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Ecru Filet Window Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Ecru Filet Window Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
220-250 Hours 0 made this
Intermediate Level

You need basic filet mesh, double crochet shells and a simple join-as-you-go method in the last round.

About 235 Hours

Each square takes about an hour, so one square a day becomes a full bed cover in around seven months.

Little Lace Windows

Every square opens into a tiny grid window, so the whole bed looks like rows of sunny cottage panes.

About This Ecru Filet Window Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This ecru bed cover is made from small lace squares that each look like a little window. In the center of every square sits an open grid of four by four boxes, like the panes of an old cottage window. Around the grid is a solid frame, then a ring of small round eyelets, and finally a pretty scalloped edge made of shells. The squares are joined at the tips of their scallops, so the whole bed cover becomes an airy lace with a soft scalloped edge along every side. In natural ecru cotton, it feels warm, timeless and gently vintage.

Each square starts in rows, not rounds. You make a short chain and work four rows of classic filet mesh, with double crochet posts and chain spaces between them. That gives you the open grid window right away. Then you turn and work around the outside of the grid in rounds. A round of single crochet wraps all four sides and turns the grid into a neat square. Two solid rounds of half double crochet and double crochet build the frame, which gives the square its strength and makes the grid stand out even more.

The outer part of the square is where the lace becomes playful. A round of chain loops sits over the frame, and in the next round each loop is filled with a shell of seven double crochet. Under every shell, a small round hole stays open, and those holes create the ring of eyelets you see in the photo. The corners get bigger shells of eleven double crochet, so the scallops turn the corners smoothly. The final round of single crochet outlines every shell, and that is the round where you join each new square to its neighbors.

The finished bed cover measures about 98 by 105 inches. That is 14 squares across and 15 squares down, which makes 210 squares, each about 7 inches from the center of one seam to the next. On a queen bed, it covers the top and drops about 19 inches on each side and about 25 inches at the foot, with the scallops reaching toward the floor. I used DK weight matte cotton with a 3.5 mm hook. That lighter yarn gives crisp grid windows and dainty shells. The section on switching things up gives square counts for other beds, a throw, a baby blanket and pillows.

The finished cover has a soft, light drape and a lovely weight that settles over the bed without feeling heavy. The open grids and eyelets let air flow through, so it is cool in summer and pretty layered over a blanket in winter. Ecru is a natural, warm shade that suits rattan furniture, wood floors and linen curtains, and it gives any bedroom a calm farmhouse or cottage feel. When sunlight comes through the window, the grid windows cast tiny squares of light across the bed, which is one of my favorite things about it.

This pattern suits an intermediate crocheter who knows basic filet mesh and is comfortable with shells and joining as you go. The stitches are all simple, but you will switch from working in rows to working in rounds in each square, so it helps to read the pattern once before you start. After a few squares, the steps become automatic. Since you use only one color, there are very few ends to weave in. Every square is small and light, so it is easy to carry with you, and your basket of little windows will fill up faster than you expect.

Ecru Filet Window Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Ecru Filet Window Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love this bed cover because every square feels like a tiny house window. When I finish the grid and work the first round around it, I always think of the cottage windows in old storybooks, with lace curtains and flower boxes. Making two hundred of those little windows felt like building a whole village, one square at a time. I kept my finished squares in a wicker basket, and every evening I added one more and smiled at the growing stack.

Filet crochet has a special place in my heart. My first lace project years ago was a small filet doily, and I was amazed that simple chains and double crochet could make something so delicate. This pattern brings back that feeling. The grid is quick and easy, and then the shells and eyelets turn it into something lacy and graceful. It is a gentle way to enjoy lace without the stress of tiny thread or complicated charts. DK cotton is easy on the hands and the stitches are clear to see.

I also love how natural ecru looks in a bedroom. It is softer than white and warmer than grey, and it goes with almost everything: wood, rattan, linen, plants and warm lamp light. The whole room feels calmer when this cover is on the bed. It never looks too busy, because the design comes from the texture and the openings, not from color. And because it is one shade, it is easy to add to over the years, making matching pillow covers or a throw whenever I like.

  • Small squares that work up in about an hour.
  • One color only, with very few ends to weave in.
  • Joined as you go at the scallop tips, with no sewing.
  • A classic lace look that suits any bedroom.

This cover also changes a room more than you might expect. Before I made it, my guest bed looked plain under a store-bought quilt. Now it looks like a room in a country inn, and guests always reach out to touch the scallops. A handmade lace bed cover tells people that someone took the time to make the space beautiful. It feels like an heirloom from the first day, and I know it will be passed down and loved long after me.

