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Red and White Butterfly Filet Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Red and White Butterfly Filet Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
180-210 Hours 6 made this
Intermediate Level

You need basic filet mesh, small lace wings worked in rounds and neat sewing for the butterflies.

About 195 Hours

Each square with its butterfly takes under three hours, so a few a week build into a full bed cover.

A Butterfly On Every Square

Bright white lace butterflies float on red mesh, so the whole bed looks like a flutter of wings.

About This Red and White Butterfly Filet Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This red and white bed cover is bold, joyful and full of movement. It is made from bright red filet mesh squares, and on every square sits a large white lace butterfly. Each butterfly has four lacy wings with open centers and picot outlines, a slim body and two curled antennae. The squares are framed in solid red and joined in a straight grid with raised seams, so every butterfly seems to sit in its own little window. A red scalloped shell edge finishes the cover and hangs softly over the sides of the bed. The contrast of white on red makes the butterflies stand out from across the room.

Each square is worked in two parts. The red background is simple filet mesh, worked in rows of double crochet with chain spaces between them. Every row is the same, so the mesh grows quickly and needs very little counting once you have the rhythm. When the mesh is finished, two rounds of solid stitches go all the way around it to make a sturdy frame. That frame gives each square a neat edge for joining and makes the grid look crisp and tidy on the bed.

The butterflies are made separately in white. Each butterfly has two upper wings, two lower wings and a body. The wings are worked in small rounds from a magic ring: a solid center, a round of spokes, a round of chain loops and a round of single crochet that fills the loops. The last round adds a neat outline and a little picot at the wing tip. Because the chain loops stay open in the middle, every wing has the lacy look you see in the photo. The body is a short strip of single crochet and half double crochet, with two chain antennae at the head.

The finished bed cover measures about 102 by 102 inches. That is 8 squares across and 8 squares down, which makes 64 squares and 64 butterflies, each square about 12 inches across after blocking, plus about 3 inches of border on every side. On a queen bed, the cover lies across the top and drops about 21 inches on each side and at the foot, with the scallops reaching toward the floor on most frames. I used worsted weight matte cotton with a 4.5 mm hook, which makes clear mesh and well-shaped wings.

The finished cover has a lovely weight and drape. The mesh keeps it light and breathable, while the solid frames and the butterflies add body and texture. Red and white is a classic, cheerful pairing that feels warm and happy in any season. It looks wonderful against soft green or beige walls, with natural wood and fresh flowers, and it brings a cozy, festive feeling into the room. The butterflies add a touch of whimsy that children and grown-ups both love.

This pattern suits an intermediate crocheter who knows basic filet mesh and is comfortable with small pieces worked in the round. The mesh squares are very relaxing to make, and the butterflies are quick and satisfying. Sewing the wings and body together and placing each butterfly on its square takes a little care, but it is calm work you can do in front of the television. Because the squares and butterflies are separate pieces, everything is portable, so you can carry wings in a small bag and save the squares for evenings at home.

Red and White Butterfly Filet Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Red and White Butterfly Filet Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love this bed cover because it makes me smile every time I walk into the room. There is something so happy about butterflies. They remind me of spring mornings in the garden, of chasing them across the grass as a little girl and of the hope that comes with every new season. Seeing a whole bed covered in white butterflies on bright red mesh feels like a little celebration. It is bold, cheerful and full of life.

I also love how relaxing the red squares are to make. Filet mesh has such a calm rhythm: double crochet, chain two, skip two, double crochet. I can work a few rows while chatting with my family or watching a movie, and before I know it the square is finished. The solid frame rounds feel like tying a bow on a gift. Every finished square goes on my growing stack, and I love seeing the pile of red get taller each week.

The butterflies are the fun part. Each wing takes only a few minutes, and watching the open loops form the lacy pattern is a joy. When I sew the four wings onto a body and add the little antennae, the butterfly suddenly comes to life. Laying it on a red square for the first time always makes me grin. I like to make a big batch of wings at once, then put the butterflies together on a cozy evening with a cup of tea.

