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Red and Cream Flower Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Red and Cream Flower Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
200-260 Hours 0 made this
Advanced Level

Filet mesh, two color blocks, lace fans and small appliques in one project.

Square by Square

Each 14 inch square takes about 4 hours, so the cover grows in small, happy steps.

A Showpiece Cover

Raised red flowers on cream lace make your bed the star of the room.

About This Red and Cream Flower Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bed cover is made from 49 square motifs. Each one has a cream filet mesh center with a raised red puff flower, a cream center and four olive green leaves sewn on top. A red and cream checkerboard border frames the mesh, and a wide cream lace fan edge finishes every square.

The squares are joined at the tips of the lace fans. The finished cover is about 100 by 100 inches, so it reaches the floor on a queen bed. It suits confident crocheters who enjoy colorwork and lace and want a true heirloom piece.

Red and Cream Flower Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Red and Cream Flower Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love a big project that I can finish in small pieces. Each square is a little project of its own, with the flower, the mesh, the checkerboard and the lace, so I never get bored.

I also love how the red petals pop against the cream lace. It feels like something from a grandmother's cedar chest, and it will last just as long.

Red and Cream Flower Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step 1 - construction progress

Switch Things Up

Try burgundy and ivory, navy and white, or a soft pink and cream palette. For a sofa throw, make 4 x 5 squares (about 58 x 72 inches). Use a single square and a plain back panel for a pillow cover. For a holiday version, make the leaves in a brighter green and add a tiny gold bead to each flower center.

Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (4) cotton yarn in cream: about 5,300 g (about 10,600 yd) for 49 squares and the joining.
02 Same yarn in deep red: about 1,600 g (about 3,200 yd).
03 Same yarn in olive green: about 300 g (about 600 yd).
04 Per square: about 105 g cream, 32 g red and 6 g green. Weigh your first finished square and multiply by 49 before you buy the rest.
05 Buy each color from one dye lot and add about 10 percent extra.

— Tools Required

06 4.0 mm (US G-6) crochet hook for the squares and leaves
07 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook for the flowers (gives bigger, puffier petals)
08 Yarn needle
09 Stitch markers
10 Scissors
11 Blocking mats and rustproof pins
12 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Advanced 200-260 Hours

0% complete

— Flower (Make 49, red) :

Use the 5.0 mm hook. Join every round with a sl st to the first st of the round. The flower measures about 4.5 inches across.
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, 8 sc in the ring. Pull the ring tight and join. (8 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join. (16 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1. *(Sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in the next st, sl st in the next st. Rep from * 7 more times. Join and fasten off. (8 petals of 7 sts each, plus 8 sl st: 64 sts)

— Flower Center (Make 49, cream) :

Use the 5.0 mm hook.
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, 6 sc in the ring. Join. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (12 sc)

— Leaf (Make 196, olive green) :

Use the 4.0 mm hook. You need 4 leaves for each square.
Leaf: Ch 10. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc. Work 3 sc in the last ch (the first ch you made). Turn to the other side of the chain and work: sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, sl st. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (19 sts: 7 sc, 4 hdc, 6 dc, 2 sl st)

— Filet Center (Make 49, cream) :

Use the 4.0 mm hook. Ch 3 at the start of a round counts as a dc. Every round grows by 2 spaces on each side.
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3, ch 2, dc in the ring (first corner made), ch 1. *(Dc, ch 2, dc) in the ring, ch 1. Rep from * 2 more times. Join with sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3. (8 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps, 4 ch-1 sps)
Round 2: Sl st into the first corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Ch 1, dc in the next dc, ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * 2 more times. Ch 1, dc in the next dc, ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc, ch 1. Join with sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3. (16 dc, 12 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps; 3 spaces on each side)
Round 3: Sl st into the first corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Ch 1, dc in the next dc, [ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc] 3 times, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * 2 more times. Ch 1, dc in the next dc, [ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc] 3 times, ch 1. Join with sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3. (24 dc, 20 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps; 5 spaces on each side)
Round 4: Sl st into the first corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Ch 1, dc in the next dc, [ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc] 5 times, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * 2 more times. Ch 1, dc in the next dc, [ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc] 5 times, ch 1. Join with sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3. (32 dc, 28 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps; 7 spaces on each side)
Round 5: Sl st into the first corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Ch 1, dc in the next dc, [ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc] 7 times, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * 2 more times. Ch 1, dc in the next dc, [ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc] 7 times, ch 1. Join with sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3. (40 dc, 36 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps; 9 spaces on each side)
Round 6: Sl st into the first corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Ch 1, dc in the next dc, [ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc] 9 times, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * 2 more times. Ch 1, dc in the next dc, [ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc] 9 times, ch 1. Join with sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3. (48 dc, 44 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps; 11 spaces on each side)
Round 7: Sl st into the first corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, ch 2, dc in the same sp. *Ch 1, dc in the next dc, [ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc] 11 times, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * 2 more times. Ch 1, dc in the next dc, [ch 1, sk the next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc] 11 times, ch 1. Join with sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 and fasten off. (56 dc, 52 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps; 13 spaces on each side, 27 sts between the corner ch-2 sps)

— Checkerboard Border (Make 49, red and cream) :

