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Lavender Lace Medallion Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Lavender Lace Medallion Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
180-210 Hours 0 made this
Intermediate Level

You need double crochet, chain loops and careful counting to place the eyelets in each round.

About 195 Hours

Each square takes about an hour and a half, so a square a day becomes a full bed cover in under four months.

One Color Only

The whole design lives in the stitches, so there are no color changes and very few ends to weave in.

About This Lavender Lace Medallion Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This lavender lace bed cover is made from large lace squares in one soft, dreamy color. Each square has a round spoked wheel at its heart, surrounded by a ring of eight petal-shaped openings. Around that, little diamonds of eyelets point toward every corner, and solid rounds of double crochet frame the lace and make the square sturdy. Because the whole cover is one color, the pattern comes from light and shadow alone. When sunlight falls across the bed, every opening glows, and the squares look like delicate lace medallions laid side by side.

Each square is worked in rounds from the center out. You begin with a magic ring of double crochet, then work a round of spokes with chain spaces between them, so the center looks like a little wheel. A round of double crochet fills the spokes, and then two rounds of chain loops create the ring of petal openings. Next, you fill the loops with double crochet and turn the circle into a square with four corners. The last part of the square is where the eyelets appear: in three rounds you leave small chain spaces in planned spots, so they step outward and form a diamond near each corner.

Three solid rounds finish each square. Two rounds of double crochet build a wide, calm border around the lace, and a round of single crochet gives a neat edge with exactly 38 stitches on each side, which makes joining easy. The squares are joined with single crochet on the right side, wrong sides together, so each seam forms a small raised ridge. Those ridges create the soft grid lines you see across the bed in the photo. They also add strength, which is helpful in a big lace piece that will be used and washed often.

The finished bed cover measures about 95 by 105 inches. That is 10 squares across and 11 squares down, which makes 110 squares, each about 9.5 inches across after blocking. On a queen bed, it covers the top and drops about 17 inches on each side and about 25 inches at the foot, reaching toward the floor on most frames. I used worsted weight matte cotton with a 4.5 mm hook, which gives clear stitch definition and crisp openings. The section on switching things up gives you square counts for twin, full, king, a throw, a baby blanket and matching pillows.

The finished cover has a gentle weight and a lovely drape. The solid rounds keep it substantial, while the openings keep it airy and breathable, so it is comfortable in warm weather and pretty layered over a blanket in winter. Lavender is calm and restful, a natural fit for a bedroom, and it pairs beautifully with white furniture, brass lamps and fresh flowers. Because every square is the same color, the cover looks elegant rather than busy, and the lace details reward anyone who takes a closer look.

This pattern suits an intermediate crocheter who is comfortable working in the round and counting chain spaces. The stitches are all basic, but the eyelet rounds need attention so the diamonds line up in every square. After a few squares, you will know the rhythm by heart. Since you only use one color, the work is relaxing, and there are very few ends to weave in. Each square is a good size for an evening of crochet, and it is easy to carry in a small bag, so your stack of lavender squares will grow steadily week after week.

Lavender Lace Medallion Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Lavender Lace Medallion Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love this bed cover because it is so calm. There is no switching colors, no bobbins and no busy pattern to follow, just one soft lavender yarn and a hook. That simplicity lets me relax into the rhythm of the stitches. When I sit down with a square in the evening, my shoulders drop and my mind slows down. By the end of the hour, I have something beautiful in my hands, and I feel rested rather than tired.

Lavender has always felt like a gentle color to me. It reminds me of the lilac bush in my mother's garden and the little sachets she tucked into our linen drawer. A whole bed in this color feels like a soft sigh at the end of the day. It is restful without being dull, and it makes white furniture and brass details look even prettier. Every time I walk into my bedroom and see the lace squares lying across the bed, I feel a little more peaceful.

The lace itself is what makes this project special. Because the cover is all one color, the design comes from light shining through the openings. In the morning, the sun throws tiny wheel and petal shadows across the floor. In the evening, under lamp light, the squares look soft and almost velvety. I love that a single color can show so much detail. It taught me to really see stitches, and it gave me a new respect for simple lace patterns.

  • One color only, so it is easy to shop and relaxing to work.
  • Very few ends to weave in.
  • Raised seams that add both strength and style.
  • A classic lace look that suits any bedroom.

This bed cover also makes a wonderful gift. I made a smaller throw version for my sister in her favorite soft blue, and she still keeps it on her reading chair years later. People can feel the time and care in a lace piece. It does not look like something you can buy, and that is exactly why it means so much. A full bed cover is a big project, but it becomes an heirloom that can be passed down and loved by the next generation.

