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Moss Green and White Pinwheel Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern

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Moss Green and White Pinwheel Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern
110-140 Hours 0 made this
Intermediate Level

Raised front post spokes over striped rounds, squared off with a graded round and counted all the way.

110 to 140 Hours

Each square takes under an hour, plus joining and a three-round corded edge.

Garden Fresh

Two soft greens and crisp white make every square look like a little spinning fern.

About This Moss Green and White Pinwheel Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bedspread is made from one hundred and ten squares in three fresh garden colors: a deep moss green, a pale pistachio green and a crisp white. Every square starts with a small moss green ring, and then the colors take turns round by round, building an octagon of soft stripes. In each round, eight front post stitches wrap around the raised stitch below them, so eight thick, twisted spokes climb from the center outward. As each round grows by one stitch per section, the spokes lean gently to one side, and the center swirls like a fern unfurling in spring. A white graded round turns the octagon into a square, a round of small eyelets opens near each corner, and a pistachio outline finishes the edge.

The finished bedspread measures about 104 by 114 inches (264 by 290 cm) including the edge. It is a grid of 10 squares across and 11 squares down, with each square measuring 10 inches after blocking, plus three rounds of corded edging in white and pistachio. On a queen mattress that gives a drop of about 22 inches on each side and at the foot, so the bedspread reaches close to the floor and covers the whole bed. Because every square is the same, there is no chart and no color plan to follow beyond the order of the rounds.

The stitches are chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet and treble crochet, plus the front post double crochet and reverse single crochet. A front post double crochet is worked around the post of a stitch from the front, so the new stitch sits raised on the surface instead of lying flat. That one simple stitch creates all the sculpted spokes you see in the photos. The squaring round uses graded stitch heights, from treble at the corners down to single crochet at the middle of each side, so the circle becomes a square without any puckering.

The squares are joined with pistachio single crochet on the right side, worked through both squares at once. The pale green ridges outline every square softly, like a garden path between flower beds. When all the seams are done, two white rounds and one pistachio round go around the whole bedspread. The final round is worked in reverse single crochet, which twists the stitches into a firm, rope-like cord that frames the bed and wears beautifully.

In worsted weight cotton the bedspread has a pleasing weight and a soft, cool surface. The raised spokes give each square real texture, and the stripes of moss, pistachio and white look fresh and calm in natural light. The colors remind me of a vegetable garden in early summer, sage leaves on a windowsill or the soft green of a meadow after rain. They suit light oak furniture, cream walls, linen curtains, jute rugs and lots of houseplants, and they bring a peaceful, outdoorsy feeling into the bedroom.

I rate this pattern as intermediate. You need to be comfortable with front post stitches, changing colors every round in the center, and counting carefully in the squaring round. Once you have made two or three squares, the rhythm becomes easy and relaxing. It suits a maker who enjoys texture and color and likes to see a project grow one satisfying square at a time. Every round is written out with its stitch count, so you can always check where you are.

Moss Green and White Pinwheel Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Moss Green and White Pinwheel Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern Pattern

I live in a house surrounded by trees, and every spring I watch the ferns in the garden slowly uncurl. When I first saw these spokes swirl on my hook, I thought of those ferns right away. I chose moss green, a pale pistachio and white to bring that same fresh, quiet feeling indoors. Now, even in the middle of winter, I can look at my bed and think of the first green days of spring.

I love how the spokes appear. In the first rounds they are just little bumps, and you might wonder if anything is happening at all. Then, around the fourth round, they stand up from the surface and begin to lean, and suddenly the whole center seems to be turning. It is such a small trick, wrapping a stitch around a post instead of working into its top, but it creates a big effect. I never get tired of it.

I also love the soft color changes. Moss, pistachio and white follow each other round by round, and each new color makes the stripes behind it look fresher. I find it keeps me curious and motivated, because I always want to see the next ring. With such calm colors, the bedspread never feels busy, even though there is a lot going on in every square.

Here is why this bedspread is one of my favorites:

  • The swirling spokes look like ferns unfurling in spring.
  • Two greens and white feel calm, fresh and natural.
  • The raised texture makes every square interesting to touch.
  • The pistachio seams outline the squares like garden paths.
  • The corded edge is firm, neat and long lasting.

