Camel and Cream Two-Color Spiral Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
You work with two colors at once and join the motifs as you go, but every step uses basic stitches.
Each round motif takes about forty-five minutes, so the cover grows a little every day.
Two colors chase each other around the center, so every motif twists like a seashell without a single seam.
About This Camel and Cream Two-Color Spiral Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern
This bed cover is made of round motifs, and every motif is a two-color spiral. A cream arm and a camel tan arm wrap around each other from the very center, so each circle looks like a seashell or a little whirlpool caught in yarn. Around the spiral sits a ring of open treble crochet spokes, and around that a soft edge of small chain loops. The motifs are joined edge to edge in a grid, and small camel fillers close the gaps between them. On the bed, the spirals turn in rows like waves, and the outer motifs form a deep scalloped edge that falls toward the floor.
The spiral looks complicated, but the secret is simple. You start both colors in the same magic ring, one after the other, and then you never join a round. Instead, you work a section with cream, drop it, pick up camel and work the next section, then drop camel and pick up cream again. Each color always works into the stitches the other color made last. Because the colors keep leapfrogging, their edges twist around the center, and the spiral builds itself. There is no slip stitch seam anywhere in the motif, which is why the swirl looks so smooth.
The first four rounds are double crochet, growing evenly until each color has 24 stitches. Then a round of treble crochet with chain spaces opens the motif into a ring of spokes, and a round of single crochet firms it up again. The last round is a ring of small chain loops, half in cream and half in camel. From the second motif on, you join each new motif to its neighbors while you make that last round, so there is very little sewing at the end. A motif measures about 7.5 inches across after blocking.
The queen size uses 143 motifs, set in 11 columns and 13 rows, and 120 small camel fillers, one in every gap where four motifs meet. The finished cover measures about 83 by 98 inches, plus the scalloped edge. I finish the outside with one round of single crochet and picots worked into every free loop, which strengthens the edge and adds a tiny frill to each scallop. Because the edge follows the round motifs, it is scalloped by nature, and it drapes beautifully over the sides and foot of the bed.
The stitches are all familiar: chain, slip stitch, single crochet, double crochet, treble crochet and a picot. What makes this pattern intermediate is the two-color spiral, because you have two working loops on the go and you need to keep track of which color comes next. After your first two or three motifs, the rhythm becomes natural, and I give the stitch count for each color at the end of every round so you can check your work. Joining as you go also takes a little practice, but it saves many hours of sewing later.
The finished bed cover is light, airy and full of movement. The spirals give it a sculpted, almost three-dimensional look, and the open spokes and loops let it breathe. In worsted cotton it has a lovely weight that drapes softly over the mattress without feeling heavy. Camel tan and cream are warm, natural colors that sit beautifully with walnut furniture, linen headboards, brass lamps and green plants. The cover looks calm from across the room and full of detail up close.
I would suggest this pattern to someone who already knows the basic stitches and would like to learn a technique that feels a little magical. It is a long project, about 150 to 190 hours, but each motif is small and quick, so you always have a sense of progress. If you have never worked with two colors at once, make three or four motifs as coasters first. Once your hands understand the spiral, the bed cover is simply the same motif again and again.
Why You'll Love This Camel and Cream Two-Color Spiral Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern
I love the moment the spiral appears. For the first round or two, the motif looks like a small, slightly lopsided circle of two colors, and you wonder if you have done it right. Then, on the third round, the edges of the colors begin to curve, and by the fourth round you can see a true swirl turning in the middle. I still say a little wow to myself every time, even after more than a hundred motifs. It feels like a small magic trick that I get to perform with every circle.
I also love that there are no joins in the spiral. So many round motifs have that small step where each round ends, and you can always see it if you look closely. Here, the colors simply pass each other and keep going, so the swirl flows smoothly from the center to the edge. It looks so neat and polished, and yet it is easier than joining every round, because you never have to find the first stitch again. Once I learned this technique, I wanted to use it everywhere.