  • Relaxing filet mesh squares with a simple rhythm.
  • Quick lace wings that are fun to make in batches.
  • A bold red and white look that brightens any room.
  • Small, portable pieces you can work on anywhere.

This cover also makes a wonderful gift. I made a smaller throw for my granddaughter, who loves butterflies, and she uses it on her bed every night. Grown-ups love it too, because red and white feels warm and festive, especially around the holidays. A handmade bed cover like this carries so much love. It becomes a piece the whole family remembers, and it can be passed down and treasured for many years.

Making this cover taught me a lot. I learned to keep my mesh even so every square is the same size. I learned to pin each butterfly in place before sewing, so they all sit straight and face the same way. And I learned that a simple background can make a small motif shine. If you want a bright, cheerful bed cover with a sweet design that is easy to break into small steps, I think you will love this one.


Switch Things Up

The first and easiest change is the color pairing. Red with white is bold and classic, but this design looks lovely in many combinations. Navy mesh with white butterflies feels nautical and crisp. Soft pink mesh with white butterflies is sweet for a girl's room. Sage green mesh with cream butterflies looks calm and natural. You can also reverse the colors, with white mesh and red butterflies, for a lighter look. For a playful cover, make each butterfly a different pastel color on a white background.

You can make this bed cover for any bed size by changing the number of squares. Each square is about 12 inches across after blocking, and the border adds about 3 inches on every side. Here are the counts I use:

  • Twin: 6 by 8 squares, 48 squares, about 78 by 102 inches.
  • Full: 7 by 8 squares, 56 squares, about 90 by 102 inches.
  • Queen: 8 by 8 squares, 64 squares, about 102 by 102 inches.
  • King: 9 by 8 squares, 72 squares, about 114 by 102 inches.

For a sofa throw, join 4 squares across and 5 down. That is 20 squares and 20 butterflies, and it finishes at about 54 by 66 inches with the border. A throw is a wonderful way to try the pattern before making a whole bed cover. It looks bright and cheerful draped over a sofa, and it makes a lovely gift for a child or a butterfly lover. If you make two or three squares a week, you can finish a throw in about two months.

A baby blanket is very sweet in this pattern. Join 3 squares across and 3 down for 9 squares, about 42 inches square with the border. Use soft cotton in gentle colors such as pale pink mesh with white butterflies, or mint mesh with yellow butterflies. Because filet mesh is open, use it as a decorative or stroller blanket with a grown-up nearby. A butterfly baby blanket makes a meaningful shower gift that families keep long after the baby years.

You can also change the motif. The same mesh square works well with other appliques, such as a heart, a flower, a star or a little bird. You could alternate butterflies with flowers in a checkerboard for a garden look. Another idea is to scatter butterflies of different sizes across the bed, making some with smaller wings. You can also place the butterflies at different angles so they seem to fly across the cover. Lay a few out before you sew to see what you like best.

To make matching pillow covers, make one square with a butterfly for a small cushion front, or join 2 squares side by side for a standard pillow sham. Make a plain red back panel in rows of double crochet the same size, join it to the front around three sides, slip in the pillow and close the last side. Add a narrow shell edge to match the bed cover. Use a red pillow insert so the mesh shows a matching color. Matching pillows make the whole bed look planned and finished.

Finally, try a different yarn weight. In DK cotton with a 3.5 mm hook, each square is about 9.5 inches across, so a queen needs about 10 by 10 squares, and the butterflies look more delicate. In bulky yarn with a 6 mm hook, a square grows to about 15 inches, and a queen needs only about 6 by 6 squares. Make the butterflies in the same weight as the squares so they stay in proportion. Always make one test square and one butterfly in your chosen yarn before planning your layout.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (4) matte cotton yarn in bright red: about 3,200 g (about 6,400 yards) for 64 squares (about 45 g each), the seams (about 120 g) and the border (about 200 g)
02 Worsted weight (4) matte cotton yarn in white: about 800 g (about 1,600 yards) for 64 butterflies (about 12 g each)
03 Buy about 10 percent extra of each color from the same dye lot

