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Navy and White Starburst Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Navy and White Starburst Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
110-130 Hours 5 made this
Intermediate Level

Simple double crochet rounds plus one squaring round, all written out step by step.

110-130 Hours

About forty five minutes per square, so one or two each evening add up fast.

Stars On Navy

A bright white burst with sixteen points sparkles in the middle of every navy square.

About This Navy and White Starburst Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bed cover is made from one crisp square repeated across the whole bed. Each square is a deep navy blue with a bright white starburst in the center, a round little burst with sixteen points that reaches out into the navy like a snowflake or a sparkler. When the squares are joined with navy, the bed fills with neat rows of white bursts on a dark background, bold and clean like a summer sky full of stars. It looks striking from across the room, yet there is only one square to learn, and it works up quickly.

Each square is worked in the round from a magic ring. The starburst takes three white rounds: a ring of sixteen double crochet, a round of two double crochet in every stitch, and a round of sixteen little points made with a double crochet, a chain and another double crochet. Then you switch to navy. The first navy round squares off the circle with treble crochet at the corners, double crochet beside them and half double crochet in the middle of each side, so the round edge becomes straight without any puckering. The navy fills in around the points, which makes the white burst look sharp and sparkly.

Two more rounds of navy double crochet and a final round of single crochet complete the square. These solid rounds make the fabric dense, warm and smooth, with a fine diagonal line of tiny holes at each corner. Each square ends on 116 single crochet with four corner spaces, and the finished, blocked square measures about 8 inches. The starburst itself is about 4 inches across, so it fills the middle of the square nicely.

The queen size uses 132 squares in a grid of 11 squares across and 12 squares down. The joined center measures about 88 by 96 inches. A border of navy, two white rounds and a navy shell round adds about 1.5 inches on every side, for a finished size of roughly 91 by 99 inches. That covers a queen mattress and drapes well down the sides of the bed.

The squares are joined with a navy slip stitch seam through the back loops of the last round. Because the seam matches the squares, the bed cover looks almost like one dark piece of fabric, and the white bursts seem to float on it. A crisp band of white in the border picks up the color of the bursts, and the navy shells finish the edge with a soft scallop.

The finished bed cover is warm, sturdy and very easy to live with. Navy is a forgiving color that hides everyday wear, and the white bursts keep it bright and fresh. I would call this an intermediate project, mostly because of its size and the squaring round. The stitches are friendly for a confident beginner, but 132 squares ask for steady tension and patience over many weeks. If you can make one granny square and you love a classic color pair, you can make this whole bed cover one burst at a time.

Navy and White Starburst Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Navy and White Starburst Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love navy and white together. It is the most classic pair I know, like a sailor's stripe, a blue and white china plate or a summer cottage by the sea. It never goes out of style, and it suits almost any room: white walls, gray headboards, warm wood or painted furniture. In a bright bedroom like the one in the photo, this bed cover looks fresh and calm, and in a cozy room with lamps on it feels warm and grounded. It is the kind of blanket that can stay on the bed all year.

The starburst center is my favorite part. There is something so satisfying about the moment the white points pop out after the third round, like a little firework in your hands. Then the navy comes in and wraps around the points, and suddenly the burst looks sharp and bright. I still hold up every finished square to the window to admire it. The squaring round felt tricky the first time, but after two or three squares my hands knew the rhythm.

I also love that the squares are small and quick. One square takes me about forty five minutes, so I can finish one or two in an evening with a cup of tea. A square and two little balls of yarn fit in my handbag, and I take them everywhere: to the doctor's office, to my grandson's baseball games, out on the porch in the morning. Every finished square goes into a basket, and watching that basket fill up with white bursts is the best motivation I know.

Here are a few more reasons this one stays close to my heart:

  • There is only one square to learn, so your hands soon know it by heart.
  • Only two colors, so there is very little to plan.
  • Navy hides small tension changes and everyday wear.
  • It makes a handsome gift for a son, a grandson or a couple's first home.

Each of these makes a big project feel calm and doable, even on busy weeks.

A handmade bed cover changes a room like nothing else. When I make the bed in the morning and smooth this cover over the pillows, the rows of bursts line up so neatly that the whole room looks finished and crisp. Men often love this one too, because it feels bold and simple rather than frilly. My husband says it looks like a night sky full of stars, and he is the one who asked for it on our own bed.

This project taught me to enjoy the slow middle part. On a big bed cover there is always a stretch where the basket seems to stop filling up. I learned to stop counting and just enjoy each square for itself, the soft yarn, the rhythm of the hook, the little white burst appearing in my hands. When I worked the last shell and spread the cover across the bed, I was almost sad to be finished. That is how I know a pattern is a good one.


