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Red Tulip Arch Window Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Red Tulip Arch Window Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
340-380 Hours 0 made this
Intermediate Level

You need filet mesh, bobbles, back loop single crochet and neat sewing for the tulips and arches.

About 360 Hours

This is a long heirloom project made of many small parts, perfect for a year of happy evenings.

A Tulip Garden Bed

Every arch frames a raised red tulip, and little tulips and flowers bloom in the strips between them.

About This Red Tulip Arch Window Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This red tulip bed cover is a true garden in yarn. Every cream block holds an arched window, like a little garden gate, and inside each arch blooms a large raised red tulip with sage green leaves. The arch is outlined with a row of cream bobbles and a row of red bobbles, and above the arch the block opens into a light cream mesh. Between the blocks run narrow cream strips, each with a small red tulip of its own, and between the rows run cream bands dotted with red bobbles. Where the strips and bands cross, a little red and cream flower sits like a button. A red and cream scalloped edge frames the whole cover.

The cover is made of several simple parts, which keeps every piece small and easy to handle. The arch blocks are worked in filet crochet from the bottom up. Solid blocks of double crochet form the arch window, and open mesh fills the space around it, so the arch shape appears as you follow a simple row plan. Then a cream bobble cord and a red bobble cord are made as narrow strips and sewn along the edge of the arch. These cords give the arch its bold, beaded outline and make it stand out from the mesh.

The tulips are made separately and sewn on. The large tulip is worked in rows of back loop single crochet, which gives the petals soft ribs, and the last row forms three pointed petals at the top. The leaves are worked around a chain with a mix of stitch heights, so they taper to a point, and the stems are simple chains with slip stitches back down. The small tulips on the strips are worked the same way, only smaller. Sewing them on takes a little time, but it is relaxing work and the raised flowers are what make this cover so special.

The finished bed cover measures about 100 by 101 inches with the border. It has 42 arch blocks in 6 rows of 7, with 48 tulip strips, 49 bobble bands and 56 corner flowers joining them together. Each arch block is about 9.75 inches wide and 12 inches tall. On a queen bed, the cover lies across the top and drops about 20 inches on each side and about 21 inches at the foot, with the scalloped border reaching toward the floor. I used worsted weight matte cotton with a 4.5 mm hook, which makes clear filet mesh, plump bobbles and well-shaped tulips.

The finished cover has real weight and texture. The raised tulips and bobbles are soft and dimensional, while the mesh areas keep it from feeling too heavy and let it breathe. Cream, deep red and sage green are a classic cottage combination that feels cheerful, warm and timeless. The cover looks especially lovely in a bedroom with warm wood furniture, soft lamp light and fresh flowers. It brings spring into the room all year long, and it is the kind of piece that makes everyone who walks in stop to look.

This pattern suits an intermediate crocheter who is comfortable with filet crochet, bobbles and sewing small pieces together. None of the stitches are hard, but there are many parts, so it is a project for someone who enjoys a long, slow make and the satisfaction of building something big from small pieces. The good news is that every part is portable. You can make tulips and leaves on the go, work strips and bands while watching television and save the arch blocks and sewing for quiet evenings at home.

Red Tulip Arch Window Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Red Tulip Arch Window Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love this bed cover because it feels like a spring garden that never fades. Tulips have always been one of my favorite flowers. They are simple and bold, and their bright red cups look so cheerful against green leaves. When I see this cover on the bed, with a tulip in every arch and little tulips peeking out between them, it makes me think of walking through a garden gate on a sunny morning. It fills the whole room with happiness.

I also love how many small, satisfying pieces this project has. On a busy day, I can make a small tulip or a few leaves in just a few minutes. On a calm evening, I can work a whole arch block and watch the window shape appear row by row. Each part is finished quickly, and then I add it to my basket. Over the months, I had baskets of tulips, leaves, strips and bands, and putting them all together felt like planting a whole garden at once.