— Tools Required

04 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
05 Yarn needle for sewing the butterflies and weaving in ends
06 Rust-proof pins for placing the butterflies
07 Stitch markers
08 Sharp scissors
09 Blocking mats
10 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 180-210 Hours

0% complete

— Filet Mesh Square (Make 64, red) :

Mesh: ch 2, sk 2, dc in next st. Ch 5 at the start of a row counts as the first dc and ch 2. Gauge: 4 meshes and 6 rows to about 3 by 4 inches. Make one test square and block it. It should measure about 12 inches across after the frame.
Foundation: Ch 53. (53 ch)
Row 1: Dc in 8th ch from hook, *ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * across. (16 meshes: 17 dc, 16 ch-2 sps)
Row 2: Ch 5, turn, sk first ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, *ch 2, dc in next dc; rep from * across, working the last dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch. (16 meshes: 17 dc, 16 ch-2 sps)
Rows 3 to 18: Rep Row 2. Do not fasten off after Row 18. (16 meshes in every row)
Rnd 1 (frame): Ch 1, rotate to work around the mesh: 3 sc in the corner st, then work 48 sc evenly along each side (about 2 sc in each ch-2 sp and 1 sc in each dc across the top and bottom, and 8 sc for every 3 row ends along the sides), working 3 sc in each corner st, sl st in first sc to join. (204 sc: 48 on each side, 3 at each corner)
Rnd 2 (frame): Sl st to the center sc of the first corner, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same st, *dc in each st across to the center sc of the next corner, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in center corner sc; rep from * around, omitting the last corner, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off. (216 dc: 54 dc on each side counted between corner sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

— Upper Wing (Make 128, white) :

Rnd 1: MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, pull ring closed, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (12 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), *dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. (12 dc, 12 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 4, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around, ending with ch 4, sl st in first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-4 lps)
Rnd 4: Sl st in first lp, ch 1, 5 sc in each of the next 5 lps, (2 dc, tr, ch 3, tr, 2 dc) in the next lp for the wing tip, 5 sc in each of the remaining 6 lps, sl st in first sc to join. (55 sc and the tip: 4 dc, 2 tr and 1 ch-3 sp)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around, working (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) in the tip ch-3 sp, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. (65 sc, 1 picot)

— Lower Wing (Make 128, white) :

Rnd 1: MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), 9 dc in ring, pull ring closed, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (10 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), *dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. (10 dc, 10 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first sc. (10 sc, 10 ch-3 lps)
Rnd 4: Sl st in first lp, ch 1, 4 sc in each of the next 4 lps, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the next lp for the wing tip, 4 sc in each of the remaining 5 lps, sl st in first sc to join. (36 sc and the tip: 4 dc and 1 ch-3 sp)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around, working (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) in the tip ch-3 sp, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. (44 sc, 1 picot)

— Butterfly Body and Antennae (Make 64, white) :

Body: Ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch for the head, hdc in each of the next 10 ch, 3 sc in last ch, working along the other side of the chain, hdc in next 10 ch, sc in last 2 ch, sl st in first sc to join. (28 sts)
Antennae: At the head, *ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch back to the body, sl st in next st of the head; rep from * once more. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. (2 antennae of 7 sl sts)
Butterfly assembly: lay the body with the head at the top. Sew an upper wing to each side of the upper half of the body, with the wing tips pointing up and out. Sew a lower wing to each side of the lower half, with the tips pointing down and out. Gently curl the antennae outward.

— Layout and Joining :

Pin one butterfly to the center of each red square, with the head pointing to the same side on every square. Sew it in place with small white stitches around the outer edge of each wing and along the body, leaving the open loops of the wings free.
The queen layout is a straight grid of 8 columns by 8 rows: 64 squares. Place every square so all the butterflies face the headboard.
Join with red: hold two squares wrong sides together so the seam ridge sits on the right side, and sc through both loops of both squares from corner sp to corner sp (56 sc per seam: 1 in each corner sp and 1 in each of the 54 dc). Join all rows first, then all columns, working right across the corners.

