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Daisy Sunrise Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Daisy Sunrise Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
210-240 Hours 0 made this
Intermediate Level

You need puff stitches, granny clusters and simple rows worked across two sides of a square.

About 225 Hours

Each square takes about an hour, so one square a day becomes a full bed cover in around seven months.

A Sunrise In Every Square

A little daisy sits low in each square while lavender and yellow puff arcs rise above it like morning light.

About This Daisy Sunrise Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This daisy sunrise bed cover is made from cheerful granny squares, and every square tells a tiny story. Near the bottom point sits a cream daisy with a golden-yellow center and little green leaves around it. Above the daisy, a lavender arc rises, then two golden-yellow arcs, like the sun coming up over a spring garden. Each square is framed in cream. The squares are set on point, so they sit on the bed as diamonds, and the edges of the cover finish in soft cream zigzag points that hang over the sides of the bed. It is bright, happy and full of color.

Each square starts with the daisy. You make a yellow magic ring of double crochet for the center, then work eight cream puff stitches around it for the petals. A green round of granny clusters turns the round flower into a small square and adds the leaves between the petals. A cream granny round finishes that little square. This is the clever part: instead of working the next rounds all the way around, you work rows across only two sides of the square, with a corner at the top. That makes the square grow toward one point, so the daisy stays low and the colored arcs rise above it.

The arcs are made with puff stitches, which are plump and soft and give the cover its lovely bumpy texture. You work one row of lavender puffs and two rows of golden-yellow puffs, each with a corner increase at the top. A final row of cream puffs softens the color into the frame. Two cream rounds then go all the way around the square to make the sides straight and even. The first is double crochet, which fills in the row ends on the lower sides, and the second is single crochet, which gives a crisp outline and makes joining easy.

The finished bed cover measures about 99 by 109 inches. Each square is about 7 inches on each side after blocking, and about 10 inches from point to point. The cover uses 200 squares in 21 diagonal rows that alternate between 10 and 9 squares. On a queen bed, it covers the top and drops about 19 inches on each side and about 29 inches at the foot, with the zigzag points reaching toward the floor. I used worsted weight matte cotton with a 5 mm hook, which makes plump puffs that hold their shape.

The finished bed cover feels warm and soft, with real texture under your hand. The puff stitches are thick and squishy, and the cream frames keep the colors organized so the design never looks busy. Cotton keeps it breathable, so it is comfortable in spring and summer and cozy layered over a blanket in winter. The colors bring sunshine into a room on even the grayest day. Golden yellow, lavender and leaf green are a classic garden trio, and they look especially pretty against warm wood furniture and natural rugs.

This pattern suits an intermediate crocheter who has made granny squares before and is comfortable with puff stitches. If you have never made a puff stitch, practice a few on a scrap of yarn first, because keeping the loops even takes a little patience. The rows across two sides may feel unusual at first, but after two or three squares you will see how simple they are. Every square is small enough to carry in a bag, which makes this a lovely long project to work on wherever you are. A stack of happy squares grows faster than you expect.

Daisy Sunrise Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Daisy Sunrise Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love this bed cover because every square makes me smile. There is something so hopeful about a little daisy with the sun rising above it. When I finish a square and see the lavender and yellow arcs sitting just right over the flower, I feel like I made a tiny piece of spring. I kept my finished squares in a basket by my chair, and every evening I would add one more and admire the growing pile of sunshine.

Puff stitches are one of my favorite stitches. They are soft, round and a little bit squishy, and they make crochet look so rich and full. In this pattern, the puffs give the arcs a lovely raised texture that catches the light. When the sun comes through my bedroom window in the morning, the yellow puffs almost glow. It is the kind of texture you want to run your hand over every time you walk past the bed. Puffs also feel wonderful when you curl up under the cover.

I also love that this square is a little different from a classic granny square. Working rows across two sides lets the design rise toward one point, and that is what gives each square its sunrise look. It is a simple trick, but it changes everything. When I first tried it, I could not believe how easy it was. Now I use the same idea for coasters, pillow covers and baby blankets, because it turns any center motif into something special.

