double crochet, single crochet and the spike double crochet, so it suits anyone who has finished a few blankets.

Blue and Tan Square Block Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Blue and Tan Square Block Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love projects I can pick up for ten minutes and put down again. Each block is small, so I can crochet one on the sofa, at the kitchen table or on a trip. Watching the pile of squares grow is the best motivation.

The four colors feel calm and warm together, and the spike stitch bridges keep every round interesting. It would make a lovely housewarming or wedding gift.


Switch Things Up

Try swapping the teal and sky blue for sage and soft green, or for dusty rose and cream. Make only 20 blocks (4 by 5) for a sofa throw, or 12 blocks (3 by 4) for a baby blanket. Crochet a few extra blocks and sew them into square pillow covers that match the bed. For a softer edge, finish with a cream shell round instead of the last single crochet round.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Chunky weight (5) matte cotton or cotton blend yarn, about 6,400 yd in total
02 Deep teal blue: about 2,400 yd (approx. 2,000 g)
03 Bright sky blue: about 1,800 yd (approx. 1,500 g)
04 Warm tan: about 1,400 yd (approx. 1,150 g), used for Rounds 3 to 5 of each block and Border Rounds 2 and 3
05 Cream: about 800 yd (approx. 650 g), used for the star centers, the seams and Border Rounds 1 and 4
06 Yardage is an estimate for 48 blocks and the border. Buy a little extra of each color from the same dye lot.

— Tools Required

07 6 mm (J-10) crochet hook
08 Yarn needle
09 Stitch markers
10 Scissors
11 Blocking mats and pins
12 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 80-110 Hours

0% complete

— Layout and Color Plan :

Make 48 identical square blocks (Make 48). Each block uses all four colors: cream for Rounds 1 and 2, tan for Rounds 3 to 5, sky blue for Rounds 6 to 8 and deep teal for Rounds 9 to 11.
Lay the blocks out in 6 columns by 8 rows. Every block faces the same way, so the spike stitch bridges line up across the cover.
Join the blocks with cream seams, then work a 4 round border: Round 1 cream, Rounds 2 and 3 tan, Round 4 cream.
Each block measures about 10 in. The joined cover is about 60 by 80 in before the border and about 66 by 86 in after it.

— Square Block (Make 48, cream, tan, sky blue and deep teal) :

Do not turn between rounds. Spike dc: insert the hook into the stitch two rounds below, pull up a loop to the height of the current round, then finish like a dc. Do not pull tight or the block will pucker.
Round 1 (cream): Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 15 dc in the ring. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3 and pull the ring tight. (16 dc)
Round 2 (cream): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the same st, ch 2, 2 dc in the same st for the first corner. *Dc in each of the next 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next st; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each of the last 3 sts. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. (28 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 7 dc on each side)
Round 3 (tan): Join tan with a sl st in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp for the first corner. *Dc in each of the next 7 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each of the last 7 dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. (36 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 9 dc on each side)
Round 4 (tan): Sl st in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 9 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each of the last 9 dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. (44 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 11 dc on each side)
Round 5 (tan): Sl st in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 11 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each of the last 11 dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. (52 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 13 dc on each side)
Round 6 (sky blue): Join sky blue with a sl st in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 5 dc, work 3 spike dc into the 3 middle sts of the same side in Round 4, skipping the 3 dc of Round 5 directly behind them, dc in each of the next 5 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each of the next 5 dc, 3 spike dc as before, dc in each of the last 5 dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. (60 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 15 dc on each side)
Round 7 (sky blue): Sl st in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 15 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each of the last 15 dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. (68 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 17 dc on each side)
Round 8 (sky blue): Sl st in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 17 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each of the last 17 dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. (76 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 19 dc on each side)
Round 9 (deep teal): Join deep teal with a sl st in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 8 dc, work 3 spike dc into the 3 middle sts of the same side in Round 7, skipping the 3 dc of Round 8 directly behind them, dc in each of the next 8 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each of the next 8 dc, 3 spike dc as before, dc in each of the last 8 dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. (84 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 21 dc on each side)
Round 10 (deep teal): Sl st in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 21 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each of the last 21 dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. (92 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 23 dc on each side)
Round 11 (deep teal): Sl st in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 23 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each of the last 23 dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. Fasten off and weave in ends. (100 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 25 dc on each side)
Block each square to about 10 in before joining. Make sure every block has the same number of stitches on each side.