— Scalloped Shell Border (red) :

Border Rnd 1: Join red in any st on the outer edge, ch 1, sc in each dc around, 1 sc in each pair of joined corner sps at the seams and 3 sc in each of the 4 outer corner sps, sl st in first sc to join. (1,768 sc: 439 sc along each edge between the corners plus 3 sc at each corner)
Border Rnd 2: Sl st to the center sc of any corner, ch 3 (counts as dc), 8 dc in same st for the corner fan, *sk next sc, sc in first st of the edge, (sk 2 sts, 7 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st) 73 times, sk next sc, 9 dc in the center sc of the next corner; rep from * around, omitting the last corner fan, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (2,080 dc: 292 edge shells of 7 dc plus 4 corner fans of 9 dc, 296 sc)
Border Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc in each dc of the shell or fan, sl st in next sc; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. (2,080 sc, 296 sl sts)
For other sizes, each edge in Border Rnd 1 has (squares along the edge x 54) plus (squares minus 1) sc between the corners. Subtract 1 and divide by 6 to get the number of shells on that edge; add or skip one sc near the corner if needed so it divides evenly.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make one Filet Mesh Square and one butterfly, block the square and check that it measures about 12 inches across.
  2. Make all 64 red squares, weaving in the ends of each square as you finish it.
  3. Make 128 upper wings, 128 lower wings and 64 bodies, then sew each set of four wings to a body to make 64 butterflies.
  4. Pin a butterfly to the center of each square, all facing the same way, and sew it in place around the wing edges and body.
  5. Lay the squares out in a grid of 8 by 8 with every butterfly facing the headboard, and join them wrong sides together with single crochet, first in rows and then in columns.
  6. Work Border Rounds 1 to 3 around the whole bed cover.
  7. Block the finished bed cover flat, gently opening the butterfly wings and pinning the scallops evenly, and let it dry completely.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

The most common mistake is a slanted mesh square. If the turning chains are too loose or too tight, or the last dc of a row is worked in the wrong chain of the turning ch, the mesh leans to one side and the square turns into a diamond. Once the butterflies are sewn on, a crooked square makes the butterfly look tilted. Always work the last dc into the 3rd ch of the turning chain, and keep your ch 5 at the same tension as your other stitches. Lay the square flat after Row 6 and check that the mesh lines are straight.

Another mistake is wings that cup or ruffle. If the chain loops in Round 3 are too short, the wing curls up like a little cup. If you add extra stitches in Round 4, the edge ripples. Either way, the butterfly will not lie flat on the square. Chain at a relaxed tension in Round 3 and work exactly 5 sc in each loop of the upper wing and 4 in each loop of the lower wing. Lay each wing flat before the final round. If it cups, redo Round 3 with slightly looser chains.

Many makers sew the butterflies on at different angles or positions, so the bed looks messy when the squares are joined. A butterfly that sits a little high on one square and a little low on the next breaks the neat rows across the bed. Make a simple paper template the size of the square with the butterfly outline drawn in the center. Lay it over each square and pin the butterfly to match the template. Make sure every head points the same way. Check two finished squares side by side before sewing all of them.

The last common mistake is pulling the sewing stitches too tight, which puckers the red mesh under the butterfly. If you sew firmly, the mesh bunches up and the square no longer lies flat, and the wings lose their open lacy look. Sew with small, relaxed stitches through the outer sc round of the wings and the red mesh, and do not sew through the open wing loops. After sewing, lay the square flat and smooth it with your hand. If it puckers, unpick a few stitches and ease them until the square lies flat.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves turning simple filet squares and lace motifs into cozy heirloom bed covers and home pieces.



Important Notes

Gauge matters because small differences add up across 64 squares. A finished square with its frame should measure about 12 inches across. If yours is half an inch larger, the bed cover will grow by 4 inches in each direction. Make one test square and block it before you buy all of your yarn. Make one butterfly too, and check that it sits nicely in the center with about 1.5 inches of red mesh around the wings.