This bedspread changed the feel of our bedroom completely. We have light oak furniture, cream walls and big windows looking out over the trees, but the bed always felt a little separate from the view. Now the greens on the bed echo the leaves outside, and the plants on the nightstands look right at home. On a sunny morning, the whole room feels like part of the garden. It is the most restful place in our house.

Making it taught me some helpful lessons. I learned to keep my front post stitches relaxed so the spokes stand up proudly without pulling the stripes inward. I learned to weave in each pair of color ends as soon as I finished a round, which saved me from a huge pile of tails at the end. And I learned to block each square carefully, smoothing the spokes so they all swirl in the same direction across the bed.

Most of all, I love that this bedspread brings the outdoors in. It is practical, washable cotton that can be used every day, and the gentle greens will never go out of style. I hope it will stay in our family for many years and someday cover the bed of a grandchild who loves gardens as much as I do. That would make every stitch worthwhile.


Switch Things Up

The easiest change is the color trio. Keep one deep shade, one pale shade and one neutral, and the stripes and spokes will always show clearly. Terracotta, peach and white feel warm and sunny, while navy, sky blue and white look crisp and coastal. Plum, lavender and cream are soft and romantic, and mustard, butter yellow and white are bright and cheerful. For a neutral look, try taupe, oatmeal and ivory.

You can change the size by changing the number of squares. Each square is 10 inches after blocking, and the edge adds about 2 inches on every side. The sizes below include a drop on the sides and the foot. For a coverlet that sits only on top of the mattress, take away two or three squares in each direction.

  • Twin: 7 by 9 squares (63), about 74 by 94 inches
  • Full: 9 by 10 squares (90), about 94 by 104 inches
  • Queen: 10 by 11 squares (110), about 104 by 114 inches
  • King: 12 by 11 squares (132), about 124 by 114 inches

A sofa throw is a lovely smaller version. Make 5 by 6 squares, thirty in total, for a throw of about 54 by 64 inches with the edge. It takes about thirty hours and uses about a quarter of the yarn. The green pinwheels look beautiful on a cream or oatmeal sofa and bring a breath of fresh air to a living room. It is also a great way to practice the post stitches before you start the full bedspread.

For a baby blanket, make 3 by 4 squares for about 34 by 44 inches, or 4 by 4 squares for a square blanket of about 44 inches. Use a soft baby cotton or cotton blend in the same weight. Mint, pale sage and white are gentle and gender neutral, and soft yellow, butter and white are sweet too. The fabric is solid with a firm edge, but always use it with an adult nearby and keep crochet blankets out of the crib for young babies.

Matching pillows make the bed look finished. Join four squares in a 2 by 2 block for the front of a large sham, and make the back from four more squares or a plain panel of pistachio double crochet. Join front and back with pistachio single crochet on three sides, slip in the pillow and close the last side, then work the corded edge around it. For a lumbar pillow, join three squares in a row. A single square makes a sweet cushion for a garden chair.

You can also stop before the square and keep the octagon. After Round 7, work one round of pistachio single crochet for a round mandala. One mandala makes a lovely table mat or a wall hanging, and a few joined together make a cheerful table runner. In these garden colors, a mandala hung in a sunny window looks like a leaf catching the light.

If you would like a different edge, there are easy options. For a softer finish, replace the reverse single crochet with a round of small shells. To echo the stripes in the squares, work the three edge rounds in moss green, white and pistachio. For a relaxed boho look, add moss green tassels at the four corners. Keep the edge firm, since the bedspread has quite a bit of weight.

You can also play with the yarn weight. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, squares come out at about 8 inches, so you need more of them, but the bedspread is lighter and drapes more. In a bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook, squares grow to about 13 inches, and 8 by 9 squares cover a queen bed much faster. Acrylic or a cotton blend is lighter and warmer. Always make one test square in your new yarn and measure it before you buy the rest.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (4) cotton yarn in white (Color C): about 2,000 g / 4,000 yd (based on 200 yd per 100 g), which includes about 600 yd for the first two edge rounds
02 Worsted weight (4) cotton yarn in pale pistachio green (Color B): about 1,800 g / 3,600 yd, which includes about 550 yd for the joins and the last edge round
03 Worsted weight (4) cotton yarn in moss green (Color A): about 1,250 g / 2,500 yd
04 One or two extra balls of each color from the same dye lot as a safety margin