Each motif takes me about forty-five minutes, which makes it a perfect project for small pockets of time. I can make one while my coffee cools in the morning, and another in the evening with a favorite program on. I keep the two colors in separate small bags so they do not tangle, and I hang the working loop of the color I am not using on a stitch marker. With that habit, I can pick up the motif at any moment and know exactly where I stopped.
A few things I learned along the way:
- Always hold the waiting loop on a stitch marker so it never unravels.
- Turn the motif, not the yarn balls, to keep the strands from twisting.
- Make the first ten motifs before you start joining, to settle your tension.
- Lay out the motifs on the bed every so often to see the pattern grow.
The colors are a big part of why I love it. Camel tan feels like warm sand, toasted bread and cozy autumn days, and cream keeps it bright and fresh. Together they look natural and timeless, and they fit any bedroom, from a modern room with walnut furniture to a cottage room with floral curtains. When I put this cover on our bed, the room instantly felt warmer, softer and calmer, like a small hotel suite where someone has thought about every detail.
I love joining as you go, too. There is something very satisfying about finishing the last round of a motif and watching it link to its neighbors in the same moment. The cover grows into one piece while I work, and I can spread it over my knees and see the waves of spirals forming. When the last motif is in, there is no long evening of sewing waiting for me, just the fillers and the edge, and then the cover is ready for the bed.
Finally, I love what it means as a gift or an heirloom. A cover with so many spirals carries hours and hours of patient work, and it looks like something from another time. I imagine it being passed down, folded at the end of a bed in a grandchild's home many years from now. Whether you keep it or give it, it is a piece that tells a story every time someone notices those little swirls.
Switch Things Up
Choose a new color pair. The spiral shows best with two colors that contrast clearly, one lighter and one deeper. Sage green and cream feel fresh and calm, navy and white look crisp and nautical, and dusty rose with ivory is soft and romantic. For a bold room, try terracotta with sand or charcoal with light gray. Keep the filler color the same as the deeper shade, so the gaps between motifs read as quiet background and the spirals stay in front.
Make it for any bed. Each motif is about 7.5 inches across, so planning a new size is simple. Add or remove columns for the width and rows for the length, and the number of fillers is always one less than the columns times one less than the rows. These counts are measured before the edge:
- Twin: 9 by 13 motifs, 117 motifs and 96 fillers, about 68 by 98 inches
- Full: 10 by 13 motifs, 130 motifs and 108 fillers, about 75 by 98 inches
- Queen: 11 by 13 motifs, 143 motifs and 120 fillers, about 83 by 98 inches
- King: 13 by 13 motifs, 169 motifs and 144 fillers, about 98 by 98 inches
Make a sofa throw. Seven columns by eight rows, 56 motifs and 42 fillers, makes a throw of about 53 by 60 inches. It uses roughly 40 percent of the yarn, so it is a lovely way to try the spiral technique without committing to a whole bed. The scalloped edge looks especially pretty hanging over the arm of a sofa or the back of a reading chair, and it makes a thoughtful housewarming or birthday gift.
Make a baby blanket. Five columns by six rows, 30 motifs and 20 fillers, gives a blanket of about 38 by 45 inches. Choose a soft cotton blend or a good baby acrylic that can go in a warm wash, and pick gentle pairs like mint and white or butter yellow and cream. Because the motifs are lacy, add one extra round of single crochet around the outside edge, and weave every end in very securely so little fingers cannot catch it.
Make matching pillows and table pieces. Four motifs joined 2 by 2 with one filler in the middle make the front of a 15 inch cushion; sew it onto a camel fabric pillow cover so the spirals show against a matching color. A single motif makes a lovely coaster or candle mat, and a row of five or six motifs joined in a line becomes a table runner. Using the same motif around the room ties everything together and uses up the yarn left over from the bed cover.
Turn it into a one-color lace cover. Make every motif in a single color, such as all cream or all ecru, and the spirals become a subtle, elegant swirl that you notice only up close. You still use two strands, but both are the same color, so the technique stays the same. This version looks wonderful as a vintage-style bedspread over a colored blanket, where the color underneath shines through every spoke and loop.
