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Red and Cream Sunburst Flower Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Red and Cream Sunburst Flower Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
160-190 Hours 2 made this
Intermediate Level

Doily-style spoke rounds, a squaring round, a layered flower and a counted scalloped edge.

About 160 to 190 Hours

Each square and flower take about two hours, made in small, satisfying pieces.

Doilies Turned Into a Quilt

Each square looks like a little sunburst doily with a bright red flower at its heart.

About This Red and Cream Sunburst Flower Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bed cover looks like a collection of grandmother's doilies sewn together into a quilt. Every square is a cream sunburst of fine lace, with spokes of treble crochet radiating out from the center like rays of light and rounds of open mesh around them. In the middle of each sunburst sits a layered flower with a deep red center, a ring of round white petals, a ring of burgundy petals and a ring of bright red petals. Each square is framed in red, joined with red seams and finished with a scalloped edge in red and cream.

The square begins like a doily. A small ring of double crochet opens into a round of treble crochet spokes with chain spaces between them, then a second round of longer spaces and a third round where each spoke splits into two. That gives the fine, radiating sunburst you see behind every flower. A squaring round then turns the circle into a square, using taller stitches in the corners and shorter ones in the middle of each side, so the shape becomes perfectly square without pulling the spokes out of line.

Three more cream rounds frame the sunburst: an open mesh round, a solid round of double crochet and a second mesh round, which echoes the lace of the center. Then two red rounds, single crochet and half double crochet, make a crisp frame with 35 stitches on each side. The finished square measures about 9.5 inches. The red frames are what turn a pretty doily into a bold quilt block, and when the squares are joined, the frames line up into a red grid across the whole bed.

The flowers are made separately and sewn on, which keeps the sunburst flat and the flower lifted. Each flower has seven rounds and uses the front and back loop method to build its layers. The petal rounds go into the front loops and fold forward, and the base rounds go into the back loops behind them, ready for the next ring of petals. The result is a round, full flower about 4.5 inches across, with three rings of petals standing up from the lace.

The queen size uses 72 squares in 8 columns and 9 rows and 72 flowers. The squares are joined with a red whipstitch through the back loops. The border has four rounds: red single crochet, cream shells, a red round outlining every shell and a cream round with a picot at the top of each scallop. The finished cover measures about 79 by 88 inches. The counts work out evenly for any number of squares.

The stitches are chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, treble crochet and double treble crochet. What makes this pattern intermediate is the squaring round, with its mix of stitch heights, and the layered flower. I give the count at the end of every round, and each round is short, so it is easy to check your work and fix a mistake before it grows.

The finished cover is light, lacy and joyful. The fine cream spokes look delicate and old-fashioned, and the bright red flowers and frames make the whole cover sing. It looks wonderful at Christmas, of course, but just as lovely in summer with white curtains and fresh flowers. Red and cream suit a cottage bedroom, a farmhouse guest room or any space where you want a cheerful, welcoming heirloom on the bed.

Red and Cream Sunburst Flower Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Red and Cream Sunburst Flower Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I have always loved doilies. My grandmother had them on every table, under every lamp and on the back of every armchair, and I spent hours as a child tracing their lacy spokes with my finger. This bed cover is my love letter to those doilies. Each square starts just like one, with a little ring and a burst of spokes, and when I hold a finished sunburst up to the window, I can almost see her living room again.

I love the first rounds of every square. The spokes grow so quickly, and each round opens the lace a little more. Then the squaring round comes, and the circle turns into a square right in your hands. I never get tired of that moment. It feels like a small piece of crochet magic, and it is surprisingly easy once you follow the order of the stitches: tall in the corners, short in the middle.

The flowers are pure joy to make. They are small, colorful and quick, about half an hour each, and they pile up in a bowl like a heap of red blossoms. I make them while watching a film in the evening, one layer at a time: the deep red center, the white petals, the burgundy ring and the bright red ring. When I lay a finished flower on a sunburst square for the first time, the square suddenly comes alive.

Here are the habits that made this project easy for me:

  • Count the spokes after Rnd 2: there should be exactly 16.
  • Place a stitch marker in each corner space during the squaring round.
  • Make all the flowers in one color order so they all match.
  • Weave in the flower ends as you change colors, not at the end.

I love the red frames and seams. Without them, the squares would blend into each other like one big lace tablecloth. With them, every sunburst sits in its own little window, like a framed picture, and the whole cover looks crisp and tailored. The red grid also connects the flowers, so the eye travels happily from one blossom to the next across the bed.