— Joining the Blocks (Make 82 seams, cream) :

Join the 6 blocks of each row first (5 seams per row, 40 seams), then join the 8 rows together (7 seams per column, 42 seams). Hold the two blocks with wrong sides together and corners matched, so the cream ridge shows on the right side.
Seam: Join cream with a sc through both corner ch-2 sps. Sc through both blocks in each of the next 25 dc, then 1 sc through both corner ch-2 sps. Fasten off. (27 sc)
Where four corners meet, work the seam sc through all four corner sps if you can, or close the gap with a few cream stitches.

— Border (4 rounds) :

Round 1 (cream): Join cream with a sl st in any outer corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, 3 sc in the same sp. *Sc in each dc and in each seam join across to the next outer corner sp, 3 sc in the corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Sc in each dc and seam join to the start. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (736 sc: 155 on each short side, 207 on each long side, plus 3 sc in each of the 4 corners)
Round 2 (tan): Join tan with a sl st in the middle sc of any 3 sc corner. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the same st, ch 2, 2 dc in the same st for the first corner. *Dc in each sc across to the middle sc of the next corner, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in that st; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each sc to the start. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. (748 dc and 4 ch-2 corner sps: 161 dc on each short side, 213 dc on each long side)
Round 3 (tan): Sl st in the next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in the same sp. *Dc in each dc across to the next corner sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in each dc to the start. Join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch 3. (764 dc and 4 ch-2 corner sps: 165 dc on each short side, 217 dc on each long side)
Round 4 (cream): Join cream with a sl st in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, 3 sc in the same sp. *Sc in each dc across to the next corner sp, 3 sc in the corner sp; repeat from * 2 more times. Sc in each dc to the start. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends. (776 sc: 165 on each short side, 217 on each long side, plus 3 sc in each of the 4 corners)

Assembly Instructions

  1. Weave in all ends on every block, then wet or steam block each square to about 10 inches.
  2. Lay out all 48 square blocks in 6 columns by 8 rows, all facing the same way, and take a photo so you keep the order.
  3. Join the blocks into 8 rows of 6 with the cream seam, wrong sides together, so the ridge shows on the right side.
  4. Join the 8 rows with the same seam, matching the corners of every block carefully.
  5. Work Border Rounds 1 to 4 around the whole cover, placing a stitch marker in each outer corner.
  6. Weave in the last ends and block the finished cover flat to its final size.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Missing the first dc after a corner is the most common reason a side count is off. Check the count at the end of every round.

Pulling spike stitches too tight makes the block pucker. Pull each loop up to the full height of the round.

Joining blocks that face different ways breaks up the bridges. Lay out every block before you start the seams.

Making blocks of different sizes makes the seams ripple. Block every square to the same 10 inch size first.


Denise

Denise designs cozy, easy to follow crochet patterns for the home, with clear stitch counts and friendly tips.



Important Notes

Gauge: Rounds 1 to 4 of a block measure about 4.5 inches square with a 6 mm hook. Finished blocks should be about 10 inches. Change hook size if yours are off.

Yardage is estimated from the photo. Test one block and weigh it before you buy all the yarn.

Block each square before joining and block the whole cover again once the border is done.

Wash gently in cool water with a color catcher, since deep teal and cream are used together, and lay flat to dry.


I hope you enjoy making this cover one block at a time. Tell me which colors you chose, I would love to see them. Happy crocheting!

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sl st — slip stitch
03 sc — single crochet
04 dc — double crochet
05 sp — space
06 st(s) — stitch(es)
07 beg — beginning
08 spike dc — double crochet worked into the stitch two rounds below, pulling the loop up to the height of the current round

You Ask, We Answer

What is the finished size of this bed cover?

About 66 by 86 inches with 48 blocks and the border. For a larger queen size cover, make 8 columns by 10 rows (80 blocks) and recount the border stitches.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes. Worsted weight with a 5 mm hook works, but the blocks come out smaller, so add a few rounds or make more blocks to reach the size you want.

How do I wash and care for it?

Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cool water with a color catcher, or hand wash. Lay it flat to dry and avoid hanging it, because the weight can stretch the stitches.