Change the edge. The single crochet and picot edge is light and simple, but you can choose something fuller. Work small shells of five double crochet into each free loop for a deeper, wavier edge, or add a second round of chain loops before the picots for a lacier frill. For a tidier, straighter look, fill the half gaps along the outside edge with half fillers before the edge round, so the sides run straighter between the scallops.
Change the yarn weight. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, each motif comes out about 6 inches across, and a queen cover needs about 14 by 16 motifs, 224 in all. In bulky yarn with a 6 mm hook, the motifs grow to about 9.5 inches, and a queen needs only 9 by 10 motifs, 90 in all. Always make and block one motif first, measure it, and divide your bed size by that number before you buy yarn.
Materials Needed
— Main Fabric
— Tools Required
The Free Pattern
0% complete
— Two-Color Spiral Motif (Make 143, cream and camel tan) :
— Layout :
— Camel Filler (Make 120, camel tan) :
— Edge :
Assembly Instructions
- Make one full motif, block it and check that it measures about 7.5 inches across before you go on.
- Make the first motif of the top row, then join each new motif to the one on its left during Rnd 7 until the row has 11 motifs.
- From the second row on, join each new motif to the motif on its left and the motif above it, always keeping the same orientation.
- Continue until you have 13 rows of 11 motifs, 143 motifs in all.
- Work a camel filler in each of the 120 gaps where four motifs meet, joining its 8 arms to the 8 corner loops around the gap.
- Work the cream edge round into every free loop around the outside of the cover.
- Weave in all remaining ends, then pin the cover out, spray it lightly with water and let it dry flat so the spirals and loops open evenly.
Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them
Picking up the wrong color or the wrong loop. With two working loops on the motif, it is easy to grab the color you just dropped, or to pull the waiting loop and unravel a few stitches. If that happens, the spiral loses its shape, and one color ends up with more stitches than the other. Always place the dropped loop on a locking stitch marker straight away, and pick up the loop that sits right before the next stitches you will work into. Check that cream and camel have the same count at the end of every round. If they differ, pull back to the last even round.
Letting the two strands twist together. Each time you drop one color and pick up the other, the two balls of yarn twist around each other. After a few rounds, they become a tight rope, your tension changes, and the motif can start to pucker or curl in one section. The fix is simple: turn the motif, not the balls, and keep the cream ball on one side of you and the camel on the other. After each motif, let the strands hang and untwist before you start the next. It takes a few seconds and saves a lot of frustration later.
Joining motifs in the wrong orientation. The spiral turns the same way in every motif, and each side has its own color and its own loops. If one motif is turned, cream sides end up meeting cream sides, the corner loops no longer face the gaps, and the waves of spirals break across the bed. Before you start Rnd 7 on a joining motif, check that your cream loops 1 to 7 will form the top side, just like all the others. A small safety pin in the top of the first motif and a quick look at it before each join keeps everything aligned.
Making the filler arms too tight or too loose. The filler pulls the four corner loops around a gap toward each other, and if the ch 5 arms are tight, the corners of the motifs pucker and the cover will not lie flat. If the arms are too loose, the gaps sag and look like holes. Work the chains at a relaxed, even tension and check that each arm reaches its loop without stretching. After you finish a row of fillers, smooth that part of the cover flat on a table. If a filler pulls, undo it and work it again with longer chains.
Important Notes
Gauge matters because 143 motifs have to fit together. With a 4.5 mm hook, the first four rounds should measure about 3.75 inches across and the finished motif about 7.5 inches after blocking. If your motif is a little smaller or larger, that is fine, as long as every motif matches. Measure your first five motifs, then check one in every ten. If the spiral cups after Rnd 4, go up half a hook size; if it ruffles, go down half a size before you continue.
