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Royal and Sky Blue Window Granny Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern

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Royal and Sky Blue Window Granny Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern
100-130 Hours 0 made this
Beginner Friendly

Basic stitches plus one easy spike stitch, worked in short, counted rounds.

100 to 130 Hours

Each square takes under an hour, plus the joining and a picot shell edge.

Two Shades of Blue

A deep royal center and a soft sky frame make every square look like a window to summer.

About This Royal and Sky Blue Window Granny Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bedspread is made from one hundred and ten squares in two happy shades of blue: a deep royal blue and a soft, pale sky blue. Each square begins with a royal blue center full of little windows, a granny style motif with a ring of open spaces in the first round and two more openings along every side. The sky blue frame grows around it in four rounds of double crochet, with the corner spaces stacking up into a diagonal line of eyelets at each corner and one more eyelet in the middle of every side. A royal blue outline finishes the square, and in that outline round a single long spike stitch reaches down into each middle eyelet, leaving a neat royal blue dot in the center of every side.

The finished bedspread measures about 104 by 114 inches (264 by 290 cm) including the border. It is a grid of 10 squares across and 11 squares down, with each square measuring 10 inches after blocking, plus a royal blue picot shell edge. On a queen mattress that gives a drop of about 22 inches on each side and at the foot, so the scallops brush the floor and the bed underneath disappears completely. Every square is identical, so once you have made one, you know them all.

The stitches are chain, slip stitch, single crochet and double crochet, plus a spike single crochet and a simple decrease in the border. A spike stitch is simply a single crochet worked into a stitch several rounds below, so a long strand of the new color runs down over the earlier rounds. It sounds fancy, but it is one of the easiest ways to add a dot of color without changing yarn in the middle of a round. Each square has only two color changes, so you only weave in four ends.

The squares are joined with royal blue single crochet on the right side, worked through both squares at once. That makes a slim royal blue ridge between every square, and together the ridges form a crisp blue grid, like the leading in a stained glass window. Once all the seams are done, two rounds of single crochet steady the edge, a round of seven double crochet shells makes the scallops, and a final round adds a little picot to the top of every shell for a pretty, lacy finish.

In worsted weight cotton the bedspread has a lovely weight and drape, and it feels cool and smooth in summer. The royal blue centers have a little texture from the windows, while the sky blue frames lie flat and calm. Blue and blue together always feel fresh and peaceful, like a clear summer sky over the sea, or a kitchen shelf of old blue and white plates. The colors suit honey wood, white walls, jute, wicker and green plants, and they make a bedroom feel bright and airy even on a grey day.

I rate this pattern as beginner friendly. If you can make a basic granny square and count your stitches on each side, you can make this whole bedspread. The spike stitch is easy to learn, and I explain it step by step. It suits someone who enjoys repetition and wants a cheerful project to carry around in a small bag. It is a wonderful first big bedspread, and experienced makers will enjoy it as a relaxing project that almost works itself.

Royal and Sky Blue Window Granny Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Royal and Sky Blue Window Granny Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern Pattern

I grew up near the sea, and blue has always been my favorite color. When I want a project to lift my mood, I always reach for blue yarn. This bedspread started with two balls I bought on a whim, one deep royal and one pale sky, and the moment I put them side by side, I knew they belonged together. The first square I made looked like a window looking out over the ocean, and I have loved every square since.

I love the little royal blue windows in the center. They come together in just three short rounds, and when you hold the square up to the light, you can see right through them. Then the sky blue frame grows around them in calm rounds of double crochet, and the corner eyelets line up as if by magic. It is such a simple square, but it always looks crisp and clever when it is done.

My favorite little trick is the spike stitch in the last round. Just when you think the square is finished, you reach down with the royal blue into the eyelet three rounds below and pull up a long loop. It leaves a neat blue dot in the middle of every side, and it ties the outline to the center so beautifully. It is the kind of small detail that makes people lean in and ask how you did it.

Here is why this bedspread always makes me smile:

  • Two shades of blue feel fresh and happy in any season.
  • Only basic stitches and one easy spike stitch.
  • Just two color changes and four ends per square.
  • The royal blue seams make a crisp, tidy grid.
  • The picot shell edge gives it a pretty finished look.