— Tools Required

05 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
06 Yarn needle
07 Stitch markers
08 Scissors
09 Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
10 Measuring tape
11 Spray bottle with water

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 110-140 Hours

0% complete

— Green Pinwheel Square (Make 110, moss green, pistachio and white) :

Color A is moss green, Color B is pale pistachio green and Color C is white. Rounds 1 to 7 change color every round in the order A, B, C, A, B, C, A. Rounds 8 to 10 are worked in C and Round 11 in B. Join each new color in the first st of a section and fasten off the old color. The beginning ch-3 counts as a dc throughout.
Fpdc: yo, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the st below, yo and pull up a loop, (yo and pull through 2 loops) twice. Skip the st behind the fpdc.
Round 1: With A, make a magic ring. Ch 3, 15 dc in the ring. Pull the ring closed and sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off A. (16 dc)
Round 2: Join B. Ch 3, dc in the same st, fpdc around next st, *2 dc in next st, fpdc around next st; rep from * 6 more times. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off B. (24 sts: 16 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 3 sts)
Round 3: Join C. Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, fpdc around next fpdc, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, fpdc around next fpdc; rep from * 6 more times. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off C. (32 sts: 24 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 4 sts)
Round 4: Join A. Ch 3, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, fpdc around next fpdc, *dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, fpdc around next fpdc; rep from * 6 more times. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off A. (40 sts: 32 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 5 sts)
Round 5: Join B. Work as Round 4, with dc in each st of the section up to the last dc, 2 dc in the last dc and fpdc around the fpdc. Fasten off B. (48 sts: 40 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 6 sts)
Round 6: Join C. Work as Round 5. Fasten off C. (56 sts: 48 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 7 sts)
Round 7: Join A. Work as Round 5. Fasten off A. (64 sts: 56 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 8 sts)
Round 8 turns the octagon into a square. Mark the fpdc of every other section: these 4 sts are the corners. Each side has 15 sts between two corner fpdc, with the fpdc of the other section in the middle.
Round 8: Join C in any marked corner fpdc. Ch 4 (counts as tr), (tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in the same st, *dc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in each of next 3 sts, sc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in each of next 3 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts**, (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in the next marked corner st; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-4 to join. (76 sts: 16 tr, 24 dc, 24 hdc, 12 sc; 19 sts on each side between corner sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 9: Sl st in next tr and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, *dc in each of next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in each of next 13 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in each of next 2 sts**, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. (84 dc, 8 ch-1 eyelets, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 10: Sl st in next dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, *dc in each dc and in each ch-1 eyelet across**, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off C. (108 dc: 27 dc on each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 11: Join B in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same sp, *sc in each dc across**, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (116 sc: 29 sc on each side counting the corner sc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Rounds 1 to 7 measure about 7.5 inches (19 cm) across the octagon. Block each finished square to 10 by 10 inches (25 by 25 cm), smoothing the spokes so they all swirl the same way.

— Layout (10 x 11 grid, 110 squares) :

All 110 squares are the same, so there is no chart. Lay them out right side up with the spokes all swirling in the same direction.
Rows 1 to 11: Place 10 squares side by side in each row, matching the corners carefully. (11 rows x 10 squares = 110 squares)
Mix squares made on different days across the grid, so any small differences in tension are spread out.

— Pistachio Seam Join (Color B) :

Join all horizontal seams first, one full row at a time, then all vertical seams. Hold two squares wrong sides together so the seam forms a slim pistachio ridge on the right side.
Step 1: Join B through both corner ch-2 sps at the start of the seam. Ch 1, sc through both corner sps. (1 sc)
Step 2: Sc through both loops of both squares in each of the 29 sc along the side. (29 sc)
Step 3: Sc through both corner ch-2 sps at the end of the seam. (1 sc, 31 sc for the whole seam)
Step 4: Ch 1, pick up the next pair of squares and work Steps 1 to 3 again, continuing to the end of the row. Fasten off at the end of each long seam. (1 ch between pairs)
On the vertical seams, ch 1 across each place where four corners meet, so the crossing stays flat. Keep the seam relaxed and stretch it gently as you go.

