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Lilac Lattice Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Lilac Lattice Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
80-110 Hours 0 made this
Intermediate Level

You need to be comfortable with double crochet, mesh rows, corners and simple seaming.

80-110 Hours

Each square takes about 35 minutes, so the bed cover grows one small piece at a time.

Lilac Lattice Centers

An open mesh center in every square gives the bed cover a light, woven look.

About This Lilac Lattice Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bed cover is made from 120 identical squares. Each one has a bright lilac lattice center, worked as a small double crochet and chain mesh, framed by three rounds of sand beige. When the squares are joined, the beige frames merge into a warm, lacy background and the lilac lattices sit in it like little windows.

The finished size is about 74 by 88 inches, which covers a full or double bed with a soft drape. You will use double crochet, chain-one mesh rows, granny style corner rounds, whipstitch seams and a scalloped shell border. It suits crocheters who have made a few squares before and enjoy a long, steady project.

Lilac Lattice Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Lilac Lattice Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love this project because the squares are small and easy to carry. I can make the lilac center in one sitting, add the beige frame the next day, and always have a finished square to show for it.

It is also a good way to use up a big bulk of neutral yarn with just a touch of color. The result feels cozy and a little vintage, and it makes a lovely gift for a new home or a guest room.


Switch Things Up

Try a soft blue or sage center with cream frames, or a dusty rose center with taupe frames. For a baby blanket, make 4 squares across and 5 down for a finished size of about 28 by 35 inches. For a throw, make 6 squares across and 8 down. You can also make matching pillow covers with extra squares, and swap the shell border for a plain single crochet edge if you want a simpler finish.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (4) 100 percent cotton yarn, matte finish
02 Sand beige: about 4,200 yards (about 2,500 g), includes frames, seams and border
03 Lilac: about 900 yards (about 550 g), for the lattice centers
04 Buy about 10 percent extra of each color so you do not run short on the last squares

— Tools Required

05 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
06 Yarn needle
07 Stitch markers
08 Scissors
09 Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
10 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 80-110 Hours

0% complete

— Lattice Center (Make 120, lilac) :

The center is a small mesh square of 6 rows with 6 mesh spaces in each row. It is worked flat, turning at the end of each row. It should measure about 3.5 inches (9 cm) square before the frame.
Row 1: With lilac, ch 15. Dc in the 5th ch from hook (the first 4 chs count as a dc and a ch-1 sp). *Ch 1, skip next ch, dc in next ch; rep from * 4 more times. (7 dc, 6 ch-1 sps)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), turn. Skip the first dc and the next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc. *Ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * 4 more times, ending with the last dc in the 3rd ch of the beginning chain of Row 1. (7 dc, 6 ch-1 sps)
Rows 3 to 6: Repeat Row 2 four more times, ending each row with the last dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch-4 of the previous row. Fasten off after Row 6. (7 dc, 6 ch-1 sps in each row)

— Beige Frame (Make 120, sand beige, worked around each lilac center) :

Work every frame round with the right side facing you and do not turn. Each side needs exactly 11 dc between the corners in Round 1, so adjust your spacing along the row ends to land on 11. Each finished square should measure about 7 inches (18 cm).
Round 1: Join sand beige with a sl st in the corner dc at the end of Row 6. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc all in the same dc for the first corner. Dc in each of the next 11 sts along the edge (the dc and the ch-1 sps), (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner dc. Work 11 dc evenly spaced along the row ends (3 dc in each of the first 3 row ends, 2 dc in the last), (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the corner dc. Dc in each of the next 11 sts along the foundation edge, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the corner dc. Work 11 dc evenly spaced along the last side, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Fasten off. (68 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 17 dc along each side between corner sps)
Round 2: Join sand beige with a sl st in any ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc all in the same sp. *Dc in next dc, [ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc] 8 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 corner sp; rep from * 2 more times. Dc in next dc, [ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc] 8 times, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (60 dc, 32 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 3: Sl st into the next 2 dc and into the ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc all in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 17 sts (the dc and the ch-1 sps), (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 corner sp; rep from * 2 more times. Dc in each of the next 17 sts, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Fasten off. (92 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 23 dc along each side between corner sps)

— Layout :

Arrange the squares in 12 rows of 10 squares, for 120 squares in total. All squares are identical: a lilac lattice center with a sand beige frame.
Because the frames are all beige, the joined squares read as one warm lacy background with a lilac lattice at the center of each block. Keep all squares facing the same way so the corners match.
Finished size before the border is about 70 by 84 inches. The border adds about 2 inches on every side, so the bed cover ends up at about 74 by 88 inches.