The colors feel cheerful in every season. At Christmas, the red and cream look festive and warm, with the flowers like poinsettias or holly berries. In spring and summer, they feel fresh and bright, like strawberries and cream. With white hydrangeas on the nightstand and a soft beige rug on the floor, the cover makes the bedroom feel cozy and welcoming all year long.

Finally, I love that this cover carries a story. Every square is a little doily, and together they hold the memory of all the doilies and all the hands that made them before us. If you make it, I hope it reminds you of someone you love, and I hope it becomes a treasured heirloom that tells your own story for many years to come.


Switch Things Up

Choose new flower and frame colors. The sunburst looks beautiful with many color pairs. Navy frames with blue and white flowers feel fresh and coastal, sage green frames with pink flowers look soft and romantic, and gold frames with yellow and orange flowers feel sunny. For a calm, all-neutral cover, make the frames in taupe and the flowers in cream and oatmeal. Keep the lace in a pale color so the spokes show clearly.

Make it for any bed. Each square is about 9.5 inches, and the border adds about 1.5 inches on every side. The border works for any number of squares, because each side of Border Rnd 1 always has 36 stitches per square plus 1, which divides evenly into the 6-stitch shell repeat. These sizes include the border:

  • Twin: 6 by 9 squares, 54 squares and flowers, about 60 by 88 inches
  • Full: 7 by 9 squares, 63 squares and flowers, about 69 by 88 inches
  • Queen: 8 by 9 squares, 72 squares and flowers, about 79 by 88 inches
  • King: 10 by 10 squares, 100 squares and flowers, about 98 by 98 inches

Make a sofa throw. Five columns by six rows, 30 squares, makes a throw of about 50 by 60 inches with the border. It uses less than half of the yarn and is a lovely way to try the sunburst and the layered flower before a full bed. It looks especially pretty folded over the arm of a cream sofa, and it makes a wonderful Christmas gift for someone who loves vintage lace.

Make a baby blanket. Four by four squares, 16 in all, gives a blanket of about 41 by 41 inches. For a baby, use soft pastels, such as pink and white flowers with pale pink frames, and a washable cotton blend. Close up the spokes a little by working Rnd 3 with ch 1 instead of ch 2. Sew each flower down around its outer base and tack each outer petal, so no small petal can be pulled by little fingers.

Make matching pillows and doilies. One square with the full four-round border makes a pretty pillow front of about 12.5 inches, or a small square doily for a nightstand. Six squares joined 3 by 2 make a standard sham front. A single sunburst square without the flower, edged with the border, makes a lovely lace mat under a lamp or vase, just like the doilies that inspired this cover.

Leave out the flowers. For a delicate, all-lace cover, make the squares without flowers, and work the red frames in cream too. The result looks like an antique lace bedspread, with rows of sunbursts across the bed. Or make the flowers on every other square only, for a lighter, more playful look. Lay out a few squares before you decide.

Change the edge. The red and cream scallops are bright and pretty. For a simpler finish, stop after the cream shell round and add a round of reverse single crochet. For a deeper edge, add a second round of cream shells before the red outline round, working each new shell into the center of the shell below. You could also work the whole border in red for a bold frame.

Change the yarn weight. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, each square comes out about 7.5 inches and the flowers about 3.5 inches, so a queen needs about 10 by 11 squares. In fine cotton thread with a small steel hook, the squares become true doilies, perfect for a table runner. In bulky yarn with a 6 mm hook, the squares grow to about 12 inches, so a queen needs only 6 by 7 squares.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (#4) cotton yarn in cream: about 4,100 yards (about 2,050 g) for the queen size, including the border
02 Worsted weight (#4) cotton yarn in red: about 3,100 yards (about 1,550 g) for the frames, joining, outer petals and border
03 Worsted weight (#4) cotton yarn in burgundy: about 800 yards (about 400 g) for the flower centers and middle petals
04 Worsted weight (#4) cotton yarn in white: about 250 yards (about 125 g) for the inner petals
05 Gauge: Rnds 1 to 4 of the square = about 5.7 inches across; one finished square = about 9.5 inches with 35 sts per side; one flower = about 4.5 inches across
06 Finished size: about 79 by 88 inches with the border (72 squares, 72 flowers)

— Tools Required

07 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
08 Yarn needle for sewing the flowers, joining and weaving in ends
09 Stitch markers
10 Scissors
11 Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
12 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 160-190 Hours

0% complete

— Sunburst Square (Make 72, cream and red) :