The raised tulips are the heart of this design. Back loop single crochet gives the petals soft ribs that catch the light, and the three pointed petals at the top make each tulip look real. The bobble arches add a beaded frame that feels a little bit vintage and very cozy. I love running my hand over the cover and feeling all those textures: the plump bobbles, the ribbed petals, the smooth leaves and the airy mesh above each arch.

  • Small parts that fit into any spare moment.
  • Raised tulips with soft ribbed petals.
  • Bobble arches that frame every flower.
  • A classic red, cream and green cottage palette.

This cover truly changes a bedroom. My guest room used to look a little plain, and now it feels like a cozy cottage in the countryside. Friends always come closer to look at the tulips and ask how long it took. When I tell them it took most of a year, they understand why it feels so special. A handmade bed cover like this becomes part of the family story. It is the kind of heirloom that gets passed down and treasured for generations.

Making this cover taught me patience and planning. I learned to make all the parts of one kind in batches, so my tension stayed even. I learned to pin every tulip and arch cord before sewing, so each block looks the same. And I learned that a big, detailed project is not overwhelming if you take it one small piece at a time. If you dream of a bed cover full of flowers and texture, I think this tulip garden will make you very happy.


Switch Things Up

The first and easiest change is the tulip color. Red tulips are classic, but you can make them in pink, coral, yellow, purple or white for a completely different garden. A mix of tulip colors across the bed looks like a real spring flower bed. You can also change the background: an ivory or white background feels bright and fresh, while a soft sage background makes the red tulips pop even more. Keep the leaves in a soft green so the flowers always look natural.

You can make this bed cover for any bed size by changing the number of blocks. Each arch block is about 9.75 inches wide and 12 inches tall, and each strip or band adds 3 inches. Here are the layouts I use, before the border:

  • Twin: 5 blocks across and 6 down, 30 blocks, about 64 by 93 inches.
  • Full: 6 blocks across and 6 down, 36 blocks, about 80 by 93 inches.
  • Queen: 7 blocks across and 6 down, 42 blocks, about 92 by 93 inches.
  • King: 8 blocks across and 7 down, 56 blocks, about 105 by 108 inches.

For a sofa throw, make 3 blocks across and 3 down. With its strips, bands and corner flowers, it finishes at about 41 by 48 inches before the border. A throw is a wonderful way to try the pattern before committing to a whole bed cover. It looks lovely folded at the end of a bed or draped over a chair, and it makes a meaningful gift for Mother's Day or a spring birthday. You can finish a throw in about two months of steady evenings.

A table runner is a sweet smaller project. Join 4 blocks in a single row with their strips, and add a bobble band and corner flowers along the top and bottom. It finishes at about 54 by 18 inches before the border. In red and cream, it makes a cheerful centerpiece for a spring table or an Easter brunch. You can also make a single block with its strips and bands as a pillow front or a framed piece of wall art.

You can also make the design simpler. For a quicker version, leave out the small tulips on the strips and work the strips in plain cream. You could also skip the bobble cords and outline each arch with a single round of red surface slip stitch instead. Another idea is to alternate tulip blocks with plain mesh blocks in a checkerboard, which cuts the sewing in half while keeping the garden feel.

To make matching pillow covers, join 2 blocks with 3 strips, 2 bands on top and bottom and 6 corner flowers. That makes a panel about 26 by 18 inches, which fits a standard pillow. Make a plain back panel in cream single crochet or a second tulip panel, then join them around the edges and add a narrow version of the scalloped border. Use a cream pillow insert so the mesh shows a matching color. Matching pillows make the bed look planned and finished.