Making this cover taught me a lot about consistency. I learned to keep my filet posts the same height so every grid is square. I learned to count my shells and check every corner before joining. And I learned that joining as you go makes a big project feel lighter, because you never face a mountain of seams at the end. If you want a long, calm lace project that grows one little window at a time, I think you will love this one.


Switch Things Up

The first change to try is the color. Ecru is classic, but this lace looks beautiful in any soft solid shade. Pure white feels bright and crisp, like a seaside cottage. Soft sage green brings a garden feel, and pale blush pink looks romantic and vintage. A warm oatmeal or light taupe gives a cozy, earthy farmhouse look. For a bolder touch, you can work the filet grid and frame in one color and the eyelet and shell rounds in a second, lighter color, so each window is outlined in a soft contrast.

You can make this bed cover for any bed size by changing the number of squares. Each square is about 7 inches from seam to seam, so divide your bed width and length, including the drop, by 7. Here are the counts I use:

  • Twin: 11 by 14 squares, 154 squares, about 77 by 98 inches.
  • Full: 13 by 14 squares, 182 squares, about 91 by 98 inches.
  • Queen: 14 by 15 squares, 210 squares, about 98 by 105 inches.
  • King: 16 by 15 squares, 240 squares, about 112 by 105 inches.

For a sofa throw, join 7 squares across and 9 squares down. That is 63 squares and finishes at about 49 by 63 inches. A throw is a wonderful way to try the pattern before you start a full bed cover. It looks lovely draped over a chair or folded at the end of a bed, and it makes a thoughtful gift for a wedding or a new home. If you make a square most evenings, you can finish a throw in about two months.

A baby blanket is sweet in this lace too. Join 5 squares across and 5 down for 25 squares, about 35 inches square. Use a soft cotton or cotton blend in white, ecru or a pale pastel. Because of the open grid windows and eyelets, I see this as a christening blanket or a decorative crib rail blanket that a grown-up keeps an eye on. Lace baby blankets are often kept for generations, so it becomes a treasured family keepsake.

You can also change the size of the window. For a bigger grid, work 5 rows of 5 open meshes instead of 4, and add one extra chain loop and shell on each side of the scallop round. For a tiny window, work 3 by 3 meshes for a more solid square. You could even fill the four corner boxes of the grid with solid double crochet to make a little cross in the window. Make one test square of any change to check the size before you plan your layout.

To make matching pillow covers, join 3 squares across and 4 squares down for a panel about 21 by 28 inches, which fits a standard pillow. Make two panels and join them on three sides by working through the scallop joins, slip in the pillow and close the last side. Use a pillow insert in ecru or a soft natural linen color so the grid windows show a matching shade. Matching lace pillows make the whole bed look planned and finished.

Finally, try a different yarn weight. In fine sport weight cotton with a 3 mm hook, each square is about 6 inches, so a queen needs about 16 by 18 squares and the lace looks even more delicate. In worsted weight cotton with a 4.5 mm hook, a square grows to about 9 inches, and a queen needs only about 11 by 12 squares. Worsted gives a chunkier, cozier lace that works up faster. Always make one test square in your chosen yarn and block it before you buy all of your yarn.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 DK weight (3) matte cotton yarn in natural ecru: about 3,300 g (about 7,900 yards) for the queen size, covering 210 squares (about 15 g each) and about 120 g for the border
02 Buy about 10 percent extra from the same dye lot for swatching and repairs

— Tools Required

03 3.5 mm (US E-4) crochet hook
04 Yarn needle for weaving in ends
05 Stitch markers
06 Sharp scissors
07 Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
08 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 220-250 Hours

0% complete

— Filet Window Square (Make 210, ecru) :