Switch Things Up

Try a new color pair. The starburst looks lovely in any dark color with a light center. Forest green with cream feels cozy and outdoorsy, and deep red with white is cheerful for the holidays. Charcoal gray with white is calm and modern, and plum with soft pink is romantic and warm. Keep the burst light and the square dark so the points stand out sharply.

Make it for a different bed. Every square is about 8 inches, so changing the size is just a matter of changing the grid. Add or remove a column to change the width, and add or remove a row to change the length. Here is a quick guide with the border included:

  • Twin: 8 across by 12 down, 96 squares, about 67 by 99 inches
  • Full: 10 across by 12 down, 120 squares, about 83 by 99 inches
  • Queen: 11 across by 12 down, 132 squares, about 91 by 99 inches
  • King: 13 across by 12 down, 156 squares, about 107 by 99 inches

For a taller bed or a longer drape, add one more row to the length.

Make a sofa throw. A grid of 6 squares across by 8 squares down uses 48 squares and makes a throw of about 51 by 67 inches with the border. It is a lovely size for the back of a couch or the foot of the bed, and it uses just over a third of the yarn of the queen size. It is also a good way to try the pattern before you commit to the full bed. If you love it, just keep going and turn it into a bed cover later.

Make a baby blanket. A grid of 4 squares across by 5 squares down makes a blanket of about 35 by 43 inches. The bursts are worked right into the squares, so there are no sewn-on parts to worry about. Use a soft, washable baby yarn. Light blue with white, soft gray with white or pale yellow with white all look sweet and fresh in a nursery.

Make matching pillow shams. Six squares joined 3 across by 2 down make a sham front of about 24 by 16 inches, which fits a standard pillow snugly. Use starburst squares on the front and plain navy squares on the back. Join front and back on three sides with navy single crochet, slip the pillow in, and close the last side. A single square also makes a handsome little 8 inch accent pillow for a chair.

Change the edge. For a simple, tailored look, skip the shells and finish with one more round of navy single crochet. For a deeper scallop, work 7 double crochet in each shell instead of 5 and keep the same spacing. You could also work the shells in white so the edge matches the bursts. Each small change gives the cover a new mood, from crisp and nautical to soft and old-fashioned.

Use a different yarn weight. In DK yarn with a 4.0 mm hook, each square comes out at about 6.5 inches, so a queen needs a grid of about 14 across by 15 down. In bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook, each square grows to about 10 inches, and a queen needs about 9 across by 10 down. Always make and block one square first, measure it, and plan your grid from that. Weigh your first square too, so you can work out your yarn amounts.

Mix in plain squares. For fewer bursts to make, alternate starburst squares with plain navy squares in a checkerboard. You still get plenty of sparkle, with less color changing. You could also make a few bursts in light blue or soft gold and scatter them across the bed like stars of different sizes. Each burst uses only about 8 grams of yarn, so this is a happy way to use up leftovers.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (#4) acrylic, cotton blend or acrylic and wool blend yarn in 2 colors
02 Color A, navy: about 3,200 g (about 6,400 yd) for the outer rounds of 132 squares, the joining and 2 border rounds
03 Color B, white: about 1,250 g (about 2,500 yd) for 132 starbursts and 2 border rounds
04 Amounts are estimates for the queen size including the edge; buy one extra skein of each color from the same dye lot

— Tools Required

05 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
06 Yarn needle
07 Stitch markers
08 Scissors
09 Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
10 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 110-130 Hours

0% complete

— Starburst Square (Make 132, white center with navy rounds) :

Color A is navy and Color B is white. The beginning ch 3 counts as a dc and the beginning ch 4 counts as a tr. Work every round with the right side facing and do not turn.
Rnd 1: With B, make a magic ring. Ch 3, 15 dc in ring. Sl st to top of ch 3 and pull the ring closed. (16 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each dc around. Sl st to top of ch 3. (32 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st; rep from * 15 more times. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off B. (16 sc, 32 dc, 16 ch-1 points)
The starburst measures about 4 inches across. Place a stitch marker in every fourth ch-1 point to mark the 4 corners.
Rnd 4: Join A in a marked ch-1 point. Ch 4, (2 tr, ch 2, 3 tr) in same sp, *3 dc in next ch-1 point, 3 hdc in next ch-1 point, 3 dc in next ch-1 point, (3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr) in next marked ch-1 point; rep from * 2 more times, 3 dc in next ch-1 point, 3 hdc in next ch-1 point, 3 dc in next ch-1 point. Sl st to top of ch 4. (24 tr, 24 dc, 12 hdc: 60 sts, 4 ch-2 sp)
Check: each side now has 5 groups of 3 sts between the corner ch-2 sp, with a small sp between groups above each sc valley.
Rnd 5: Sl st in next 2 tr and in the ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in each of next 3 sts, [dc in next sp between groups, dc in each of next 3 sts] 4 times, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each of next 3 sts, [dc in next sp between groups, dc in each of next 3 sts] 4 times. Sl st to top of ch 3. (92 dc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 6: Sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in each of next 23 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each of next 23 dc. Sl st to top of ch 3. (108 dc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each dc around, working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-2 sp. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off, leaving a 6 inch tail. (116 sc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Each side now has 29 sc between the corner ch-2 sp, and the square measures about 8 inches.