This bedspread changed our guest room completely. It was all white and beige before, with a honey wood bed and a jute rug, and it felt a bit plain. Now the blue squares bring the whole room to life, and the olive tree by the window and the white flowers on the nightstand look fresher than ever. Every guest who stays with us says it feels like waking up at the seaside.

Making it taught me a few small lessons. I learned to keep my spike stitches loose, so they lie flat instead of pulling the frame. I learned to count my eyelets after every round, because one missing eyelet throws off the dot in the outline. And I learned that weaving in the ends as soon as I finished each square made the final joining feel like a celebration instead of a chore.

Most of all, I love that this is a bedspread for everyday life. Cotton washes well and gets softer over the years, and blue never goes out of style. I like to imagine it on a grandchild's bed at a summer cottage someday, the windows open and the sea breeze coming in. That is the kind of memory I hope my crochet will be part of.


Switch Things Up

The easiest change is the color pair. Keep a deep shade for the center, the outline, the seams and the edge, and a pale shade of the same color for the frame, and the window effect will always show. Emerald with mint feels fresh and garden-like, while plum with lilac is soft and romantic. Deep coral with peach is warm and summery, and charcoal with silver is calm and modern. For a classic look, try navy with ivory.

You can change the size by changing the number of squares. Each square is 10 inches after blocking, and the border adds about 2 inches on every side. The sizes below include a drop on the sides and the foot. For a coverlet that sits only on top of the mattress, take away two or three squares in each direction.

  • Twin: 7 by 9 squares (63), about 74 by 94 inches
  • Full: 9 by 10 squares (90), about 94 by 104 inches
  • Queen: 10 by 11 squares (110), about 104 by 114 inches
  • King: 12 by 11 squares (132), about 124 by 114 inches

A sofa throw is a lovely smaller version. Make 5 by 6 squares, thirty in total, for a throw of about 54 by 64 inches with the border. It takes about thirty hours and uses roughly a quarter of the yarn. It is a cheerful way to brighten a neutral sofa, and it makes a thoughtful gift for a new home or a beach house. It is also a great way to practice the spike stitch before starting the full bedspread.

For a baby blanket, make 3 by 4 squares for about 34 by 44 inches, or 4 by 4 squares for a square blanket of about 44 inches. Use a soft baby cotton or cotton blend in the same weight. Pale blue with white is classic, and soft yellow with cream is gentle and sweet. For a baby, you may prefer to skip the picots and work three rounds of single crochet instead, for a firm edge with no loops to catch little fingers.

Matching pillows make the bed look finished. Join four squares in a 2 by 2 block for the front of a large sham, and make the back from four more squares or a plain panel of sky blue double crochet. Join front and back with royal blue single crochet on three sides, slip in the pillow and close the last side. Work the shell and picot rounds around it. For a lumbar pillow, join three squares in a row and add royal blue tassels at the ends.

The same square makes lovely small gifts. A single square with the shell edge makes a sweet table mat or a cushion for a kitchen chair. Four squares joined in a strip make a pretty table runner for a summer table. In a sturdy cotton, one square folded and seamed on two sides becomes a little pouch for crochet hooks. These are fun ways to use up leftover yarn.

If you would like a different edge, there are easy options. Work three rounds of single crochet and a round of reverse single crochet for a neat corded edge. For a deeper border, add a round of chain loops and a second round of shells before the picots. For a playful beach house look, add royal blue tassels at the four corners. Whatever you choose, keep the edge in the deeper blue so it frames the whole bed.