Use the 4.0 mm hook. Work in blocks of 3 dc. Change color in the last yarn over of the last dc of each block. Carry the unused color along the top of the previous round and crochet over it, loosely. The 4 corners are always red.
Round C1: Join red in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the same sp (red corner). *Across the side, work dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp in 9 blocks of 3 dc, changing color for each block: cream, red, cream, red, cream, red, cream, red, cream (27 dc). Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in red in the next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * 2 more times, then work the 9 blocks across the last side. Change to red and join with sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (132 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps; 33 dc on each side counting the 3 red dc at each end: 11 blocks)
Round C2: Sl st in each of the next 2 dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the same sp (red corner). *Dc in each of the next 33 dc in 11 blocks of 3, changing color for each block: cream, red, cream, red, cream, red, cream, red, cream, red, cream. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in red in the next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * 2 more times, then work the 11 blocks across the last side. Change to red and join with sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (156 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps; 39 dc on each side: 13 blocks)
Round C3: Sl st in each of the next 2 dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the same sp (red corner). *Dc in each of the next 39 dc in 13 blocks of 3, changing color for each block: cream, red, cream, red, cream, red, cream, red, cream, red, cream, red, cream. Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in red in the next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * 2 more times, then work the 13 blocks across the last side. Change to red, join with sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 and fasten off. (180 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps; 45 dc on each side: 15 blocks)

— Lace Border (Make 49, cream) :

Use the 4.0 mm hook. Each side of the finished square carries 16 fans, so neighboring squares always match.
Round L1: Join cream in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, 3 sc in the same sp. *Sc in each of the next 45 dc, 3 sc in the next corner ch-2 sp. Rep from * 2 more times. Sc in each of the next 45 dc. Join with sl st to the first sc. (192 sc: 45 on each side, plus 3 in each corner)
Round L2: Sl st in the next sc (the center sc of the corner). *Ch 5, sk 2 sc, sc in the next sc. Rep from * 62 more times. Ch 5, sk 2 sc, sl st in the corner center sc where you began. (64 ch-5 arches, 16 on each side, a corner center sc between every 16 arches)
Round L3: Ch 3 (counts as dc) and 6 dc in the first ch-5 arch, sl st in the next sc. *7 dc in the next ch-5 arch, sl st in the next sc. Rep from * 62 more times. Do not fasten off. (64 fans of 7 dc, 448 dc, 64 sl st)
Round L4: Sc in the first dc of the first fan, [ch 3, sc in the next dc] 6 times. Sk the sl st between fans. *Sc in the first dc of the next fan, [ch 3, sc in the next dc] 6 times, sk the sl st. Rep from * 62 more times. Join with sl st to the first sc and fasten off. (448 sc, 384 ch-3 loops)
Block each finished square to about 14.5 inches across the tips of the fans. Check that every side has 16 fans.

— Layout and Joining :

Arrange the squares in 7 columns and 7 rows (49 squares). Sew the 4 leaves and the cream center onto each flower, then sew the flower onto the filet center of its square, with the leaves at the 4 corners.
Place two squares side by side with the fans facing each other and match the 16 fans on one edge with the 16 fans on the neighbor. With cream yarn and a yarn needle, whip stitch the fans together through the center dc (the 4th dc) of each fan pair and through each sl st between fans (17 joining points on every side, including the corner connector).
Join 7 squares into a strip (6 seams) and make 7 strips. Join the 7 strips with 6 long seams. At each four-square crossing, stitch the 4 corner connectors together with a few firm stitches.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make 49 flowers, 49 flower centers, 196 leaves and 49 filet centers, then add the checkerboard border and the lace border to every filet center.
  2. Sew the 4 leaves and the cream center to each flower, then sew each flower onto the filet center of its square.
  3. Wet block every square to about 14.5 inches across the fan tips and let them dry flat.
  4. Lay out 7 columns and 7 rows and check that every flower sits the same way.
  5. Join 7 squares into a strip by whip stitching the fans together, and make 7 strips.
  6. Join the 7 strips with 6 long seams, stitching the corner connectors together at every four-square crossing.
  7. Weave in all ends, then give the whole cover a light final block.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Losing count in the checkerboard rounds breaks the pattern. Count the blocks on every side: 11 in Round C1, 13 in Round C2 and 15 in Round C3, with red corners every time.

Carrying the unused color too tightly puckers the border. Lay it loosely along the top of the stitches and work over it.

Squares of different sizes make the fans miss each other. Block every square the same and check for 16 fans on each side.

Sewing the flower on crooked is easy to do. Pin the flower and all 4 leaves before you stitch.

Denise

Denise designs cozy, easy to follow crochet patterns for the home, from small gifts to full bedspreads.

Important Notes

Gauge: the 7 filet rounds measure about 7 inches across, the border squares about 12 inches at Round L1, and the finished square about 14.5 inches with the lace.

Yarn amounts are estimates. Weigh your first square and multiply by 49 before you buy the rest.

Red cotton can bleed. Wash a swatch of the red and cream together first, and use a color catcher for the first wash of the finished cover. The finished cover is heavy, so dry it flat and support the whole weight.

Take it one square at a time and enjoy every flower. I would love to see your bed cover when it is done.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sl st — slip stitch
03 sc — single crochet
04 hdc — half double crochet
05 dc — double crochet
06 sp — space
07 st(s) — stitch(es)
08 sk — skip
09 rep — repeat

You Ask, We Answer

How big is the finished bed cover?

Each square is about 14.5 inches, so 7 x 7 squares make a cover of about 100 x 100 inches. That reaches the floor on a queen bed. For a shorter drop, make 6 x 7 squares (about 87 x 100 inches).

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes. A lighter cotton makes smaller squares, so you will need more of them for the same size. Swatch one full square first and recalculate the number of squares from its size.

How do I wash and care for the cover?

Test the red for bleeding first. Then wash the cover gently in cold water with a color catcher, or hand wash it, and dry it flat. Never hang it wet, because the weight of the cotton can stretch the lace.