— Layout and Joining (11 squares across by 12 squares down) :

Layout: Lay out the 132 blocked Starburst Squares in 12 rows of 11 squares. (132 squares)
Take a photo of the layout before you start joining so you can keep track of your rows.
Short seams: With A, place 2 squares right sides up with edges touching. Sl st through the BLO of both edges, working 1 sl st in each corner ch-2 sp and 1 sl st in each of the 29 sc between. (31 sl st per seam) Join the 11 squares of each row into a strip. (10 seams per strip, 12 strips)
Long seams: With A, join the strips in the same way, working 31 sl st across each square and 1 sl st over each short seam. (351 sl st per long seam, 11 long seams)

— Border (navy, white and navy shells) :

Each short side has 11 squares and 10 seams, and each long side has 12 squares and 11 seams. At each seam work 3 sc: 1 in the corner sp of the first square, 1 in the seam and 1 in the corner sp of the next square.
Rnd 1: Join A in the ch-2 sp at any outer corner. Ch 1, 3 sc in same sp. *Sc in each of the 29 sc of each square along the side, working 3 sc at each seam, then 3 sc in the next outer corner sp; rep from * around, omitting the last corner. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off A. (349 sc on each short side, 381 sc on each long side, 3 sc in each of 4 corners: 1,472 sc)
Rnd 2: Join B in the center sc of any corner. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same st, *dc in each st across to the center sc of the next corner, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in center sc; rep from * around, omitting the last corner. Sl st to top of ch 3. (355 dc on each short side and 387 dc on each long side between corner sp: 1,484 dc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 3: Sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 sp. Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp, *sc in each dc across to the next corner, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, omitting the last corner. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off B. (357 sc on each short side and 389 sc on each long side between corner sp: 1,492 sc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 4: Join A in the corner sp before a short side. Ch 3, 6 dc in same sp. Short side: sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, *sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc; rep from * 58 more times, sk 1 sc, 7 dc in corner sp. Long side: sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, *sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc; rep from * 63 more times, sk 2 sc, 7 dc in corner sp. Repeat the short side and long side once more, omitting the last corner. Sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off. (59 shells on each short side, 64 shells on each long side, 4 corner shells of 7 dc: 250 shells, 250 sc)
Weave in all remaining ends and give the finished bed cover a light final block if needed.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make 132 Starburst Squares, weaving in the ends as you go.
  2. Block every square to 8 by 8 inches and let it dry completely.
  3. Lay out the squares in 12 rows of 11 as shown in the Layout and Joining section and take a photo so you can keep track.
  4. With navy, join the 11 squares of each row into a strip with the slip stitch seam, then join the 12 strips together with long seams worked the same way.
  5. Work the 4 Border rounds around the whole bed cover, weave in all remaining ends and give the cover a light final block.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Working the squaring round in the wrong spaces. The first navy round turns the round starburst into a square, and it only works if every point gets the right stitch. Each side uses four of the ch-1 points: a corner with treble crochet, then double crochet, half double crochet and double crochet. If you put treble crochet in the wrong point or skip a point, the square comes out lopsided or one side bulges. Before you join the navy, count the 16 points and place a marker in every fourth one to show where the corners go.

Letting the starburst ruffle or cup. Round 2 doubles the stitches, and Round 3 adds points, so the center grows fast. If your tension is loose, the starburst ruffles like a frilly edge; if it is tight, it cups up like a bowl. Either way, the navy rounds will not lie flat around it. Keep your stitches even and lay the starburst flat on the table after Round 3. It should lie flat with the points spread evenly. If it ruffles, try a smaller hook for the white rounds only.

Letting the squares come out in different sizes. With 132 squares, tension drifts over the weeks, especially when you are tired or crocheting while you talk. A square that is a quarter inch smaller does not look like much, but across a row of 11 squares the seams pucker and the bursts stop lining up. Keep your first blocked square as a measuring square and check every new square against it. If a square is more than a quarter inch off, redo the last round or two with a different hook.