You can also play with the yarn weight. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, squares come out at about 8 inches, so you need more of them, but the bedspread is lighter and drapes more. In a bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook, squares grow to about 13 inches, and 8 by 9 squares cover a queen bed much faster. Acrylic or a cotton blend is lighter and warmer. Always make one test square in your new yarn and measure it before you buy the rest.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (4) cotton yarn in light sky blue (Color A): about 2,800 g / 5,600 yd (based on 200 yd per 100 g)
02 Worsted weight (4) cotton yarn in royal blue (Color B): about 2,400 g / 4,800 yd, which includes about 1,500 yd for the joins and the border
03 One or two extra balls of each color from the same dye lot as a safety margin

— Tools Required

04 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
05 Yarn needle
06 Stitch markers
07 Scissors
08 Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
09 Measuring tape
10 Spray bottle with water

The Free Pattern

Beginner 100-130 Hours

0% complete

— Blue Window Granny Square (Make 110, royal blue and sky blue) :

Color A is light sky blue and Color B is royal blue. Rounds 1 to 3 and Round 8 are worked in B, Rounds 4 to 7 in A. The beginning ch-3 counts as a dc throughout.
Round 1: With B, make a magic ring. Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), *dc in the ring, ch 2; rep from * 6 more times. Pull the ring closed and sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-5 to join. (8 dc, 8 ch-2 sps)
Round 2: Sl st into the first ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp for the first corner, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 2 more times. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. (36 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 8 ch-1 windows)
Round 3: Sl st in next 2 dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, *dc in each of next 3 dc, ch 1, sk the ch-1 sp, dc in each of next 3 dc, ch 1, sk the ch-1 sp, dc in each of next 3 dc**, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off B. (52 dc, 8 ch-1 windows, 4 ch-2 corner sps; 13 dc and 2 windows on each side)
Round 4: Join A in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, *dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp across to the next corner**, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. (76 dc: 19 dc on each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 5: Sl st in next dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, *dc in each of next 9 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in each of next 9 dc**, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. (88 dc, 4 ch-1 eyelets, 4 ch-2 corner sps; 22 dc and 1 eyelet on each side)
Round 6: Sl st in next dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, *dc in each dc and in the ch-1 eyelet across to the next corner**, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. (108 dc: 27 dc on each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 7: Sl st in next dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, *dc in each dc across to the next corner**, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off A. (124 dc: 31 dc on each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Spike sc: insert the hook into the eyelet of Round 5, three rounds below, yo and pull up a long loop to the height of the current round, yo and pull through both loops. Keep the long loop relaxed so the frame does not pucker.
Round 8: Join B in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same sp, *sc in each of next 15 dc, spike sc into the Round 5 eyelet below the next dc, sc in each of next 15 dc**, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (132 sts: 128 sc and 4 spike sc; 33 sts on each side counting the corner sc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Rounds 1 to 3 measure about 4 inches (10 cm). Block each finished square to 10 by 10 inches (25 by 25 cm). The ch-2 corner spaces of Rounds 4 to 8 line up into the diagonal row of eyelets.

— Layout (10 x 11 grid, 110 squares) :

All 110 squares are the same, so there is no chart. Lay them out right side up in a straight grid.
Rows 1 to 11: Place 10 squares side by side in each row, matching the corners carefully. (11 rows x 10 squares = 110 squares)
Mix squares made on different days across the grid, so any small differences in tension are spread out.

— Royal Blue Ridge Join (Color B) :

Join all horizontal seams first, one full row at a time, then all vertical seams. Hold two squares wrong sides together so the seam forms a slim royal blue ridge on the right side.
Step 1: Join B through both corner ch-2 sps at the start of the seam. Ch 1, sc through both corner sps. (1 sc)
Step 2: Sc through both loops of both squares in each of the 33 sts along the side. (33 sc)
Step 3: Sc through both corner ch-2 sps at the end of the seam. (1 sc, 35 sc for the whole seam)
Step 4: Ch 1, pick up the next pair of squares and work Steps 1 to 3 again, continuing to the end of the row. Fasten off at the end of each long seam. (1 ch between pairs)
On the vertical seams, ch 1 across each place where four corners meet, so the crossing stays flat. Keep the seam relaxed and stretch it gently as you go.