  • Small, portable squares that are quick to finish.
  • Plump puff stitches with lovely texture.
  • Squares set on point for a pretty zigzag edge.
  • Four cheerful colors that brighten any room.

This cover truly changes a bedroom. Before I made it, my room felt plain and a little dull. Now it feels like a sunny cottage room in the country, and it puts me in a good mood every morning. Friends always ask about it, and they are amazed when I tell them every square was made by hand. A handmade bed cover brings a warmth that no store-bought bedding can match, and you notice it the moment you walk into the room.

Making this cover also taught me a lot. I learned to keep my puff stitches the same height by pulling every loop up to the same length. I learned to weave in my ends as I go, because four colors in each square means many tails. And I learned that setting squares on point is not hard at all, it just takes a little planning before joining. If you have been looking for a big, joyful project that uses up colorful yarn and gives you something to treasure, I think you will love this one.


Switch Things Up

The first and easiest change is the color palette. Keep the cream daisy and frames and change the arcs to other colors. Soft pink and coral arcs feel warm and romantic, like a summer sunset. Sky blue and navy arcs make a cool, coastal look. Peach and terracotta arcs give a cozy autumn feel. You can also make the daisy petals white instead of cream for a brighter look. Choose a darker shade for the first arc and a lighter shade for the outer arcs, so the sunrise glows outward from the flower.

You can make this bed cover for any bed size by changing the number of squares. Each square measures about 10 inches from point to point, and each diagonal row adds about 5 inches in length. Here are the layouts I use:

  • Twin: 15 diagonal rows of 8 and 7 squares, 113 squares, about 79 by 79 inches.
  • Full: 17 diagonal rows of 9 and 8 squares, 145 squares, about 89 by 89 inches.
  • Queen: 21 diagonal rows of 10 and 9 squares, 200 squares, about 99 by 109 inches.
  • King: 21 diagonal rows of 11 and 10 squares, 221 squares, about 109 by 109 inches.

For a sofa throw, make 11 diagonal rows of 5 and 4 squares, which uses 50 squares and finishes at about 50 by 59 inches. A throw is a great way to try the pattern before you commit to a whole bed cover. It is also a lovely gift, because the bright colors and the zigzag edge make it look special even folded on a chair. If you make one square most evenings, you can finish a throw in under two months.

A baby blanket looks sweet in this pattern too. Make 7 diagonal rows of 4 and 3 squares for 25 squares, about 40 by 40 inches. Use a soft cotton or cotton blend and gentle colors like pale yellow, lilac and mint for the arcs. The puff stitches make it cozy and squishy for tummy time on the floor or a stroller ride. Families often keep a handmade baby blanket for years, so it becomes a gift that is remembered long after the baby grows.

You can also lay the squares out in a straight grid instead of on point. Turn every square so the daisy sits in the bottom left corner, and the arcs all rise toward the top right, like rays of sun moving across the bed. For a queen size straight grid, join 14 squares across and 15 down. This layout has a straight edge all around, so it is easier to finish with a simple border. Lay out a few squares on the floor to see which look you prefer.

To make matching pillow covers, join squares on point into a small diamond panel, or use a straight grid of 3 by 4 squares for a standard pillow. Make two panels and join them on three sides with cream single crochet, then slip in a pillow and close the last side. Choose a pillow insert in cream or yellow so the gaps between the puffs show a matching color. Matching pillows make the whole bed look planned and pulled together.

