Amanda's Creative Corner Crochet · Kitchen
Free Crochet Patterns Handmade with Love

Forest Green Rose Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

Jump to Pattern
Forest Green Rose Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
180-230 Hours 0 made this
Intermediate Level

You need to be comfortable with double crochet, back loop work and sewing a small rose together.

180 to 230 Hours

Each square and rose is quick to make, and the hours add up one square at a time.

Raised Cream Roses

Every deep green square carries one large 3D rose with two little leaves.

About This Forest Green Rose Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bed cover is made from 63 deep forest green squares, each worked in the round with dense, ridged double crochet. Every square carries one large raised cream rose with two green leaves sewn at its base. The squares are sewn together with flat seams and finished with a neat green edging.

The finished cover measures about 72 by 92 inches. It covers a twin bed with a soft drop on the sides and sits nicely as a topper on a larger bed. It suits crocheters who enjoy long projects made from small, repeating pieces.

Forest Green Rose Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Forest Green Rose Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love that every square and every rose is small enough to tuck into my bag. I make a few squares, then a few roses, and the whole bed cover grows without me noticing.

The cream roses look so bright against the deep green. When the cover is on the bed with a few cushions, the bedroom feels warm and calm, and it makes a gift people keep for years.


Switch Things Up

Try a dusty rose flower on a charcoal square for a moodier look, or a soft butter yellow rose on sage green for a spring bedroom. For a baby blanket, join 3 by 4 squares to get about 30 by 40 inches. For a throw, join 5 by 6 squares to get about 50 by 60 inches. You can also leave out the roses on every other square for a lighter checkerboard look.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (4) 100% cotton yarn in deep forest green: about 7,200 yards (about 3,800 g) for 63 squares, 126 leaves, the seams and the edging
02 Worsted weight (4) 100% cotton yarn in cream: about 2,400 yards (about 1,300 g) for 63 roses
03 Buy a little extra of each color so you can make a test square and a test rose and have spare yarn for repairs

— Tools Required

04 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
05 Yarn needle
06 At least 4 stitch markers for the edging corners
07 Scissors
08 Blocking mats and rustproof pins
09 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 180-230 Hours

0% complete

— Textured Green Square (Make 63, forest green) :

Each square is worked in the round without turning. From Round 2 on, work every dc into the back loop only (blo) of the dc below, and work the corner groups into the ch-2 sps. The back loops make the ridged texture. Each finished square should measure about 10 inches (25 cm). Make one test square first and measure it before making the rest.
Round 1: Ch 4 and join with sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in ring, ch 2, *2 dc in ring, ch 2; rep from * 2 more times, join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3. (8 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Round 2: Sl st in next dc and in next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp. *Dc in blo of each of the next 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times. Dc in blo of each of the next 2 dc, join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3. (24 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Round 3: Sl st in next dc and in next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp. *Dc in blo of each of the next 6 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times. Dc in blo of each of the next 6 dc, join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3. (40 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Round 4: Sl st in next dc and in next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp. *Dc in blo of each of the next 10 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times. Dc in blo of each of the next 10 dc, join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3. (56 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Round 5: Sl st in next dc and in next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp. *Dc in blo of each of the next 14 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times. Dc in blo of each of the next 14 dc, join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3. (72 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Round 6: Sl st in next dc and in next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp. *Dc in blo of each of the next 18 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times. Dc in blo of each of the next 18 dc, join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3. (88 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Round 7: Sl st in next dc and in next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp. *Dc in blo of each of the next 22 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times. Dc in blo of each of the next 22 dc, join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3. (104 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Round 8: Sl st in next dc and in next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp. *Dc in blo of each of the next 26 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times. Dc in blo of each of the next 26 dc, join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3. Fasten off. (120 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Each finished side has 30 dc between the two corner sps. Count them once on your test square, because the seams and the edging depend on this number.

— Rose Inner Strip (Make 63, cream) :

Row 1: Ch 26. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (25 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st, *skip next st, 5 dc in next st, skip next st, sc in next st; rep from * 5 more times. Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail. (6 petals of 5 dc, 7 sc)

— Rose Outer Strip (Make 63, cream) :

Row 1: Ch 50. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (49 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in first st, *skip next st, 7 dc in next st, skip next st, sc in next st; rep from * 11 more times. Fasten off, leaving a 24 inch tail. (12 petals of 7 dc, 13 sc)
To shape the rose, roll the Inner Strip tightly from one short end with the petals facing out, and stitch the base together with its tail. Wrap the Outer Strip around the inner roll in the same direction, keeping the sc edge level at the bottom, and sew through the base every few stitches. Gently curl the petals outward with your fingers.