The beginning ch 3 counts as a dc, ch 4 as a tr, ch 5 as a tr and ch 1, and ch 6 as a tr and ch 2. Rnds 1 to 8 are cream; Rnds 9 and 10 are red.
Rnd 1: With cream, make a magic ring, ch 3, 15 dc in ring, pull ring closed, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (16 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 5, *tr in next dc, ch 1; rep from * 14 more times, sl st in 4th ch of beginning ch-5 to join. (16 tr spokes, 16 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: Ch 6, *tr in next tr, ch 2; rep from * 14 more times, sl st in 4th ch of beginning ch-6 to join. (16 tr spokes, 16 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 4: Ch 4, (ch 1, tr) in same st, ch 1, *(tr, ch 1, tr) in next tr, ch 1; rep from * 14 more times, sl st in top of beginning ch-4 to join. (32 tr, 32 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 5 (squaring): Sl st in next ch-1 sp. Working in the 32 ch-1 sps, with 8 sps per quarter: ch 5 (counts as dtr), (dtr, ch 3, 2 dtr) in same sp for the corner, *2 tr in next sp, 2 dc in next sp, 2 hdc in next sp, 2 sc in next sp, 2 hdc in next sp, 2 dc in next sp, 2 tr in next sp, (2 dtr, ch 3, 2 dtr) in next sp; rep from * 2 more times, then work the 7 side sps of the last side the same way, sl st in top of ch-5 to join. (72 sts, 4 ch-3 corner sps; 18 sts per side)
Rnd 6 (mesh): Sl st in next dtr and in corner sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same sp, *[ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 9 times, ch 1, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 9 times, ch 1, sl st to join. (52 dc, 40 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-3 corner sps; 13 dc and 10 ch-1 sps per side)
Rnd 7: Sl st in next dc and in corner sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in each dc and each ch-1 sp to next corner sp, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each dc and ch-1 sp to end, sl st to join. (108 dc, 4 ch-3 sps; 27 per side)
Rnd 8 (mesh): Sl st in next dc and in corner sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same sp, *[ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc] 13 times, ch 1, skip last dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, [ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc] 13 times, ch 1, sl st to join. (68 dc, 56 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-3 corner sps; 17 dc and 14 ch-1 sps per side) Fasten off cream.
Rnd 9 (red): Join red in any corner sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp, *sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp to next corner sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, sc in each st and sp to end, sl st in first sc to join. (132 sc, 4 ch-2 sps; 33 per side)
Rnd 10 (red): Sl st in corner sp, ch 2 (does not count as a st), (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in same sp, *hdc in each sc to next corner sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, hdc in each sc to end, sl st in first hdc to join. (140 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps; 35 per side) Fasten off and weave in ends.

— Layered Flower (Make 72, burgundy, white and red) :

Petal rounds are worked in the front loops only and fold forward; base rounds are worked in the back loops only behind them. The ch 1 at the start of a sc round does not count as a st.
Rnd 1 (burgundy): Make a magic ring, ch 2, 12 hdc in ring, pull ring closed, sl st in first hdc to join. (12 hdc)
Rnd 2 (white petals): Join white in FLO of any st. Working in FLO only: *sc in next st, (hdc, 2 dc, hdc) in next st; rep from * 5 more times, sl st in first sc to join. (6 petals: 30 sts) Fasten off white.
Rnd 3 (burgundy base): Fold the white petals forward. Join burgundy in the free BLO of any st of Rnd 1, ch 1, 2 sc in BLO of each st around, sl st in first sc to join. (24 sc)
Rnd 4 (burgundy petals): Working in FLO only: *sc in next st, (hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc) in next st, sc in next st; rep from * 7 more times, sl st in first sc to join. (8 petals: 56 sts) Fasten off burgundy.
Rnd 5 (red base): Fold the burgundy petals forward. Join red in the free BLO of any st of Rnd 3, ch 1, working in BLO of Rnd 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 11 more times, sl st in first sc to join. (36 sc)
Rnd 6 (red petals): Working in FLO only: *sc in next st, (dc, tr) in next st, (tr, dc) in next st, sc in next st; rep from * 8 more times, sl st in first sc to join. (9 petals: 54 sts) Fasten off, leaving a 20 inch tail for sewing.
The finished flower should be about 4.5 inches across, with three rings of petals. The free back loops of Rnd 5 sit flat behind the red petals and are used for sewing.