Make one test square and block it. It should measure about 7 inches from the center of one scallop edge to the center of the opposite edge. If it is larger, go down a hook size; if smaller, go up a hook size.
Foundation: Ch 17. (17 ch)
Row 1: Dc in 8th ch from hook, (ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch) 3 times. (5 dc counting the turning ch, 4 ch-2 sps)
Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), turn, sk first ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) twice, ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch. (5 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rows 3 to 4: Rep Row 2. Do not fasten off. (5 dc, 4 ch-2 sps in each row: a grid of 4 by 4 open boxes)
Rnd 1: Ch 1, now work around the grid: 3 sc in the corner st, then along each side work 3 sc in each ch-2 sp or around each row-end post and 1 sc in each dc or between row ends (15 sc), 3 sc in each corner st; continue around all 4 sides, sl st in first sc to join. (72 sc: 15 sc on each side plus 3 sc at each corner)
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), *hdc in each sc to the center sc of the next corner, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in center corner sc; rep from * around, sl st in first hdc to join. (76 hdc: 19 hdc on each side counted between corner sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Rnd 3: Sl st to first corner sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in each hdc across to next corner, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp; rep from * around, omitting the last corner, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (92 dc: 23 dc on each side counted between corner sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Rnd 4: Sl st to first corner sp, ch 1, *(sc, ch 5, sc) in corner sp, (ch 4, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc) 5 times, ch 4, sk last 3 dc of side; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. (28 sc, 24 ch-4 lps: 6 on each side, 4 ch-5 corner lps)
Rnd 5: Sl st in first ch-5 lp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 10 dc in same lp, *sl st in next sc, (7 dc in next ch-4 lp, sl st in next sc) 6 times, 11 dc in next ch-5 lp; rep from * around, omitting the last corner shell, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (212 dc: 24 side shells of 7 dc and 4 corner shells of 11 dc, 28 sl sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in each dc around, skipping every sl st between shells, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. (212 sc: 7 sc on each side shell, 11 sc on each corner shell)
Join as you go (from Square 2 on): work Rnd 6 as written, but at the center sc of each shell that touches a finished square (the 4th sc of a side shell, the 6th sc of a corner shell), drop the loop, insert the hook in the matching center sc of the finished square, pick up the dropped loop and pull it through, then work the sc. The stitch count does not change. Each side joins at its 6 side shells, matched in reverse order, and each corner shell joins into the corner join point where up to 4 squares meet.

— Layout :

The queen layout is a straight grid of 14 columns by 15 rows: 210 squares. All squares are the same, so they can face any direction.
Work row by row from the top left corner. Join each new square to the square on its left and, from the second row on, to the square above it.
Around the outside there are 54 squares with 58 open sides in total (14 on each short edge and 15 on each long edge), 54 seams along the edge and 4 cover corners.

— Border (ecru) :

Border Rnd 1: Join ecru in the 1st sc of any open side shell, ch 1, sc in same st. Work sc in each sc of every open side shell (7 sc each). At each seam along the edge, sc in the 5 outer sc of each of the two corner shells and sc2tog across their joined center sts. At each of the 4 cover corners, sc in each of the 11 sc of the corner shell, working (sc, ch 2, sc) in the 6th sc. Sl st in first sc to join. (3,078 sts: 2,436 sc on 348 side shells plus 540 sc on 108 half corner shells plus 54 sc2tog plus 48 sc at the 4 cover corners, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Border Rnd 2: Ch 1, *sc in next 3 sts, picot (ch 3, sl st in first ch); rep from * around, working (sc, picot, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. (3,086 sc and 1,030 picots: 1,026 repeats over 3,078 sts plus 8 sc and 4 picots at the corners)
For other sizes, Border Rnd 1 has 42 sc for every open side (6 shells of 7 sc), 11 sts for every seam along the edge (10 sc plus 1 sc2tog) and 12 sc at each cover corner. Adjust the picot repeat at the end of Border Rnd 2 if the total does not divide by 3.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make your first Filet Window Square completely, then block it and check that it measures about 7 inches.
  2. Work every following square with the join-as-you-go Rnd 6, linking it to the square on its left and the square above it at the center of each touching shell.
  3. Continue row by row until the grid is 14 squares across and 15 squares down.
  4. Weave in the two ends of each square as you finish it, hiding them inside the solid frame.
  5. Work Border Rounds 1 and 2 around the whole scalloped edge.
  6. Pin the bed cover flat on blocking mats with a pin in every outer scallop, mist with water and let it dry completely before unpinning.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

The most common mistake is uneven filet posts in the grid. If some double crochet stitches are taller or shorter than others, the little boxes become rectangles and the window looks crooked. This usually happens when the turning chain is pulled tight or left loose. To avoid it, keep every dc the same height and work the ch-5 turning chain at the same tension as the rest of the row. If your grid leans to one side, check that you are working the last dc into the 3rd ch of the turning chain, not the 1st or 2nd. A straight grid makes a straight square.

Another mistake is working too many or too few stitches along the row-end sides in Round 1. The top and bottom of the grid have clear chain spaces and posts to work into, but the two row-end sides do not. If you guess, one pair of sides ends up with 13 or 17 sc instead of 15, and the frame twists. Work 3 sc around each row-end post and 1 sc between rows on every row-end side, so every side has exactly 15 sc. Place a stitch marker in each corner so you can count each side easily before you join.

Many makers miscount the loops in Round 4, so the shells do not line up from square to square. Each side must have exactly 6 ch-4 loops between the corner loops, and every loop must skip exactly 3 dc. If one side has 5 or 7 loops, its shells will not meet the shells of the neighboring square, and the joining round will pull and pucker. Count the loops on each side before you start Round 5. If one side is off, pull it back to the corner and redo it. Matching sides are the secret to a flat bed cover.