— Border (Make 1, sand beige) :

Round 1: Join sand beige with a sl st in the ch-2 corner sp of any outer corner square. Ch 1, 3 sc in the same sp. *Sc in each of the 23 dc across the square, then work 1 sc through both ch-2 corner sps where two squares meet. Rep across the edge, ending with 23 sc across the last square, then work 3 sc in the outer corner sp. Rep from * around all four sides. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (1,064 sc: 239 sc along each short edge, 287 sc along each long edge, 12 sc in the outer corners)
Round 2: Ch 1, sl st in the first sc. *Skip next 3 sc, 7 dc in next sc, skip next 3 sc, sl st in next sc; rep from * 131 more times. Skip next 3 sc, 7 dc in next sc, skip last 3 sc, join with a sl st in the first sl st. Fasten off and weave in the end. (133 shells, 931 dc)
If your stitch count is a little off after Round 1, add or skip a sc near each outer corner so the total is exactly 1,064. The shells need a multiple of 8 stitches to fit evenly.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Weave in all ends on each square, then wet block or steam block every square to about 7 inches so they are all the same size.
  2. Lay the squares out in 12 rows of 10 squares on a bed or a clean floor, with all squares facing the same way, following the Layout section.
  3. Join the squares into rows by holding two squares side by side and whipstitching them together with sand beige yarn, through the back loops only, matching the 23 sts on each side.
  4. Join the 12 rows to each other the same way, lining up the seams at every corner so the crossings look neat and flat.
  5. Weave in the seam ends and block the whole bed cover flat with pins, leaving it to dry completely.
  6. Work Border Round 1 around the outer edge with sand beige, putting 3 sc in each outer corner and 1 sc at every seam.
  7. Work Border Round 2 to make the scalloped shells, then fasten off, weave in the end and lightly block the edge so the shells lie flat.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Uneven mesh rows will make the lilac center lean, so keep the same tension and always count 7 dc and 6 ch-1 sps at the end of each row.

Landing on more or fewer than 11 dc along a side in Frame Round 1 throws off the later rounds, so adjust your spacing along the row ends to get exactly 11.

Squares that come out in different sizes will make the seams ripple, so check each one against a 7 inch template and adjust your tension if needed.

Joining too tightly with the whipstitch pulls the bed cover in, so keep the seam stitches as loose as the squares themselves.


Denise

Denise designs cozy granny square blankets and home decor patterns with clear round by round instructions.



Important Notes

Gauge is not critical, but each square should measure about 7 inches. If yours are smaller or larger, change your hook size and expect the yarn amount to change too.

Always block the squares before joining. Cotton can be stiff, and blocking opens the lattice and evens the edges.

Yarn amounts are estimates for the full 120 squares plus seams and border. Buy extra from the same dye lot, especially for sand beige.

Machine wash cold on a gentle cycle and lay flat to dry. Cotton shrinks a little the first time, so wash a test square first.


Thank you for crocheting this bed cover with me. Take your time, enjoy each little lattice, and I hope it becomes a favorite in your home.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sl st — slip stitch
03 sc — single crochet
04 dc — double crochet
05 st — stitch
06 sts — stitches
07 sp — space (for example ch-1 sp is a space made by one chain)
08 rep — repeat

You Ask, We Answer

How big is the finished bed cover?

It is about 74 by 88 inches with the border, made from 10 squares across and 12 squares down. That covers a full or double bed with a soft drape on the sides.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make a different size?

Yes. Lighter yarn with a smaller hook gives a smaller square, so you will need more squares. To change the size, add or remove whole rows or columns of squares, and change the border count to a multiple of 8 stitches.

How do I wash and care for it?

Wash it cold on a gentle cycle, or by hand, and lay it flat to dry. Avoid hanging it while wet because the weight of the cotton can stretch the squares.