— Leaf (Make 126, forest green) :

Round 1: Ch 9. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in each of the next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working in the bottom loops of the foundation ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in each of the next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in last ch. Fasten off, leaving a 6 inch tail. (17 sts)

— Layout (Make 1 grid of 63 squares) :

Grid: Lay the squares out in 9 rows of 7 squares, all facing the same way. (7 x 9 = 63 squares, 70 by 90 inches before the edging)
Rose placement: Sew one rose in the center of every square, with a leaf at the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions at the base of the rose. (63 roses, 126 leaves)

— Edging (Make 1, forest green) :

Place a stitch marker in each of the 4 outer corner ch-2 sps before you begin. Work the short edge (7 squares) first, then the long edge (9 squares), and keep that order all the way around.
Round 1: Join green in any outer corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, 3 sc in same sp. Along the edge, sc in each dc of each square. At every seam, work 1 sc in the corner ch-2 sp of the square before the seam and 1 sc in the corner ch-2 sp of the next square. Work 3 sc in each outer corner ch-2 sp, and join with sl st to first sc. (1,028 sc: 222 on each short edge, 286 on each long edge, plus 3 sc in each of the 4 corners)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, working 3 sc in the center sc of each corner. Join with sl st to first sc and fasten off. (1,036 sc)

Assembly Instructions

  1. Weave in all ends on the Textured Green Squares, then block each square to 10 inches by pinning it flat, misting it with water and letting it dry completely.
  2. Make 63 roses. Roll each Rose Inner Strip tightly, wrap the Rose Outer Strip around it, and stitch the base firmly with the cream tails.
  3. Sew one rose to the center of each square, then sew two Leaves at the base of each rose, following the Layout section.
  4. Lay all 63 squares on the floor in 9 rows of 7, and check that every square faces the same way and that the leaves sit in the same places.
  5. Join the squares into rows with a whipstitch seam in forest green, sewing through the back loops of the 30 dc on each side of both squares. Keep the seam loose so it stays as stretchy as the squares.
  6. Join the 9 rows to each other with the same whipstitch seam, and where four squares meet, sew through all four corner sps so the corners stay flat.
  7. Weave in the seam ends, then block the whole cover lightly on a clean bed or floor, pinning the outer edge straight and keeping the iron or steam away from the roses.
  8. Work the Edging in forest green around the outer edge, then weave in the last ends.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Working Rounds 2 to 8 into both loops instead of the back loop only. The squares then lose their ridged texture and come out smaller, so check your first square against the 10 inch measurement.

Skipping the ch 2 at a corner. The square then curls and ends up smaller than the others, so make each corner (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) every time.

Rolling the rose too loosely. A loose rose flops over on the square, so roll the inner strip tightly and sew through the base every few stitches.

Sewing the seams too tightly. A tight seam pulls the cover into puckers, so use a loose tension and check that each seam lies flat.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who writes clear, cozy patterns for the home and loves a blanket made one small square at a time.



Important Notes

Each square should measure about 10 inches (25 cm) after blocking. If your square comes out smaller, go up a hook size before making the rest.

The edging counts are written for a grid of 7 by 9 squares. For another grid size, work 30 sc for every square along an edge, plus 2 sc at each seam.

Yarn amounts are approximate and depend on your tension, so keep a little extra of each color.

Wash the cover in cold water on a gentle cycle with mild detergent and dry it flat. Cotton is heavy when wet, so support the whole cover when you lift it.


Thank you for crocheting this bed cover with me. Take it one square and one rose at a time, and send me a photo when the last seam is sewn. Happy crocheting, Denise.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sl st — slip stitch
03 sc — single crochet
04 hdc — half double crochet
05 dc — double crochet
06 blo — back loop only
07 sp — space (plural: sps)
08 st — stitch (plural: sts)
09 rep — repeat

You Ask, We Answer

How big is the finished bed cover?

With 7 squares across and 9 down, the squares measure 70 by 90 inches, and the edging adds about 1 inch on each side, so the finished size is about 72 by 92 inches. That covers a twin bed with a soft drop and works as a topper on a larger bed.

Can I use another yarn weight or make a different size?

Yes. A thinner yarn gives smaller squares, so you will need more of them to reach the same size. For a baby blanket, join 3 by 4 squares to get about 30 by 40 inches. For a throw, join 5 by 6 squares to get about 50 by 60 inches. For a queen size cover, join 9 by 9 squares to get about 90 by 90 inches, and work 30 sc for every square along each edge.

How do I wash and care for the cover?

Machine wash it in cold water on a gentle cycle with mild detergent, then dry it flat. Do not wring it, and support its weight when it is wet so the stitches and the roses do not stretch.