Making this cover taught me patience and precision. I learned to count my chain spaces carefully, to check each round against the stitch count before moving on and to block my squares so they all match. I also learned how much a raised seam can add to a design. What I thought would just hold the squares together became one of my favorite details. If you want a big, peaceful project that grows one lovely square at a time, I think you will enjoy this one as much as I did.


Switch Things Up

The easiest change is the color. Because the design is all in the stitches, any solid color works. Soft sage green looks fresh and natural. Dusty rose feels romantic and vintage. Powder blue is calm and airy, and classic ivory gives the cover a timeless heirloom look. A deep plum or navy shows the lace openings very clearly against light sheets underneath, but keep the bedding the same tone so nothing contrasting shows through. Pick a smooth, light-reflecting cotton so the wheel and petals stand out well.

You can make this bed cover for any bed size by changing the number of squares. Each square is about 9.5 inches across after blocking, so divide your bed width and length, including the drop, by 9.5. Here are the counts I use:

  • Twin: 8 by 10 squares, 80 squares, about 76 by 95 inches.
  • Full: 9 by 10 squares, 90 squares, about 86 by 95 inches.
  • Queen: 10 by 11 squares, 110 squares, about 95 by 105 inches.
  • King: 12 by 11 squares, 132 squares, about 114 by 105 inches.

For a sofa throw, join 5 squares across and 6 squares down. That is 30 squares and finishes at about 48 by 57 inches. A throw is a lovely way to try the pattern before committing to a whole bed cover. It drapes beautifully over a chair or the foot of a bed, and it makes a meaningful gift for a birthday or a new home. If you make a square most evenings, you can finish a throw in about a month.

A baby blanket looks sweet in this lace too. Join 4 squares across and 4 down for 16 squares, about 38 inches square. Use a soft cotton or cotton blend in a gentle pastel like pale lilac, mint or buttercream. Because of the lace openings, I see this as a christening blanket or a decorative crib rail blanket used with a grown-up close by. Families often keep a lace baby blanket for generations, so it becomes a treasured keepsake.

You can also change the look of the seams. For a flatter, more seamless finish, join the squares with slip stitch through the back loops on the wrong side, so the seams sink into the fabric. For a bolder grid, join with single crochet in a slightly darker shade of lavender, which outlines every square. You can also join with a lacy chain join, working ch 3 and a slip stitch into each neighbor every few stitches, for an even more delicate look.

To make matching pillow covers, join 2 squares by 3 squares for a panel about 19 by 28 inches, which fits a standard pillow. Make two panels and join them on three sides with single crochet, slip in the pillow and close the last side. For a square cushion, join 2 by 2 squares. Use a pillow insert in the same lavender or a soft grey so the lace openings show a matching color. Matching pillows make the whole bed look planned and finished.

Finally, try a different yarn weight or edge. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, each square is about 7.5 inches, so a queen needs about 13 by 14 squares. In bulky yarn with a 6 mm hook, a square grows to about 12 inches, and a queen needs only about 8 by 9 squares. For the edge, add a picot after every fourth stitch in the last border round for a dainty finish, or work a simple shell edge for more texture. Always make and block a test square before planning your layout.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (4) matte cotton yarn in soft lavender: about 4,500 g (about 9,000 yards) for the queen size, covering 110 squares (about 38 g each), the seams (about 220 g) and the border (about 100 g)
02 Buy about 10 percent extra from the same dye lot for swatching and repairs

— Tools Required

03 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
04 Yarn needle for weaving in ends
05 Stitch markers
06 Sharp scissors
07 Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
08 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 180-210 Hours

0% complete

— Lace Medallion Square (Make 110, lavender) :