— Sewing the Flowers (72 squares) :

Sewing: Center a flower on each square, covering Rnds 1 to 3. With the red tail, sew it down with small stitches through the free back loops of Rnd 5 of the flower, all the way around, so all three rings of petals stay free. Weave in the tail. (72 flowers sewn)

— Layout and Joining :

Layout: Arrange the 72 squares in 8 columns and 9 rows. (72 squares)
Join: Hold two squares RS together. With red, whipstitch through the BLO of 1 ch of the corner sp, the 35 hdc along the side and 1 ch of the next corner sp, keeping the flowers folded out of the way. Join the squares into columns of 9, then join the 8 columns side by side, matching every corner. (1 panel of 72 squares)

— Border :

Each short side is 8 squares and each long side is 9 squares. Per square you work 35 sc, plus 1 sc2tog over the 2 corner sps at every seam, plus (sc, ch 2, sc) in each outer corner, so each side has 36 sts per square plus 1. Picot: ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.
Rnd 1 (red): With RS facing, join red in any outer corner sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp, then work around: sc in each hdc, sc2tog over the 2 corner sps at each seam, and (sc, ch 2, sc) in each outer corner sp, sl st in first sc to join. (1228 sts, 4 ch-2 corner sps; 289 sts on each short side, 325 sts on each long side) Fasten off red.
Rnd 2 (cream): Join cream in any corner sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 8 dc in same sp (corner shell), *sc in next st, [skip next 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 sts, sc in next st] across to next corner sp, 9 dc in corner sp; rep from * around, ending the last side with sc in the last st before the first corner shell, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (4 corner shells of 9 dc, 204 side shells of 5 dc: 48 on each short side and 54 on each long side, 208 sc) Fasten off cream.
Rnd 3 (red): Join red in any sc between shells. Around each side shell: *sl st in next sc, sc in each of next 2 dc, 3 sc in center dc, sc in each of next 2 dc; rep from * along each side, and around each corner shell work sc in each of first 4 dc, 3 sc in center dc, sc in each of last 4 dc; sl st in first sl st to join. (1472 sc, 208 sl sts) Fasten off red.
Rnd 4 (cream): Join cream in any sl st between scallops. Around each side scallop: *sl st in next sl st, sc in each of next 3 sc, (sc, picot, sc) in center sc, sc in each of next 3 sc; rep from * along each side, and around each corner scallop work sc in each of first 5 sc, (sc, picot, sc) in center sc, sc in each of last 5 sc; sl st in first sl st to join. (1680 sc, 208 picots, 208 sl sts) Fasten off and weave in ends.
Each short side has 289 sts = 1 + (6 x 48) and each long side has 325 sts = 1 + (6 x 54), so the shells fall evenly.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make one sunburst square and one flower, check that the square is about 9.5 inches with 35 stitches per side and that the flower covers Rnds 1 to 3.
  2. Make all 72 squares and all 72 flowers.
  3. Sew a flower to the center of each square through the free back loops of Rnd 5 of the flower.
  4. Block each square gently from the back, opening the spokes and mesh without flattening the flower.
  5. Arrange the squares in 8 columns and 9 rows and whipstitch them together with red through the back loops.
  6. Work the four border rounds in red, cream, red and cream, weave in all ends and block the scallops into neat curves.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Losing a spoke in the sunburst. The sunburst depends on exactly 16 spokes in Rnds 2 and 3 and 32 in Rnd 4. If you skip a dc in Rnd 2, or forget to work the (tr, ch 1, tr) in one spoke of Rnd 4, the squaring round will not have 8 spaces in every quarter, and the corners will not fall in the right places. Count your spokes at the end of every early round. If you have 15 or 17, pull back right away, because the squaring round cannot fix a wrong count.

Mixing up the stitch heights in the squaring round. Rnd 5 turns the circle into a square by rising from sc in the middle of each side to dtr in the corners. If you work the stitches in the wrong order, or use the same height all the way around, the square comes out round, lopsided or with a bump in one side. Place a stitch marker in the corner space of each quarter before you start, and say the order quietly as you go: tr, dc, hdc, sc, hdc, dc, tr, corner. Lay the square flat afterward and check that all four corners are sharp.

Petals worked through both loops. The layered flower only works if the petal rounds go into the front loops and the base rounds go into the back loops. If you work a petal round through both loops, the next base round has nowhere to go, and the flower comes out flat, with its layers crowded together. Find the front loop carefully before each petal round, using good light and a hook with a pointed tip. After each petal round, fold the petals forward with your fingers, so the free back loops are easy to see for the next round.

Red frames that pull or ripple. The two red frame rounds can pull the lace in if you crochet them tightly, especially after the open mesh round, and then the square cups. If they are too loose, the edge ripples. Count 33 and then 35 stitches on each side, and check that the square lies flat after Rnd 10. If it cups, go up half a hook size for the red rounds only. Square frames that all match make the joining much easier and keep the red grid straight across the bed.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves vintage doilies, layered flowers and cheerful heirloom bed covers.