— Royal Blue Picot Shell Border (Color B) :

The counts below are for the 10 x 11 queen grid: 10 squares and 9 seams on each short side, 11 squares and 10 seams on each long side.
Round 1: Join B in any outer corner ch-2 sp of the bedspread. Ch 1, 3 sc in the same sp, *[sc in each of the 33 sts along the side of the square, then 3 sc across the seam: 1 sc in the corner sp of this square, 1 sc in the top of the seam and 1 sc in the corner sp of the next square] across the side, working the last square up to its outer corner without the seam sts, 3 sc in the outer corner sp; rep from * 3 more times, omitting the last 3-sc corner. Sl st in the first sc to join. (1,512 sc: 359 sc on each short side and 395 sc on each long side between the 4 center corner sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, working 5 sc in each center corner st. Sl st in the first sc to join. (1,528 sc: 363 sc on each short side and 399 sc on each long side between the 4 new center corner sts)
Round 3: Sl st in each st to the next center corner st. Ch 3, 8 dc in the same st for the corner shell, *sk 1 st, sc in next st, (sk 2 sts, 7 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st) 60 times on a short side or 66 times on a long side, sk 1 st**, 9 dc in the next center corner st; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. (256 shells: 252 side shells of 7 dc and 4 corner shells of 9 dc, 256 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1, *sc in each dc of the shell up to the center dc, (sc, ch 3, sc) in the center dc, sc in each remaining dc of the shell, sl st in the sc between shells; rep from * around. Sl st in the first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (256 picots)
For any other grid, each side of Round 1 has 36 sc per square minus 1, and Round 2 adds 4, so the 6-st shell repeat always fits: work 6 shells for every square along the side.
Pin each scallop out over towels on the floor, opening the picots, spray lightly with water and let it dry.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make 110 Blue Window Granny Squares and weave in the four ends of each square as you finish it.
  2. Block every square to 10 by 10 inches, pinning the corners square and opening the windows, and let them dry completely.
  3. Lay the squares out in 11 rows of 10 following the Layout section, mixing squares from different days.
  4. Work all the horizontal seams with the Royal Blue Ridge Join, wrong sides together, one full row at a time.
  5. Work all the vertical seams the same way, with a ch 1 across each place where four corners meet.
  6. Work Rounds 1 to 4 of the Royal Blue Picot Shell Border around the whole bedspread.
  7. Weave in the last ends, then give the finished bedspread a final light blocking on a clean floor, pinning out the scallops.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Closing up the windows in Round 3. The little openings in the royal blue center only stay open if you chain one and skip the ch-1 space of Round 2 on every side. It is easy to work a double crochet into that space out of habit, especially after the rhythm of the corners. Then the window disappears, that side has an extra stitch, and the sky blue rounds will not match the count. Say it to yourself as you go: three, chain, three, chain, three. After the round, count 13 dc and 2 windows on every side before you fasten off.

Missing the middle eyelet in Round 5. The eyelet in the center of each side sits after exactly 9 dc, and it is the target for the royal blue spike stitch in Round 8. If you count 8 or 10, the eyelet shifts off center, and the royal blue dot will sit crooked on the finished square. Place a stitch marker in the 10th dc of each side before you start the round, so you know where to chain one and skip. Count 22 dc and one eyelet on each side when you finish. A minute of counting here keeps every dot perfectly centered.

Pulling the spike stitch too tight. The spike in Round 8 reaches down three rounds into the eyelet, and the long loop must lie flat against the sky blue frame. If you tug it, the frame puckers into a little dimple and the side of the square curves inward, which makes joining harder. Pull the loop up slowly until it reaches the height of the round and lies flat, then finish the stitch without pulling. If a spike looks tight, undo it and work it again. Check that all four sides lie flat before you fasten off.

Joining with the ridge on the wrong side. The royal blue ridge should sit on the right side of the bedspread, where it frames each square like the lead in a stained glass window. If you hold the squares right sides together, the ridge hides on the back, and the neat blue grid is lost. If you pull the seam too tight, the squares bunch and the bedspread will not lie flat. Always hold wrong sides together, count 35 sc on every seam, and stretch the seam gently every few inches. Check each joined row on the floor before starting the next.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves giving classic granny squares a fresh, colorful look for the home.



Important Notes

Gauge and square size matter more than anything in this pattern. With worsted weight cotton and a 5 mm hook, Rounds 1 to 3 should measure about 4 inches (10 cm), and the finished square should block to 10 inches (25 cm). Make one square and block it before you buy all your yarn. If it is smaller, go up a hook size. If it is larger, go down a size. All the grid sizes in this pattern assume a 10 inch square.