Make one test square and block it. It should measure about 9.5 inches on each side. If it is larger, go down a hook size; if smaller, go up a hook size. The beginning ch 3 always counts as a dc.
Rnd 1: MR, ch 3, 15 dc in ring, pull ring closed, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (16 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), *dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. (16 dc, 16 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (32 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 5, sk 3 dc, *sc in next dc, ch 5, sk 3 dc; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. (8 sc, 8 ch-5 lps)
Rnd 5: Sl st in first 3 ch of first ch-5 lp, ch 1, sc in same lp, ch 6, *sc in next ch-5 lp, ch 6; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. (8 sc, 8 ch-6 lps)
Rnd 6: Sl st in first ch-6 lp, ch 3, (3 dc, ch 3, 4 dc) in same lp for the first corner, 8 dc in next lp, *(4 dc, ch 3, 4 dc) in next lp, 8 dc in next lp; rep from * twice more, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (64 dc: 16 dc on each side counted between corner sps, 4 ch-3 corner sps)
Rnd 7: Sl st to first corner sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same sp, *(dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc) 4 times, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next corner sp; rep from * around, omitting the last corner, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. (48 dc: 12 dc and 4 ch-2 sps on each side, 4 ch-3 corner sps)
Rnd 8: Sl st to first corner sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in next 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, (dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc) twice, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next corner sp; rep from * around, omitting the last corner, sl st to join. (80 dc: 20 dc and 2 ch-2 sps on each side, 4 ch-3 corner sps)
Rnd 9: Sl st to first corner sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in next 2 dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in each of next 10 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next corner sp; rep from * around, omitting the last corner, sl st to join. (96 dc: 24 dc and 2 ch-2 sps on each side, 4 ch-3 corner sps)
In Rounds 7, 8 and 9 the eyelets step outward toward each corner and form a small diamond. Check that every side looks the same before you continue.
Rnd 10: Sl st to first corner sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in each dc and 2 dc in each ch-2 sp across to next corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner sp; rep from * around, omitting the last corner, sl st to join. (128 dc: 32 dc on each side, 4 ch-3 corner sps)
Rnd 11: Sl st to first corner sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in each dc across to next corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner sp; rep from * around, omitting the last corner, sl st to join. (144 dc: 36 dc on each side, 4 ch-3 corner sps)
Rnd 12: Sl st to first corner sp, ch 1, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in corner sp, sc in each dc across to next corner; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. (152 sc: 38 sc on each side counted between corner sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

— Layout :

The queen layout is a straight grid of 10 columns by 11 rows: 110 squares. All squares are the same, so they can face any direction.
Join with lavender: hold two squares wrong sides together so the seam ridge sits on the right side, and sc through both loops of both squares from corner sp to corner sp (40 sc per seam: 1 in each corner sp and 1 in each of the 38 sc). Join all rows first, then all columns, working right across the corners.

— Border (lavender) :

Border Rnd 1: Join lavender in any sc on the outer edge, ch 1, sc in each sc around, 1 sc in each pair of joined corner sps at the seams and (sc, ch 2, sc) in each of the 4 outer corner sps, sl st in first sc to join. (1,642 sc: 391 sc on each short edge and 430 sc on each long edge between the outer corner sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Border Rnd 2: Ch 1, rev sc in each sc around and 2 rev sc in each corner sp, sl st in first st to join. Fasten off. (1,650 rev sc)
For other sizes, each short edge in Border Rnd 1 has (squares across x 38) plus (squares across minus 1) plus 2 sc, and each long edge follows the same rule with the squares down.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make one Lace Medallion Square, block it and check that it measures about 9.5 inches on each side.
  2. Make all 110 squares, weaving in the two ends of each square as you finish it.
  3. Block the squares in batches so they are all exactly the same size before joining.
  4. Lay the squares out in a straight grid of 10 across and 11 down.
  5. Join the squares wrong sides together with single crochet so the raised seams sit on the right side, first in rows and then in columns.
  6. Work Border Rounds 1 and 2 around the whole bed cover.
  7. Block the finished bed cover flat, pinning the edges straight, and let it dry completely.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

The most common mistake is misplacing the eyelets in Rounds 7, 8 and 9. If you skip one stitch too many or too few before a chain space, the eyelet moves and the little diamond near the corner turns crooked. Because the square is all one color, these shifts show clearly once the squares are joined side by side. To avoid it, place a stitch marker in the first dc after each corner and count from there on every side. Check the stitch count in brackets at the end of each round. If one side looks different from the others, fix it before working the next round.

Another mistake is pulling the chain loops in Rounds 4 and 5 too tight. When the ch-5 and ch-6 loops are short, the petal openings close up and the center puckers, so the square will not lie flat. This often happens when you crochet tightly to keep the lace neat. Chain loosely and evenly, and let each loop curve gently around the wheel. If your center cups like a bowl, try going up half a hook size just for those two rounds. The openings should look like soft, rounded petals, not narrow slits.

Many makers end up with squares of slightly different sizes, especially in the solid outer rounds. A tiny difference does not matter in one square, but across 110 squares it makes the seams wavy and the grid uneven. This usually comes from tension changing over weeks of work or from using different hooks. Always use the same hook, and measure each square against your first one before you weave in the ends. Block every square to exactly 9.5 inches before joining, and you will have straight seams and a flat, even bed cover.