Important Notes

Gauge matters because 72 squares must fit together. With a 5 mm hook, the first four rounds should measure about 5.7 inches across, the finished square about 9.5 inches with 35 stitches per side and the flower about 4.5 inches across. Measure your first five squares and then one in every ten. If the spokes ruffle, tighten your chains a little; if the center cups, loosen them.

Block each square gently from the back after the flower is sewn on. Pin it face down on a towel by its edges, to 9.5 by 9.5 inches, open the spokes and mesh with your fingertips and mist it lightly. Let it dry completely. Do not press the flower flat. After the border, pin each scallop into a neat curve with the picot at the top, mist it and let it dry, so the edge hangs evenly.

The yarn amounts in the materials list are estimates for the queen size, including the joining and the border. Buy all four colors at once, from the same dye lots, and keep the labels. Reds in particular can vary between lots, and 72 red frames side by side would show any change clearly. Buy one extra skein of cream and red for safety and for future repairs.

Wash the finished cover on a gentle cold cycle in a large mesh bag or a zipped duvet cover, with mild detergent. Bright red and burgundy sit right next to cream and white, so always add a color catcher, and for the first wash you can soak the cover in cold water with a splash of vinegar. Never wring it. Lay it flat face up, open the spokes and fluff every flower while it dries.


Thank you for making this red and cream sunburst flower bed cover with me. I hope you enjoy watching each little doily grow from its ring of spokes, the clever squaring round, the bright layered flowers and the red frames that bring everything together. It is a cover full of memory and cheer, and every square adds a little more of both.

So find your cream, red, burgundy and white yarn, make your magic ring and start your first sunburst today. Add its flower, frame it in red and lay it on your bed to admire. Then make the next one, and soon you will have a joyful heirloom that brightens your bedroom for many years.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sl st — slip stitch
03 sc — single crochet
04 sc2tog — single crochet 2 together (here worked over 2 corner spaces at a seam)
05 hdc — half double crochet
06 dc — double crochet
07 tr — treble crochet
08 dtr — double treble crochet
09 picot — ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook
10 FLO — front loop only
11 BLO — back loop only
12 st(s) — stitch(es)
13 sp(s) — space(s)
14 rep — repeat
15 Rnd — round
16 RS — right side

You Ask, We Answer

How big is the finished bed cover, and how many squares do I need?

Following the pattern exactly, each square measures about 9.5 inches with 35 stitches on each side, and each flower about 4.5 inches across. The queen size uses 72 squares and 72 flowers in 8 columns and 9 rows, which makes a panel of about 76 by 85.5 inches. The border adds about 1.5 inches on every side, so the finished cover measures about 79 by 88 inches. On a standard queen mattress of 60 by 80 inches, that gives a drop of about 9 to 10 inches on each side and a little drape at the foot. For more length, add a row of squares. The border works for any number of squares, because each side always has 36 stitches per square plus 1. To plan your own size, measure your bed plus the drop you want and divide by 9.5.

Can I make the sunburst squares without the flowers, or use thread?

Yes to both. Without the flowers, the squares become pure sunburst lace, and the cover looks like an antique lace bedspread. In that case, you may want to work the red frame rounds in cream too, for a soft, all-cream look. The sunburst works beautifully in fine cotton thread with a small steel hook, where each square becomes a real doily of about 5 inches, perfect for a table runner or a dresser scarf. For a bed cover, worsted cotton is my favorite because it shows the spokes clearly and makes the cover warm enough to use. A cotton and acrylic blend is softer and lighter. DK cotton with a 4 mm hook gives squares of about 7.5 inches, and bulky yarn with a 6 mm hook gives squares of about 12 inches. Always make one square first and measure it.

How do I care for and store the bed cover so the flowers stay full?

Wash it only when it really needs it, on a gentle cold cycle in a large mesh bag with mild detergent, and always use a color catcher, because red and burgundy sit right next to cream and white. After washing, press out the water, lay the cover flat face up, open the spokes with your fingertips and fluff every flower so the petals stand up as they dry. Never use a dryer, which can flatten the flowers and shrink cotton. Between washes, shake it out gently and air it away from strong direct sunlight, which can fade red over time. To store it, fold it loosely face out, with tissue paper between the layers and a little crumpled tissue around the flowers, and keep it in a large cotton bag or box rather than plastic. Never stack heavy things on top.