The last common mistake is joining at the wrong stitch in Round 6, so the scallops twist or the corners bunch up. Each side shell joins only at its 4th sc, and each corner shell joins at its 6th sc. If you join one stitch early or late, the neighboring shell tilts, and after a few squares the whole row starts to drift. Before you work Round 6, place a stitch marker in the center stitch of each shell on the finished square. Then you only need to match marker to marker. If a join looks wrong, undo it right away and rejoin.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves turning simple filet and lace squares into cozy heirloom bed covers and home pieces.



Important Notes

Gauge matters because small differences add up across 210 squares. A blocked square should measure about 7 inches from the center of one edge to the center of the opposite edge. If yours is a quarter inch larger, the bed cover will grow by more than 3 inches in each direction. Make one test square and block it before you buy all of your yarn. Compare new squares with your first one every few weeks, because tension often loosens during a long project.

Blocking opens the grid windows, rounds out the eyelets and makes the scallops crisp. After joining, pin the bed cover flat on blocking mats, placing a pin in each outer scallop so the edge is even. Gently pull each grid square open with your fingers while the cover is damp. Mist with cool water and let it dry completely before removing the pins. Cotton holds its blocked shape well, so you will rarely need to block it again.

The yarn amount is for the queen size in DK weight cotton, so adjust it for other sizes or yarns. With a single natural color, dye lots matter, because ecru can range from cool cream to warm beige between lots. Buy all of your yarn from the same dye lot at once, plus about 10 percent extra. If you must use two lots, alternate squares from both lots in a checkerboard so any small difference is spread evenly across the bed.

Wash the bed cover by hand or on a gentle cold cycle inside a large mesh laundry bag to protect the lace. Use a mild detergent and no bleach, because bleach can yellow natural cotton and weaken the fibers. Do not hang the cover to dry, because wet cotton is heavy and will stretch the grids and scallops. Lay it flat on towels, gently shape the squares and scallops with your hands and let it dry completely before using it again.


I hope this ecru filet window bed cover brings a little cottage charm into your bedroom. It is a big project, but every square is a small, peaceful hour with a hook and soft cotton. Take your time with the grid, enjoy the shells as they curl around each corner and watch your basket of little windows grow.

You do not have to think about all 210 squares today. Just make your foundation chain and work one small grid. Then finish one square. Tomorrow, make another and join it to the first. Before long, you will see a whole bed of lace windows taking shape on your lap. Happy crocheting, my friend.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sc — single crochet
03 hdc — half double crochet
04 dc — double crochet
05 sc2tog — single crochet 2 together
06 picot — ch 3, sl st in first ch
07 sl st — slip stitch
08 beg — beginning
09 sk — skip
10 st(s) — stitch(es)
11 lp(s) — loop(s)
12 sp(s) — space(s)
13 rep — repeat
14 Rnd — round

You Ask, We Answer

What is the finished size of this bed cover?

The queen version finishes at about 98 by 105 inches after blocking. That is 14 squares across and 15 squares down, with each square measuring about 7 inches from the center of one scallop edge to the center of the opposite edge. On a standard queen mattress, the cover lies across the top and drops about 19 inches on each side and about 25 inches at the foot, so the scallops reach toward the floor on most bed frames. If your bed is taller or you want a longer drop, add one more square to each row and column. If you prefer a coverlet that stops at the side of the mattress, use the full layout of 13 by 14 squares. Measure your own bed, including the mattress and frame height, and divide by your blocked square size before buying your yarn.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make a different size?

Yes, this pattern works in many yarn weights because the square is the same in every size. In fine sport weight cotton with a 3 mm hook, each square is about 6 inches, and in worsted weight cotton with a 4.5 mm hook it grows to about 9 inches. The stitch counts never change, only the square size and the number of squares you need. Make one test square in your chosen yarn, block it, measure it and divide your bed size by that number. The section on switching things up lists square counts for twin, full, queen, king, a throw, a baby blanket and pillows. For the border, count 42 sc for every open side, 11 stitches for every seam along the edge and 12 sc for each cover corner, then adjust the picot repeat so it divides evenly around your total.

How do I wash and care for this crochet bed cover?

Wash it by hand in cool water or on a gentle cold cycle inside a large mesh laundry bag to protect the grid windows and scallops. Use a mild detergent and never use bleach, because it can yellow natural ecru cotton and weaken the fibers over time. Do not wring or twist the cover. Gently press out the water, then lay it flat on clean towels and shape the squares, grids and scallops with your hands. Let it dry completely before putting it back on the bed. Never hang it while wet, because the weight of the wet cotton will stretch the lace and pull the scallops out of shape. Between seasons, fold it loosely and store it in a breathable cotton bag, away from direct sunlight, so the natural color stays soft and even for many years.