Finally, try a different yarn weight. In DK cotton with a 3.5 mm hook, each block is about 8 inches wide and 10 inches tall, so a queen needs about 9 blocks across and 7 down. In bulky yarn with a 6 mm hook, a block grows to about 12 by 15 inches, and a queen needs only about 6 across and 5 down. Always make one test block, one tulip and one strip in your chosen yarn and block them before you plan your layout and buy your yarn.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (4) matte cotton yarn in cream: about 5,650 g (about 11,300 yards) for 42 arch blocks, 48 strips, 49 bobble bands, 56 corner flowers, 42 cream bobble cords and the border
02 Worsted weight (4) matte cotton yarn in deep red: about 1,700 g (about 3,400 yards) for 42 large tulips, 48 small tulips, 42 red bobble cords, the bobble rows in the bands, the corner flower petals and the border
03 Worsted weight (4) matte cotton yarn in sage green: about 400 g (about 800 yards) for 84 large leaves, 96 small leaves and 90 stems
04 Buy about 10 percent extra of each color from the same dye lot

— Tools Required

05 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
06 Yarn needle for sewing appliques and weaving in ends
07 Rust-proof pins for placing the tulips and cords
08 Stitch markers
09 Sharp scissors
10 Blocking mats
11 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 340-380 Hours

0% complete

— Arch Window Block (Make 42, cream) :

Filet notes: a block is dc in the next 3 sts; a mesh is ch 2, sk 2, dc in next st. Each row has 13 cells and 40 sts. Turning ch 3 counts as the first dc; when a row starts with a mesh, ch 5 counts as the first dc and ch 2. Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows to 4 inches; the blocked block measures about 9.75 by 12 inches.
Foundation: Ch 42. (42 ch)
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. (40 dc: 13 blocks)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in each dc across. (40 dc: 13 blocks)
Rows 3 to 12: Turn and work 2 mesh, 9 blocks, 2 mesh. (32 dc, 4 ch-2 sps in each row: the straight sides of the arch)
Rows 13 to 14: Turn and work 3 mesh, 7 blocks, 3 mesh. (28 dc, 6 ch-2 sps in each row)
Row 15: Turn and work 4 mesh, 5 blocks, 4 mesh. (24 dc, 8 ch-2 sps)
Row 16: Turn and work 5 mesh, 3 blocks, 5 mesh. (20 dc, 10 ch-2 sps: the top of the arch)
Row 17: Turn and work 13 mesh. (14 dc, 13 ch-2 sps)
Row 18: Ch 3, turn, dc in each dc and 2 dc in each ch-2 sp across. (40 dc: 13 blocks)
Edging Rnd: Ch 1, 3 sc in corner st, sc in next 38 sts, 3 sc in corner st; along the row ends, work 8 sc in every 3 rows (48 sc); 3 sc in corner, sc in next 38 sts of the foundation, 3 sc in corner; 48 sc along the second row-end side, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. (184 sc: 38 on top and bottom, 48 on each side, 3 at each corner)

— Bobble Arch Cords (Make 42 cream and 42 red) :

Bobble: (yo, insert hook, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops) 5 times in the same st, yo and pull through all 6 loops. Bobbles are worked on wrong side rows so they pop to the right side.
Row 1: Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch. (3 sc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, bobble in next st, sc in last st. (2 sc, 1 bobble)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)
Rows 4 and on: Rep Rows 2 and 3. Work the cream cord to 108 rows (54 bobbles, about 24 inches) and the red cord to 120 rows (60 bobbles, about 27 inches). Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (3 sts per row)
Pin the cream cord along the edge where the solid arch meets the mesh, from the base on one side, over the top of the arch and down to the base on the other side. Pin the red cord just outside it. Sew both cords in place with matching yarn.

— Large Tulip (Make 42, red) :

Row 1: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (7 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc blo in first st, sc blo in next 5 sts, 2 sc blo in last st. (9 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc blo in first st, sc blo in next 7 sts, 2 sc blo in last st. (11 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc blo in first st, sc blo in next 9 sts, 2 sc blo in last st. (13 sc)
Rows 5 to 9: Ch 1, turn, sc blo in each st across. (13 sc in each row)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first st, sk next st, 7 dc in next st, sk next st, sl st in next st, sk next st, 7 dc in next st, sk next st, sl st in next st, sk next st, 7 dc in next st, sk next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. (3 petals of 7 dc, 4 sl sts)