— White and Pistachio Corded Edge :

The counts below are for the 10 x 11 queen grid: 10 squares and 9 seams on each short side, 11 squares and 10 seams on each long side.
Round 1: Join C in any outer corner ch-2 sp of the bedspread. Ch 1, 3 sc in the same sp, *[sc in each of the 29 sc along the side of the square, then 3 sc across the seam: 1 sc in the corner sp of this square, 1 sc in the top of the seam and 1 sc in the corner sp of the next square] across the side, working the last square up to its outer corner without the seam sts, 3 sc in the outer corner sp; rep from * 3 more times, omitting the last 3-sc corner. Sl st in the first sc to join. (1,344 sc: 319 sc on each short side and 351 sc on each long side between the 4 center corner sts)
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in each st around, working 3 hdc in each center corner st. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-2 to join. Fasten off C. (1,352 hdc: 321 hdc on each short side and 353 hdc on each long side between the 4 new center corner sts)
Round 3: Join B in any st. Ch 1, working from left to right, reverse sc in each st around. Sl st in the first st to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (1,352 reverse sc)
For any other grid, each side of Round 1 has 32 sc per square minus 1, so you can work out your own counts before you start.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make 110 Green Pinwheel Squares, weaving in the color change ends after each round as you go.
  2. Block every square to 10 by 10 inches, pinning the corners square and smoothing the spokes in one direction, and let them dry completely.
  3. Lay the squares out in 11 rows of 10 following the Layout section, with all the spokes swirling the same way.
  4. Work all the horizontal seams with the Pistachio Seam Join, wrong sides together, one full row at a time.
  5. Work all the vertical seams the same way, with a ch 1 across each place where four corners meet.
  6. Work Rounds 1 to 3 of the White and Pistachio Corded Edge around the whole bedspread.
  7. Weave in the last ends and give the finished bedspread a final light blocking on a clean floor.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Wrapping the wrong post. From Round 3 on, every fpdc must go around the fpdc of the round below. If you wrap a plain double crochet by mistake, the spoke jumps sideways, the swirl breaks and that section ends up with the wrong number of stitches. It happens most often right after a color change, when the new loops hide the raised stitch. Before you reach the end of each section, find the spoke with your fingertip and follow it down to its post. Insert the hook around that post only. At the end of every round, count 8 raised spokes.

Spokes that squeeze the octagon. Front post stitches need a little extra yarn, and if they are worked tightly, they pull each round inward and the octagon begins to cup like a bowl. A cupped octagon will never become a flat square, however hard you block it. Pull up each loop to the full height of the round before you finish the fpdc, and keep your plain double crochet relaxed as well. Lay the octagon flat after Round 7. If it cups, try half a size larger hook for the post stitch rounds.

A crooked squaring round. Round 8 needs exactly 15 stitches between corners, in the order 3 dc, 3 hdc, 3 sc, 3 hdc and 3 dc. If one side gets 14 or 16, the square slants and the eyelets in Round 9 end up off center. Mark the four corner spokes before you start the round, and count every side as you work it. The middle single crochet should sit right on top of the other spoke on that side, which makes a handy checkpoint. Count 19 stitches between corner spaces when you finish.

A mountain of ends. The center has a color change on every round, so each square leaves around fourteen tails. If you save them all for the end, you will face well over a thousand ends to weave in before you can use the bedspread. Weave in each pair of tails as soon as you finish the round, or crochet over them in the next round so they are trapped inside the stitches. Trim them neatly on the back. It takes a few extra minutes per square but saves weeks of tedious work later.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves garden colors, textured stitches and cozy heirloom pieces for the home.



Important Notes

Gauge and square size matter in this pattern. With worsted weight cotton and a 5 mm hook, Rounds 1 to 7 should measure about 7.5 inches (19 cm) across the octagon, and the finished square should block to 10 inches (25 cm). Make one square and block it before you buy all your yarn. If it is smaller, go up a hook size. If it is larger, go down a size. All the grid sizes in this pattern assume a 10 inch square.