Finally, you can change the yarn weight. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, each square is about 5.5 inches on each side, so a queen needs about 25 diagonal rows of 13 and 12 squares. In bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook, a square grows to about 9 inches, and a queen needs only about 15 diagonal rows of 8 and 7 squares. Bulky yarn makes a chunky, extra cozy cover that works up fast. Always make one test square first and measure it after blocking before you plan your layout.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (4) matte cotton yarn in golden yellow: about 1,800 g (about 3,600 yards) for 200 squares (about 9 g each)
02 Worsted weight (4) matte cotton yarn in lavender: about 1,000 g (about 2,000 yards) for 200 squares (about 5 g each)
03 Worsted weight (4) matte cotton yarn in cream: about 2,850 g (about 5,700 yards) for 200 squares (about 13 g each), joining and the border
04 Worsted weight (4) matte cotton yarn in leaf green: about 600 g (about 1,200 yards) for 200 squares (about 3 g each)
05 Buy about 10 percent extra of each color from the same dye lot

— Tools Required

06 5 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
07 Yarn needle for weaving in ends
08 Stitch markers
09 Sharp scissors
10 Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
11 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 210-240 Hours

0% complete

— Daisy Sunrise Square (Make 200: golden yellow, cream, leaf green and lavender) :

Puff: (yo, insert hook in st or sp, yo and pull up a loop to about half an inch) 3 times, yo and pull through all 7 loops on hook. Make one test square and block it. It should measure about 7 inches on each side.
Rnd 1: With golden yellow, MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), 15 dc in ring, pull ring closed, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off. (16 dc)
Rnd 2: Join cream in sp between any 2 dc, ch 1, puff in same sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, *puff in next sp between dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc; rep from * around, sl st in top of first puff to join. Fasten off. (8 puffs, 8 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 3: Join leaf green in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * twice more, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off. (36 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 8 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 4: Join cream in any corner sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner sp; rep from * twice more, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off. (48 dc: 12 dc on each side, 3 ch-1 sps on each side, 4 corner sps)
Turn the square so one corner points up. Call it the top corner. The corners to its left and right are corner L and corner R, and the one at the bottom is the bottom corner. Rows 5 to 8 are worked only across the two upper sides, from corner L to corner R, always on the right side.
Row 5: With lavender, join in corner L sp, ch 1, puff in same sp, ch 1, (puff, ch 1) in each of next 3 ch-1 sps, (puff, ch 2, puff) in top corner sp, ch 1, (puff, ch 1) in each of next 3 ch-1 sps, puff in corner R sp. Fasten off. (10 puffs: 5 on each side, 8 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 corner sp)
Row 6: With golden yellow, join in top of first puff, ch 1, puff in same st, ch 1, (puff, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to top corner, (puff, ch 2, puff) in corner sp, ch 1, (puff, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp across, puff in top of last puff. Fasten off. (12 puffs: 6 on each side, 10 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 corner sp)
Row 7: With golden yellow, work as Row 6. Fasten off. (14 puffs: 7 on each side, 12 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 corner sp)
Row 8: With cream, work as Row 6. Do not fasten off. (16 puffs: 8 on each side, 14 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 corner sp)
Rnd 9: Continue with cream. Ch 3 (counts as dc), (ch 2, dc) in top of last puff of Row 8 for corner R. Down the lower right side: 2 dc in side of each of Rows 8, 7 and 6, 1 dc in side of Row 5, dc in each of the 12 dc and 3 ch-1 sps of Rnd 4 to the bottom corner (22 dc). (Dc, ch 2, dc) in bottom corner sp. Up the lower left side: dc in each of the 12 dc and 3 ch-1 sps of Rnd 4, 1 dc in side of Row 5, 2 dc in side of each of Rows 6, 7 and 8 (22 dc). (Dc, ch 2, dc) in top of first puff of Row 8 for corner L. Across the upper sides: dc in each puff and 2 dc in each ch-1 sp to the top corner (22 dc), (dc, ch 2, dc) in top corner sp, dc in each puff and 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across (22 dc), sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (96 dc: 24 dc on each side counted between corner sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in corner sp, sc in each dc across to next corner; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. (104 sc: 26 sc on each side counted between corner sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

— Layout :