— Small Tulip (Make 48, red) :

Row 1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc blo in first st, sc blo in next 3 sts, 2 sc blo in last st. (7 sc)
Rows 3 to 5: Ch 1, turn, sc blo in each st across. (7 sc in each row)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sl st in first st, 5 dc in next st, sl st in next st, 5 dc in next st, sl st in next st, 5 dc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. (3 petals of 5 dc, 4 sl sts)

— Leaves and Stems (sage green: 84 large leaves, 96 small leaves, 42 long stems, 48 short stems) :

Large Leaf: Ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 9 ch, hdc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch, working along the other side of the chain, hdc in next ch, dc in next 9 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch, sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (27 sts)
Small Leaf: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 4 ch, hdc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch, working along the other side of the chain, hdc in next ch, dc in next 4 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch, sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (19 sts)
Long Stem: Ch 16, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch back. Fasten off. (15 sl sts)
Short Stem: Ch 10, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch back. Fasten off. (9 sl sts)
On each arch block, pin a long stem up the center of the arch, a large tulip at the top of the stem and a large leaf on each side, angled upward. On each strip, pin a short stem, a small tulip and two small leaves. Sew everything in place with the long tails.

— Tulip Strip (Make 48, cream) :

Row 1: Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12 sc)
Rows 2 to 54: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. Fasten off after Row 54. (12 sc in each row, about 3 by 12 inches)

— Bobble Band (Make 49, cream and red) :

Row 1: With cream, ch 40, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (39 sc)
Rows 2 to 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (39 sc)
Row 4 (WS): Change to red. Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *bobble in next st, sc in next st; rep from * across. Change to cream. (20 sc, 19 bobbles)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (39 sc)
Row 6 (WS): Ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 sts, *bobble in next st, sc in next st; rep from * to last st, sc in last st. (21 sc, 18 cream bobbles)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (39 sc)
Row 8 (WS): Change to red and work as Row 4. Change to cream. (20 sc, 19 bobbles)
Rows 9 to 13: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. Fasten off. (39 sc in each row, about 9.75 by 3 inches)

— Corner Flower Square (Make 56: cream and red) :

Rnd 1: With cream, MR, ch 1, (sc, bobble) 4 times in ring, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. (4 sc, 4 bobbles)
Rnd 2: Join red in any st, *(sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in next st; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. (8 petals, 40 sts)
Rnd 3: Join cream behind the petals, *sc around the post of the next st of Rnd 1, ch 3; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. (8 sc, 8 ch-3 sps)
Rnd 4: Sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, 4 dc in next sp, *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next sp, 4 dc in next sp; rep from * twice more, sl st to join. (40 dc: 10 on each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in corner sp, sc in each dc across; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. (48 sc: 12 on each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps, about 3 inches square)

— Layout and Joining :

Block rows: join 8 Tulip Strips and 7 Arch Window Blocks side by side, starting and ending with a strip. Hold pieces wrong sides together and sc through the 48 side sts of each block and 48 row ends of each strip (skip every 9th row end). Make 6 block rows.
Band rows: join 8 Corner Flower Squares and 7 Bobble Bands side by side, starting and ending with a corner square. Make 7 band rows.
Join the rows together with cream sc, starting and ending with a band row: band row, block row, band row and so on. Line up every corner square with a strip so the flowers sit at every crossing. In total: 42 blocks, 48 strips, 49 bands and 56 corner squares.