Block every square before you join. Pin it to a blocking mat at 10 by 10 inches with straight sides and square corners, and smooth the spokes with your fingers so they all lean the same way. Spray with water until damp and let it dry completely. Blocking flattens the octagon, sharpens the corners and makes every square the same size. Block the whole bedspread once more after the edge is done.

This bedspread uses about 2,000 grams of white, 1,800 grams of pistachio and 1,250 grams of moss green for the queen size. Buy all of it at once, and check that every ball of each color has the same dye lot number. Greens in particular can shift from lot to lot, and a change in shade would show clearly in the stripes. Buy one or two extra balls of each color so you do not run short.

Wash the bedspread on a gentle cold cycle in a large machine, or by hand in a bathtub, with a mild detergent. Moss green sits right against white, so always add a color catcher sheet, especially in the first several washes. Never use bleach, which would fade the greens and spot the white. Do not wring or twist it. Press out the water with towels and lay it flat to dry. Avoid the dryer, which can shrink cotton.


I hope this bedspread brings the fresh, peaceful feeling of a spring garden into your bedroom, whatever the season outside your window. It is a long project, but every square holds little moments of delight: a moss green ring, a new color each round, eight spokes that begin to swirl, and a crisp white frame around them. Do not let the number one hundred and ten worry you. You do not have to make them all today. You only have to make the first one.

So gather your moss, pistachio and white, find a sunny spot and a cup of tea, and start with that little ring of sixteen double crochet. Watch the spokes rise and the swirl begin, then square it off and block it flat. Hold it up to the window and imagine your whole bed covered in green pinwheels. Then make another. Before you know it, you will have a bedspread to treasure for many years. Happy crocheting, my friends.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 A — Color A, moss green
02 B — Color B, pale pistachio green
03 C — Color C, white
04 ch — chain
05 sl st — slip stitch
06 sc — single crochet
07 hdc — half double crochet
08 dc — double crochet
09 tr — treble crochet
10 fpdc — front post double crochet
11 reverse sc — reverse single crochet (crab stitch), worked from left to right
12 yo — yarn over
13 sk — skip
14 st(s) — stitch(es)
15 sp(s) — space(s)
16 ch-2 sp — the space made by 2 chains (same for ch-1)
17 rep — repeat

You Ask, We Answer

What is the finished size of this bedspread?

The bedspread in the photos measures about 104 by 114 inches (264 by 290 cm) including the edge. It is made from 110 squares in a grid of 10 across and 11 down, and each square measures 10 inches after blocking. The white and pistachio corded edge adds about 2 inches on each side. On a standard queen mattress, which is 60 by 80 inches, this size gives a drop of about 22 inches on each side and at the foot, so the bedspread reaches close to the floor, with extra length at the head to tuck under the pillows. If your bed is taller or lower, measure from the top of the mattress to the floor and add or remove squares to suit. Remember that a 10 inch square depends on your gauge, so measure your first blocked square and multiply by the number of squares you plan before you buy all your yarn. The variations section lists grids for twin, full and king beds too.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make it smaller?

Yes. The pattern works in any yarn weight, but the size of each square will change, so you need to adjust the number of squares. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, squares come out at about 8 inches, and you would need about 13 by 14 squares for the same queen size. In a bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook, squares grow to about 13 inches, and 8 by 9 squares cover a queen bed. To make a smaller piece, simply make fewer squares: thirty squares in a 5 by 6 grid make a sofa throw, and twelve to sixteen squares make a baby blanket. The rounds and stitch counts of the square stay exactly the same in every case, and so do the join and the edge method. For the edge, each side of Round 1 has 32 sc per square minus 1, so you can work out your own counts before you begin.

How do I wash and care for the bedspread?

Cotton is easy to care for, but a bedspread this size is heavy when wet, so treat it gently. Wash it on a cold, gentle cycle in a large capacity machine, or by hand in the bathtub with a mild detergent. Always add a color catcher sheet, because the moss green can release a little dye onto the white stripes, especially in the first several washes. Never use bleach, as it weakens cotton and would fade the greens. Do not hang it wet from a line, since the weight will stretch the squares and pull the edge out of shape. Instead, press out the water with towels and lay it flat to dry, smoothing the spokes as you go. Between seasons, fold it loosely and store it in a cotton bag, not plastic, with a sachet of lavender or cedar to keep moths away.