The last common mistake is joining with the wrong sides facing out, so the seams sink instead of forming neat raised ridges. In this pattern the ridges are part of the design and create the soft grid you see in the photo. If you hold the squares right sides together, the ridge ends up on the back. Always hold the squares wrong sides together, with the right sides facing out, and work the single crochet join through both loops. Check your first seam before you go further, so every seam across the bed matches.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves turning simple lace squares into cozy heirloom bed covers and home pieces.



Important Notes

Gauge matters because small differences add up across 110 squares. A blocked square should measure about 9.5 inches on each side. If yours is a quarter inch larger, the bed cover will grow by 2.5 inches across and almost 3 inches in length, and you will need more yarn. Make one test square and block it before you buy all of your yarn. Measure new squares against your first square every few weeks, because tension often loosens during a long project.

Blocking opens up the lace and shows off the wheel, the petal openings and the eyelets. Pin each square to a blocking mat at 9.5 inches, placing a pin in each corner and along the sides, then mist it with cool water and let it dry completely. Gently open the petal holes with your fingers while the square is damp. After joining and working the border, block the whole bed cover again so the seams and edges lie flat and straight.

The yarn amount is for the queen size in worsted weight cotton, so adjust it for other sizes or yarns. With a single color, dye lot matters even more, because any shade difference shows clearly across a large lavender cover. Buy all of your yarn from the same dye lot at once, plus about 10 percent extra. If you must use two lots, alternate squares from both lots in a checkerboard so any small change is spread evenly across the bed.

Wash the bed cover by hand or on a gentle cold cycle inside a large mesh laundry bag to protect the lace. Use a mild detergent and no bleach, because bleach can fade lavender unevenly. Wash it on its own the first time in case the dye releases a little color. Do not hang the cover to dry, because wet cotton is heavy and will stretch the openings. Lay it flat on towels, shape the squares gently with your hands and let it dry completely.


I hope this lavender lace bed cover brings a little calm into your bedroom and into your crochet time too. It is a big project, but every square is a peaceful hour with one soft yarn and a hook. Take your time with the eyelet rounds, and enjoy watching the wheel and petals appear as you go.

You do not have to think about all 110 squares today. Just make a magic ring and finish one square. Then make another tomorrow. Before long, you will lay your squares out on the bed and see a whole field of lavender lace waiting to be joined. Happy crocheting, my friend.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sc — single crochet
03 dc — double crochet
04 rev sc — reverse single crochet (crab stitch), worked from left to right
05 sl st — slip stitch
06 MR — magic ring
07 beg — beginning
08 sk — skip
09 st(s) — stitch(es)
10 lp(s) — loop(s)
11 sp(s) — space(s)
12 rep — repeat
13 Rnd — round

You Ask, We Answer

What is the finished size of this bed cover?

The queen version finishes at about 95 by 105 inches after blocking. That is 10 squares across and 11 squares down, with each square measuring about 9.5 inches on each side. On a standard queen mattress, the cover lies across the top and drops about 17 inches on each side and about 25 inches at the foot, which reaches toward the floor on most bed frames. If your bed is taller or you want a longer drop, add one more square to each row and column. If you prefer a coverlet that stops at the side of the mattress, use the full layout of 9 by 10 squares. Measure your own bed, including the mattress and frame height, and divide by your blocked square size. That gives you the exact grid for the look you want and helps you buy enough yarn from one dye lot.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make a different size?

Yes, this pattern works in many yarn weights because the square is the same in every size. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, each square is about 7.5 inches across, and in bulky yarn with a 6 mm hook it grows to about 12 inches. The stitch counts never change, only the square size and the number of squares you need. Make one test square in your chosen yarn, block it, measure it and divide your bed size by that number. The section on switching things up lists square counts for twin, full, queen, king, a throw, a baby blanket and pillows. For the border, each short edge needs 38 sc per square, plus one sc at each seam and one at each end, and each long edge follows the same rule. Lighter yarns show the lace openings most clearly.

How do I wash and care for this crochet bed cover?

Wash it by hand in cool water or on a gentle cold cycle inside a large mesh laundry bag to protect the lace openings and seams. Use a mild detergent and never use bleach, because it can fade the lavender unevenly and weaken the cotton. Wash it on its own the first time, in case the dye releases a little color. Do not wring or twist the cover. Gently press out the water, then lay it flat on clean towels and shape the squares and openings with your hands. Let it dry completely before putting it back on the bed. Never hang it while wet, because the weight of the wet cotton will stretch the lace. Between seasons, fold it loosely and store it in a breathable cotton bag, away from direct sunlight, so the soft lavender color stays fresh for many years.