— Scalloped Border (cream and red) :

Border Rnd 1: With cream, join in any st on the outer edge, ch 1, sc in each st or row end around: 369 sc along each short edge (7 bands x 39 plus 8 corner squares x 12), 372 sc along each long edge (6 strips x 48 plus 7 corner squares x 12) and 3 sc in each of the 4 outer corner sps, sl st in first sc to join. (1,494 sc)
Border Rnd 2: With red, ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 4, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ending with ch 4, sk 2, sl st in first sc. (498 sc, 498 ch-4 lps)
Border Rnd 3: Sl st to center of first lp, ch 1, sc in same lp, *ch 4, sc in next lp; rep from * around, ending with ch 4, sl st in first sc. Fasten off. (498 sc, 498 ch-4 lps)
Border Rnd 4: With cream, join in any ch-4 lp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 8 dc in same lp, *sc in next lp, 9 dc in next lp; rep from * around, ending with sc in last lp, sl st in top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. (249 scallops of 9 dc, 249 sc)
Border Rnd 5: With red, join in first dc of any scallop, ch 1, *sc in each of the 9 dc of the scallop, sl st in next sc; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. (2,241 sc, 249 sl sts)
For other sizes, Border Rnd 1 has 39 sc for every band, 48 for every strip and 12 for every corner square along the edge, plus 12 sc at the 4 corners. The total must divide by 6 so the mesh and scallops come out even; add or skip a few sc in Rnd 1 if needed.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make one Arch Window Block, one set of Bobble Arch Cords, one Large Tulip with leaves and stem, one Tulip Strip, one Bobble Band and one Corner Flower Square, then block them and check the sizes before making the rest.
  2. Sew a cream and a red Bobble Arch Cord around the arch of every block, then sew on the Large Tulip, its long stem and two large leaves.
  3. Sew a Small Tulip, a short stem and two small leaves onto the center of every Tulip Strip.
  4. Join the block rows (8 strips and 7 blocks each) and the band rows (8 corner squares and 7 bands each) with cream single crochet.
  5. Join the 7 band rows and 6 block rows together, starting and ending with a band row, so a corner flower sits at every crossing.
  6. Work Border Rounds 1 to 5 around the whole bed cover.
  7. Block the finished bed cover flat, gently shaping the tulips and pinning the scallops evenly, and let it dry completely.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

The most common mistake is losing track of the filet rows, so the arch comes out lopsided. If one side of a row has 3 mesh and the other has 2, the arch leans and the bobble cords will not sit neatly along its edge. This happens easily because every row looks similar. Keep a simple row counter and check each row against the plan: 2 mesh, 9 blocks, 2 mesh for the straight sides, then 3, 4 and 5 mesh as the arch narrows. Count your mesh on both sides before you turn. If a row is wrong, pull it back right away.

Another mistake is sewing the bobble cords too tightly, which puckers the arch and pulls the block out of square. A cord that is pulled while sewing will shorten the arch edge and make the mesh above it bunch up. Always pin the cord in place first, laying it flat along the arch without stretching. Then sew with small, loose stitches through the back of the cord and the edge of the solid blocks. Lay the block flat after sewing. If it cups, unpick a few stitches and ease the cord until the block lies flat again.

Many makers place the tulips at different heights, so the rows of flowers look uneven across the bed. When every block is sewn by eye, small differences add up, and some tulips sit high while others sit low. To keep them even, make a simple paper template the size of the arch and mark where the tulip, stem and leaves go. Lay the template on each block and pin the pieces in the same place every time. Check two finished blocks side by side before sewing the rest. Matching tulips make the whole cover look neat and planned.

The last common mistake is joining strips and blocks with different stitch counts, which makes the seams wavy. The strips have 54 rows, while the block sides have 48 stitches. If you work one stitch in every row end, the strip will be longer than the block and the seam will ripple. Skip every 9th row end on the strip as you join, so you work 48 stitches into each. Use stitch markers at the top, middle and bottom of each seam to keep the pieces matched. A flat seam keeps the arches straight and the tulips upright.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves turning garden flowers into cozy heirloom bed covers and home pieces.



Important Notes

Gauge matters because this cover has many parts that must fit together. Aim for 16 sc and 18 rows to 4 inches, with each arch block about 9.75 by 12 inches, each strip 3 by 12 inches and each band 9.75 by 3 inches. If your pieces are larger, the strips and bands will not match the blocks. Make one of each piece before you buy all of your yarn, and measure them together to make sure they line up.