Block every square before you join. Pin it to a blocking mat at 10 by 10 inches, with straight sides and square corners. Spray it with water until damp, then let it dry completely, which usually takes a day. Blocking opens the windows and eyelets, settles the spike stitches and makes every square the same size. Block the finished bedspread once more after the border, pinning out every picot.

This bedspread uses about 2,800 grams of sky blue and 2,400 grams of royal blue for the queen size. Buy all of it at once, and check that every ball has the same dye lot number on the label. Blues can vary noticeably from lot to lot, and the royal blue grid would show any change clearly. Buy one or two extra balls of each color, so you do not run short at the border.

Wash the bedspread on a gentle cold cycle in a large machine, or by hand in a bathtub, with a mild detergent. Royal blue is much stronger than sky blue, so add a color catcher sheet to every wash, at least for the first several times, so no dye settles on the pale frames. Do not wring or twist it. Press out the water with towels and lay it flat to dry, shaping the squares and the scallops. Avoid the dryer and bleach.


I hope this bedspread brings a little summer sky into your bedroom, whatever the weather outside. It is a long project, but it is made of the friendliest little squares, each with its royal blue windows, its calm sky blue frame and its neat blue dot on every side. Do not let the number one hundred and ten worry you. You do not have to make them all today. You only have to make the first one.

So pick up your two blues, settle into a sunny chair with a glass of something cool, and start with that little ring of eight double crochet. Watch the windows open and the frame grow, then add your first spike stitch and smile at the little dot. Then make another. Before you know it, you will have a stack of blue squares, and one day soon a bedspread you will love for years. Happy crocheting, my friends.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 A — Color A, light sky blue
02 B — Color B, royal blue
03 ch — chain
04 sl st — slip stitch
05 sc — single crochet
06 spike sc — spike single crochet, worked into a round below
07 dc — double crochet
08 yo — yarn over
09 sk — skip
10 st(s) — stitch(es)
11 sp(s) — space(s)
12 ch-2 sp — the space made by 2 chains (same for ch-1)
13 rep — repeat

You Ask, We Answer

What is the finished size of this bedspread?

The bedspread in the photos measures about 104 by 114 inches (264 by 290 cm) including the border. It is made from 110 squares in a grid of 10 across and 11 down, and each square measures 10 inches after blocking. The picot shell border adds about 2 inches on each side. On a standard queen mattress, which is 60 by 80 inches, this size gives a drop of about 22 inches on each side and at the foot, so the scallops reach close to the floor, with extra length at the head to tuck under the pillows. If your bed is taller or lower, measure from the top of the mattress to the floor and add or remove squares to suit. Remember that a 10 inch square depends on your gauge, so measure your first blocked square and multiply by the number of squares you plan before you buy all your yarn. The variations section lists grids for twin, full and king beds too.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make it smaller?

Yes. The pattern works in any yarn weight, but the size of each square will change, so you need to adjust the number of squares. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, squares come out at about 8 inches, and you would need about 13 by 14 squares for the same queen size. In a bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook, squares grow to about 13 inches, and 8 by 9 squares cover a queen bed. To make a smaller piece, simply make fewer squares: thirty squares in a 5 by 6 grid make a sofa throw, and twelve to sixteen squares make a baby blanket. The rounds and stitch counts of the square stay exactly the same in every case, and so do the join and the border method. The border is planned so the shells fit evenly on any grid, with 6 shells per square along each side, so you never need to recalculate the repeat.

How do I wash and care for the bedspread?

Cotton is easy to care for, but a bedspread this size is heavy when wet, so treat it gently. Wash it on a cold, gentle cycle in a large capacity machine, or by hand in the bathtub with a mild detergent. Always add a color catcher sheet, because the royal blue can release a little dye onto the sky blue frames, especially in the first few washes. Never use bleach, as it weakens cotton and fades blue yarn unevenly. Do not hang it wet from a line, since the weight will stretch the squares and pull the scallops long. Instead, press out the water with towels and lay it flat to dry, shaping the squares and opening the picots as you go. Between seasons, fold it loosely and store it in a cotton bag, not plastic, with a sachet of lavender or cedar to keep moths away.