Block the first motif on its own, and block the finished cover once all the fillers and the edge are done. Pin the cover out on a large clean surface, or in sections on blocking mats, opening each spiral into a round shape and stretching the loops gently. Spray it with water until damp, smooth the spokes and let it dry completely before unpinning. Blocking turns the spirals into crisp, even circles and makes the open spokes and loops really stand out.
The yarn amounts in the materials list are estimates for the queen size and include the fillers and the edge. Buy all of the camel and all of the cream at the same time, from the same dye lots, and keep the labels. Camel tan in particular can vary between lots, and a slightly darker batch would show as a band across the bed. Buy one extra skein of each color for safety and for any repairs in the future.
Wash the finished cover on a gentle cold cycle in a large mesh bag or a zipped duvet cover, with a mild detergent. Camel and cream sit side by side in every motif, so add a color catcher sheet to the first few washes in case the camel bleeds into the cream. Never wring or twist the cover, because the lace can stretch out of shape. Press out the water, lay it flat on towels or a clean drying rack, reshape the spirals while damp, and let it dry fully.
Thank you for making this camel and cream spiral bed cover with me. I hope you enjoy that little moment of magic when the swirl first appears, and the calm rhythm of making motif after motif. It is a big project, but every circle is quick and cheerful, and the cover grows into one piece right under your hands as you join each motif to its neighbors.
So find your two colors, make a magic ring and start your first spiral today. Make it, block it, and lay it on your bed to admire. Then make another, and another, and before long you will have waves of spirals that bring warmth and a little magic to your bedroom for many years.
Crochet Abbreviations
You Ask, We Answer
How big is the finished bed cover, and how many motifs do I need?
Following the pattern exactly, each motif measures about 7.5 inches across after blocking. The queen size uses 143 motifs in 11 columns and 13 rows, plus 120 camel fillers, and finishes at about 83 by 98 inches, with the scalloped edge adding a little more on every side. On a standard queen mattress of 60 by 80 inches, that gives a drop of about 11 inches on each side and a generous drape at the foot. If your bed is tall and you want the scallops to reach the floor, add one column for width and one row for length. To plan your own size, measure the mattress width plus twice the drop, and the mattress length plus one drop, divide each by 7.5 and round up. The fillers are always one less than the number of columns times one less than the number of rows.
Can I use a different yarn, fiber or hook size?
Yes. I recommend worsted cotton because it gives crisp, clear spirals, holds the open spokes in shape and washes well. A cotton and acrylic blend makes a lighter, softer cover, and a smooth acrylic works if you want easy care. Very fuzzy yarns, such as brushed wool or mohair, hide the spiral and the lacy spokes, so I would avoid them for this pattern. The shape of the motif comes from the stitch counts, so it works in any yarn weight, and only the size changes. DK with a 4 mm hook gives motifs about 6 inches across, and bulky with a 6 mm hook gives motifs about 9.5 inches across. Make and block one motif in your chosen yarn, measure it, then work out the number of motifs and the amount of yarn before you buy everything.
How do I care for and store the bed cover so it lasts?
Wash it only when it really needs it, on a gentle cold cycle in a large mesh bag with mild detergent, and add a color catcher, especially for the first few washes. Dry it flat, reshaping the spirals and loops while it is damp. Never put it in a hot dryer, because cotton can shrink and the lace can lose its shape. Between washes, shake it out gently and let it air by an open window, out of strong direct sun, which can fade the camel over time. To store it, fold it loosely with a sheet of tissue paper between the layers and keep it in a cotton bag rather than plastic, so the yarn can breathe. Refold it along different lines every few months. If a joining loop ever comes loose, simply slip stitch it back into place with a little matching yarn.
Success!
Thanks for subscribing — check your inbox for a welcome note.
Abbreviations
- ch — chain
- sl st — slip stitch
- sc — single crochet
- hdc — half double crochet
- dc — double crochet
- tr — treble crochet
- picot — ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook
- st(s) — stitch(es)
- sp(s) — space(s)
- rep — repeat
- Rnd — round
- RS — right side