Blocking makes the filet mesh crisp and helps all the parts match. Block each arch block, strip and band flat before joining, pinning them to the sizes above. Mist with cool water and let them dry fully. Block the tulips gently so the petals stay raised. After joining and working the border, block the whole cover again, pinning each scallop evenly, but never press the tulips or bobbles flat.

The yarn amounts are for the queen size in worsted weight cotton, so adjust them for other sizes or yarns. Buy all of each color from the same dye lot, plus about 10 percent extra. Cream can range from cool to warm and red can lean orange or berry between lots, and differences will show across a large cover. If you must use two lots, spread them evenly across the blocks so any small change is not noticeable.

Wash the bed cover by hand or on a gentle cold cycle inside a large mesh laundry bag. Because deep red sits right next to cream, wash the cover on its own and add a color catcher sheet to every wash, especially the first few. Use a mild detergent and no bleach. This cover is heavy when wet, so never hang it to dry. Lay it flat on towels, reshape the tulips and scallops and let it dry completely.


I hope this red tulip arch window bed cover brings a whole spring garden into your bedroom. It is a big project with many parts, but every tulip, leaf and strip is a small, happy step. Take your time, make your pieces in batches and enjoy watching your baskets of flowers grow.

You do not have to think about the whole bed cover today. Just make one tulip this evening, and one arch block tomorrow. Sew them together and hold up your first little garden gate. Before you know it, you will have a whole bed blooming with red tulips. Happy crocheting, my friend.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sc — single crochet
03 hdc — half double crochet
04 dc — double crochet
05 blo — back loop only
06 bobble — 5 dc cluster worked in one st, closed together
07 yo — yarn over
08 sl st — slip stitch
09 MR — magic ring
10 beg — beginning
11 sk — skip
12 WS — wrong side
13 st(s) — stitch(es)
14 lp(s) — loop(s)
15 sp(s) — space(s)
16 rep — repeat
17 Rnd — round

You Ask, We Answer

What is the finished size of this bed cover?

The queen version finishes at about 100 by 101 inches with the scalloped border. Before the border, the joined panels measure about 92 by 93 inches: 7 arch blocks across and 6 down, with tulip strips between the blocks, bobble bands between the rows and corner flower squares at every crossing. Each arch block is about 9.75 inches wide and 12 inches tall, and every strip and band is about 3 inches wide. On a standard queen mattress, the cover lies across the top and drops about 20 inches on each side and about 21 inches at the foot. If your bed is taller or longer, add one more row of blocks or a deeper border. Measure your own bed, including the mattress and frame height, and plan from your blocked block size before you buy your yarn.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make a different size?

Yes, this pattern works in many yarn weights because every piece keeps the same stitch counts. In DK cotton with a 3.5 mm hook, each arch block is about 8 by 10 inches, and in bulky yarn with a 6 mm hook it grows to about 12 by 15 inches. The strips, bands, corner squares and tulips all grow or shrink in the same way, so they still fit together. Make one of each piece in your chosen yarn, block them and measure them, then plan your layout from those sizes. The section on switching things up lists block counts for twin, full, queen and king, plus ideas for a throw, a runner and pillows. For the border, count the stitches along each edge and adjust slightly so the total divides by 6, which keeps the mesh and scallops even.

How do I wash and care for this crochet bed cover?

Wash it by hand in cool water or on a gentle cold cycle inside a large mesh laundry bag to protect the tulips, bobbles and seams. Use a mild detergent and never use bleach, because it can fade the red and yellow the cream. Wash the cover on its own and add a color catcher sheet to every wash, since deep red dyes can release color onto the cream. Do not wring or twist the cover. Gently press out the water, then lay it flat on clean towels, reshape the tulips with your fingers and smooth the scallops. Let it dry completely, away from direct sunlight. Never hang it while wet, because this cover is heavy and will stretch. Between seasons, fold it loosely with tissue between the layers and store it in a breathable cotton bag.