Set every square on point, with the daisy at the bottom point and the sunrise arcs at the top point.
The queen layout has 21 horizontal rows of diamonds. Odd rows (1, 3, 5 and so on up to 21) have 10 squares, and even rows have 9 squares, set halfway between the squares above and below. That is 11 rows of 10 plus 10 rows of 9, for 200 squares.
Every square touches up to four neighbors along its sides. Join with cream: hold two squares right sides together and sl st through the back loops only from corner sp to corner sp (28 sl sts per seam: 1 in each corner sp and 1 in each of the 26 sc). Join the squares into long diagonal strips first, then join the strips to each other.
The finished outer edge has 80 open square sides, 42 outward points and 38 inward valleys, which create the zigzag edge.

— Border (cream) :

Border Rnd 1: Join cream in any sc on an outer edge, ch 1, sc in each sc along every open side, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner sp at each outward point and sc2tog over the two joined corner sps at each inward valley, sl st in first sc to join. (2,202 sts: 2,080 sc on 80 open sides plus 84 sc at 42 points plus 38 sc2tog at valleys, 42 ch-2 sps)
Border Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, (sc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-2 sp at the points and sc3tog centered over each sc2tog at the valleys, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. (2,210 sts: 2,202 sts plus 84 sc at points minus 76 sts taken in at valleys, 42 ch-2 sps)
For other sizes, Border Rnd 1 has 26 sc for every open side, 2 sc for every outward point and 1 sc2tog for every valley.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make one Daisy Sunrise Square, block it and check that it measures about 7 inches on each side.
  2. Make all 200 squares, weaving in the ends of each square as you finish it.
  3. Block the squares in batches so they are all the same size before joining.
  4. Lay the squares on point in 21 rows that alternate 10 and 9 squares, with every daisy at the bottom point.
  5. Join the squares with cream slip stitches through the back loops, first into diagonal strips and then strip to strip.
  6. Work Border Rounds 1 and 2 around the whole zigzag edge.
  7. Block the finished bed cover flat, pinning each outward point, and let it dry completely.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

The most common mistake is making puff stitches of different heights. If you pull up some loops long and others short, the arcs look bumpy and uneven, and the rows across the top of the square will not lie flat. This happens because it is hard to judge loop length when you are relaxed and chatting. To fix it, pull every loop up to about half an inch, the height of a double crochet, before you yarn over again. Some makers place a finger on the loops to hold them steady. If a whole row looks wavy, pull it out and redo it.

Another mistake is working Rows 5 to 8 around the whole square instead of across only two sides. If you keep going around like a normal granny round, the daisy ends up in the middle and the sunrise look disappears. This usually happens on the first few squares, out of habit. To avoid it, turn the square so a corner points up and place stitch markers in corner L and corner R before you start Row 5. Every row starts at one marker and ends at the other. Then fasten off, rejoin on the right side and start again.

Many makers miscount the row ends in Round 9, and the lower sides come out shorter or longer than the upper sides. The upper sides are made of puffs and spaces, while the lower sides are made of the small square and the ends of four rows. If you put only one double crochet in each row end, the lower sides pull tight and the square becomes a kite shape. Work 2 dc in the sides of Rows 8, 7 and 6 and 1 dc in the side of Row 5. Count 22 dc on every side before you move on.

The last common mistake is joining squares with the daisies pointing in different directions. Because the design rises toward one point, a square turned sideways or upside down breaks the neat rows of sunrises across the bed. This is easy to miss when you are joining a big stack. Lay out a full row on the floor before joining and place a stitch marker on the top corner of every square. Check that all markers point toward the head of the bed. If one square is turned, undo only its seams and turn it back.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves turning cheerful granny squares into cozy heirloom bed covers and home pieces.



Important Notes

Gauge matters because small differences add up across 200 squares. A blocked square should measure about 7 inches on each side. If yours is a quarter inch larger, the bed cover will grow by several inches in each direction, and you will need more yarn. Make one test square and block it before you buy all of your yarn. Check new squares against your first square every few weeks, because tension often changes during a long project.