Pulling the joining seams too tight. A tight slip stitch seam is shorter than the square edges, so the bed cover puckers along each line and will not lie flat over the mattress. This happens most when you work quickly or hold the squares too firmly. Keep each slip stitch as loose as the stitches of the square, and go up one hook size for joining if you need to. Join the squares of each row into strips first, then join the strips. After every long seam, lay the cover flat and check that it lies smooth.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves turning simple squares into heirloom bed covers and cozy pieces for the home.



Important Notes

Gauge and square size: The white starburst, Rounds 1 to 3, should measure about 4 inches across, and each finished, blocked square should be about 8 inches. Every square must match the others, so make one square, block it and measure it before you start the rest. If it is larger, try a 4.5 mm hook, and if it is smaller, try a 5.5 mm hook. Sizes and yarn amounts are estimates from the photo, so trust your own measuring square.

Blocking: Pin each square to 8 by 8 inches on blocking mats with rust-proof pins. For acrylic, hold a steam iron a few inches above the square without touching it, then let it cool and dry completely before you unpin it. For cotton or wool blends, mist lightly with water and let it dry. Blocking sharpens the corners, spreads the white points evenly and makes the navy seams straight and easy.

Yarn amounts and dye lots: For the queen size you need about 3,200 grams of navy and about 1,250 grams of white in worsted weight yarn, including the joining and the border. These numbers depend on your tension. Buy all of each color at the same time and check that the dye lot numbers match. Navy can shift toward black or toward bright blue from one lot to the next, and a different lot shows up clearly on a bed cover this big.

Washing and drying: Follow your yarn label first. Most acrylic bed covers can be machine washed on a gentle cycle in cool water inside a large mesh bag, then dried flat or tumbled on low. Navy dye can bleed onto bright white, so add a color catcher sheet to every wash, especially the first few, and never use bleach. Wash wool blends by hand in cool water. Never hang the cover wet, since the water will stretch it.


Every time I make this bed, I think about where it began: one white magic ring and a little burst of points that grew in my hands. Nothing in it is hard. It is just one crisp square, made again and again, until a whole bed is covered in bright white stars on navy. I hope you enjoy every round of it as much as I did, and that it brings a calm, classic feeling into your home.

So wind a ball of navy and a ball of white, and make one square today. Do not think about all 132 yet. Make one, then another, and soon your basket will be full of little bursts waiting to become something your family will love for years. Please share your first starburst square with me. Happy crocheting, my friend.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sl st — slip stitch
03 sc — single crochet
04 hdc — half double crochet
05 dc — double crochet
06 tr — treble crochet
07 sp — space
08 st(s) — stitch(es)
09 Rnd — round
10 rep — repeat
11 sk — skip
12 BLO — back loop only

You Ask, We Answer

How big is the finished bed cover?

The queen size in this pattern measures about 91 by 99 inches with the border. It is made from 132 squares in a grid of 11 squares across and 12 squares down, and each blocked square is about 8 inches. The joined center is about 88 by 96 inches, and the four border rounds add about 1.5 inches on every side. On a standard queen mattress, which is 60 by 80 inches, that leaves about 15 inches to drape down each side and enough length to tuck under the pillows. If you want the cover to reach the floor on a tall bed, add one more column of squares. Your own size may be a little different, because everyone crochets with a slightly different tension. Measure your first blocked square, multiply it by your grid, and adjust the number of squares before you buy all of your yarn.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make a different size?

Yes, and the square makes it simple. The stitches stay the same, and only the size of each square changes. In DK yarn with a 4.0 mm hook, a square is about 6.5 inches, so a queen needs about 14 across by 15 down. In bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook, a square is about 10 inches, so a queen needs about 9 across by 10 down. For other beds in worsted yarn, use 8 squares across for a twin, 10 for a full, 11 for a queen and 13 for a king, all 12 squares down. A sofa throw is 6 across by 8 down, and a baby blanket is 4 by 5. Whatever you choose, make one square, block it and measure it, then multiply by your grid to see the finished size. Weigh that first square too, so you can work out how much yarn of each color you need.

How do I wash and care for the bed cover?

Always start with your yarn label, because care depends on the fiber. Acrylic is the easiest choice for a bed cover. Wash it on a gentle cycle in cool water inside a large mesh laundry bag or a pillowcase tied shut. Add a color catcher sheet to every wash, because navy dye can bleed onto the white bursts, especially in the first few washes. Never use bleach, even on the white parts. Dry it flat on towels or tumble it on the lowest heat. For cotton or wool blends, wash by hand in cool water, press out the water without wringing, roll the cover in towels and lay it flat to dry. Never hang it wet. Between washes, shake it outside and air it in the shade, since strong sun can fade navy over time. Store it loosely folded in a cotton bag rather than plastic.