Blocking makes the mesh squares straight and even and opens the lacy wings. Block each red square flat at 12 inches before sewing on the butterfly, so the butterfly sits on a smooth surface. Pin each wing gently to open the loops, mist with cool water and let it dry. After joining and working the border, block the whole bed cover again, pinning each scallop evenly, without pressing the butterflies flat.

The yarn amounts are for the queen size in worsted weight cotton, so adjust them for other sizes or yarns. Buy all of each color from the same dye lot, plus about 10 percent extra. Red can lean orange or cherry from one lot to the next, and white can vary from bright to soft, so differences show clearly. If you must use two lots, alternate squares from both lots in a checkerboard so any change is spread evenly.

Wash the bed cover by hand or on a gentle cold cycle inside a large mesh laundry bag. Because bright red sits right next to white butterflies, always wash the cover on its own and add color catcher sheets to every wash, especially the first few. Use a mild detergent with no bleach. Never hang the cover to dry, because wet cotton is heavy and will stretch. Lay it flat on towels, shape the butterflies and let it dry completely.


I hope this red and white butterfly bed cover brings a little flutter of joy into your bedroom. It is a big project, but every square and every butterfly is a small, happy step. Enjoy the calm rhythm of the mesh, have fun making the lacy wings and watch your stack of butterflies grow.

You do not have to think about all 64 squares today. Just make one red square this evening and one butterfly tomorrow. Sew them together and hold up your first little window with its white butterfly. Before long, you will have a whole bed of wings. Happy crocheting, my friend.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sc — single crochet
03 hdc — half double crochet
04 dc — double crochet
05 tr — treble crochet
06 picot — ch 3, sl st in first ch
07 sl st — slip stitch
08 MR — magic ring
09 beg — beginning
10 sk — skip
11 st(s) — stitch(es)
12 lp(s) — loop(s)
13 sp(s) — space(s)
14 rep — repeat
15 Rnd — round

You Ask, We Answer

What is the finished size of this bed cover?

The queen version finishes at about 102 by 102 inches with the scalloped border. That is 8 squares across and 8 squares down, with each square measuring about 12 inches across after blocking, plus about 3 inches of border on every side. On a standard queen mattress, the cover lies across the top and drops about 21 inches on each side and at the foot, so the scallops reach toward the floor on most bed frames. If you prefer a shorter drop, use the full layout of 7 by 8 squares. If your bed is taller or longer, add another row of squares. Measure your own bed, including the mattress and frame height, and divide by your blocked square size before you buy yarn from one dye lot.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make a different size?

Yes, this pattern works in many yarn weights because the square and butterfly keep the same stitch counts in every size. In DK cotton with a 3.5 mm hook, each square is about 9.5 inches across, and in bulky yarn with a 6 mm hook it grows to about 15 inches. Make the butterflies in the same weight as the squares so they stay in proportion. Make one test square and one butterfly in your chosen yarn, block them and measure the square, then divide your bed size by that number. The section on switching things up lists square counts for twin, full, queen, king, a throw and a baby blanket. For the border, count 54 sc for each square along an edge plus one at each seam, then subtract 1 and divide by 6 to get the number of shells.

How do I wash and care for this crochet bed cover?

Wash it by hand in cool water or on a gentle cold cycle inside a large mesh laundry bag to protect the mesh and the butterflies. Use a mild detergent and never use bleach, because it can turn red into pink patches. Because bright red sits right beside white butterflies, always wash the cover on its own and use color catcher sheets in every wash, especially the first few times. Do not wring or twist the cover. Gently press out the water, then lay it flat on clean towels, open the butterfly wings with your fingers and smooth the scallops. Let it dry completely, away from direct sunlight, which can fade red over time. Never hang it while wet, because the weight of the wet cotton will stretch it. Between seasons, fold it loosely and store it in a breathable cotton bag.