Blocking makes the squares straight and even and the zigzag points crisp. Pin each square to a blocking mat at 7 inches on each side, mist it with cool water and let it dry fully. Be gentle with the puffs; do not press them flat. After joining and working the border, block the whole bed cover again, placing a pin at every outward point so the zigzag edge hangs evenly over the sides of the bed.

The yarn amounts are for the queen size in worsted weight cotton, so adjust them for other sizes or yarns. Buy all of each color from the same dye lot if you can, plus about 10 percent extra. Cream and yellow can look quite different from one lot to the next, and a small change shows across a large cover. If you must use two lots, mix squares from both lots evenly across the layout so any difference is spread out.

Wash the bed cover by hand or on a gentle cold cycle inside a large mesh laundry bag. Because lavender, green and golden yellow sit right next to cream in every square, add a color catcher sheet to the first few washes in case any dye bleeds. Use a mild detergent and no bleach. Do not hang the cover to dry, because wet cotton is heavy and will stretch. Lay it flat on towels, shape the squares and points, and let it dry completely.


I hope this daisy sunrise bed cover brings a little morning sunshine into your bedroom every day. It is a big project, but each square is a small, happy step, and that tiny daisy with its rising arcs will make you smile every single time you finish one. Take your time with the puffs, and enjoy watching your basket of squares fill up.

You do not have to think about all 200 squares today. Just pick up your golden yellow yarn, make a magic ring and finish one square. Then make another tomorrow. Before long, you will lay them out on the floor as diamonds and see a whole garden of sunrises come to life. Happy crocheting, my friend.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sc — single crochet
03 dc — double crochet
04 puff — puff stitch: (yo, insert hook, yo and pull up a loop) 3 times, yo and pull through all 7 loops
05 yo — yarn over
06 sc2tog — single crochet 2 together
07 sc3tog — single crochet 3 together
08 sl st — slip stitch
09 MR — magic ring
10 beg — beginning
11 sk — skip
12 st(s) — stitch(es)
13 sp(s) — space(s)
14 rep — repeat
15 Rnd — round

You Ask, We Answer

What is the finished size of this bed cover?

The queen version finishes at about 99 by 109 inches after blocking, measured from point to point. It uses 200 squares set on point in 21 rows that alternate between 10 and 9 squares. Each square is about 7 inches on each side and about 10 inches from point to point. On a standard queen mattress, the cover lies across the top and drops about 19 inches on each side and about 29 inches at the foot, with the zigzag points reaching toward the floor on most bed frames. If your bed is taller, add one more square to each row and two more rows. If you prefer a coverlet that stops at the side of the mattress, use the full layout. Measure your own bed, including the mattress and frame height, and plan from your blocked square size before you buy yarn.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make a different size?

Yes, the pattern works in many yarn weights because the square is the same in every size. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, each square is about 5.5 inches on each side, and in bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook it grows to about 9 inches. The stitch counts never change, only the square size and the number of squares you need. Make one test square in your chosen yarn, block it and measure it from point to point. Divide your bed width by that number to get the squares per long row, and divide your length by half that number to get the number of rows. The section on switching things up lists layouts for twin, full, queen, king, a throw and a baby blanket. The border always fits, because it follows the open sides, points and valleys of any layout.

How do I wash and care for this crochet bed cover?

Wash it by hand in cool water or on a gentle cold cycle inside a large mesh laundry bag to protect the puff stitches and seams. Use a mild detergent and never use bleach, because it can fade the colors and weaken the cotton. Add a color catcher sheet to the first few washes, since lavender, green and golden yellow sit right next to cream in every square and some dyes can bleed. Do not wring or twist the cover. Gently press out the water, then lay it flat on clean towels and shape the squares and zigzag points with your hands. Let it dry completely before putting it back on the bed. Never hang it while wet, because the weight of the wet cotton will stretch it. Between seasons, fold it loosely and store it in a breathable cotton bag, away from direct sunlight.