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Chocolate Brown Cream Rose Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Chocolate Brown Cream Rose Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
130-150 Hours 0 made this
Intermediate Level

Friendly granny clusters for a confident beginner, plus a layered rose made with back post single crochet.

130-150 Hours

About an hour for each square with its rose, so a few each week finish the bed in one season.

Roses On Cocoa

Every brown square holds a full cream rose, framed in cream like a picture.

About This Chocolate Brown Cream Rose Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bed cover is made from one cozy square repeated across the whole bed. Each square is a deep chocolate brown granny square with a thick cream frame, and a full cream rose sits right in the middle. When the squares are joined, the cream frames run together into a bold lattice, and the roses line up across the bed in neat rows. The rich brown and warm cream together feel like a mug of hot cocoa with a swirl of cream on top. It looks detailed and special, but every piece is made with stitches you already know.

Each square is worked in the round from a magic ring. Seven rounds of brown granny clusters, groups of three double crochet with one chain between them, build a dense square with small windows that let a little light through. Then two rounds of cream close it in: one round of double crochet that fills the last row of windows, and one round of single crochet that gives every square its clean, creamy outline. Each square ends on 132 single crochet with four corner spaces, which keeps the joining nice and even.

The rose is made separately with cream yarn. It starts with a small ring of six chain loops, and each loop holds a little petal. Then you work chain loops behind those petals with back post single crochet, so the next layer sits underneath and peeks out around the first one. After three layers you have a full, cupped rose about three and a half inches across. You sew it to the center of each brown square with the long yarn tail, anchoring it in two rings so it stays put through years of use.

The queen size uses 110 squares in a grid of 10 squares across and 11 squares down. Each blocked square is about 9 inches, so the joined center measures about 90 by 99 inches. A border of one cream round, one brown round and one cream shell round adds about 1.25 inches on every side, for a finished size of roughly 92 by 101 inches. That covers a queen mattress and drapes well down the sides of the bed, just like you see in the photo.

The squares are joined with a cream slip stitch seam through the back loops of the last round. Because every square already has its own cream frame, the seam doubles the cream line and makes the lattice look thick and generous. The border repeats both colors, with a thin band of brown between two cream rounds, and the cream shells finish the edge with a soft scallop that matches the roundness of the roses.

The finished bed cover is warm, heavy and very cozy. The brown granny squares are dense enough to hold in the warmth, and the cream roses add texture you can feel with your fingertips. I would call this an intermediate project, mostly because of its size. The stitches are friendly for a confident beginner, but 110 squares and 110 roses ask for steady tension and a good deal of patience. If you love a long, peaceful project to work on through the cold months, this one is for you.

Chocolate Brown Cream Rose Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Chocolate Brown Cream Rose Granny Square Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love brown and cream together more than I can say. It is the color of my mother's kitchen, of chocolate cake with vanilla frosting, of a wooden sleigh bed with crisp pillows. Brown is warm and grounded, and it never looks dirty or tired the way a pale bed cover can. The cream keeps it bright and cheerful, so the whole bed feels welcoming instead of dark. On a cherry wood bed like the one in the photo, it looks like it has always belonged there.

The roses are my favorite part. Cream yarn on brown makes every petal stand out, so you can see each layer and every little curve. I make the roses in batches while I watch my evening shows, and I keep them in a basket until the squares are ready. The first time I cupped the outer petals with my fingers and watched the rose open up, I made three more before bed. Sewing one onto a finished brown square always feels like the moment it comes to life.

I also love that the squares are portable. One square and a small ball of yarn fit in my handbag, so I can work a round at the doctor's office, on a long car ride, or out on the porch with a cup of coffee. A square takes me about forty five minutes, and a rose about twenty, so I can finish one complete piece in a single evening. Watching the pile grow from ten to fifty to a hundred gives me a quiet pride that keeps me going.

Here are a few more reasons this one stays close to my heart:

  • There is only one square and one rose to learn, so you soon know them by heart.
  • The dark brown hides small tension changes and everyday wear.
  • It uses plenty of yarn, so it is a good home for stash in brown and cream.
  • It makes a gift a family can keep for generations.

Each of these makes a big project feel calm and doable, even when the finish line still looks far away.

A handmade bed cover changes a room like nothing else. When I make the bed in the morning and smooth this cover over the mattress, the whole room feels warm and finished. It looks just as right in a farmhouse bedroom as in a log cabin or a plain room with white walls. Guests always reach out to touch the roses, and they always ask how long it took. I tell them the truth: many evenings, many cups of tea, and one square at a time.

This project taught me to be patient with myself. A few of my early roses were lopsided, and one square came out a little small, so it became a pot holder instead. That is all part of handmade work. When I joined the last square and worked the final shell around the edge, every one of those little mistakes had disappeared into the whole. All I could see was a big, warm bed cover covered in roses, made with my own two hands.


Switch Things Up

Try a new color pair. The design works with any dark color for the squares and a light color for the roses and frames. Navy with cream feels classic and crisp, and forest green with ivory is lovely in a cabin bedroom. Burgundy with cream is warm and romantic, and charcoal gray with white gives a calm modern look. Keep the roses and frames in the same light color so each square has that bold framed look.

Make it for a different bed. Every square is about 9 inches, so changing the size is just a matter of changing the grid. Add or remove a column to change the width, and add or remove a row to change the length. Here is a quick guide with the border included:

  • Twin: 7 across by 11 down, 77 squares, about 66 by 101 inches
  • Full: 9 across by 11 down, 99 squares, about 84 by 101 inches
  • Queen: 10 across by 11 down, 110 squares, about 92 by 101 inches
  • King: 12 across by 11 down, 132 squares, about 110 by 101 inches

For a taller bed or a longer drape, add one more row to the length.

Make a sofa throw. A grid of 5 squares across by 7 squares down uses 35 squares and makes a throw of about 47 by 65 inches with the border. That is a lovely size for the back of a sofa or the foot of the bed. It uses about a third of the yarn of the queen size, so it is a good way to try the pattern before you commit to a full bed. If you fall in love with it, keep going and turn it into a bed cover later.

Make a baby blanket. A grid of 4 squares across by 4 squares down makes a blanket of about 38 by 38 inches. For a baby, I leave off the 3D roses, since small raised parts are not a good idea for little ones, and I use a soft, washable baby yarn instead. Light tan with cream or soft caramel with white gives a sweet, gentle look. You can embroider a small flat flower in the center of each square if you miss the roses.

Make matching pillow shams. Six squares joined 3 across by 2 down make a sham front of about 27 by 18 inches, which fits a standard pillow. Use rose squares on the front and plain brown squares without roses on the back, so the pillow is comfortable to lean on. Join front and back on three sides with cream single crochet, slip the pillow in, and close the last side. Making the shams in the same brown and cream as the bed cover ties the whole bed together.

Change the edge. For a straight, tailored look, skip the shell round and finish with one more round of cream single crochet. For a deeper scallop, work 7 double crochet in each shell instead of 5 and keep the same spacing. You could also add short cream tassels at the two lower corners of the bed. Each choice changes the mood of the cover, from simple and modern to soft and vintage.

Use a different yarn weight. In DK yarn with a 4.0 mm hook, each square comes out at about 7.5 inches, so a queen needs a grid of about 12 across by 13 down. In bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook, each square grows to about 11 inches, and a queen needs about 8 across by 9 down. Always make and block one square first, measure it, and plan your grid from that. Weigh your first square too, so you can work out your yarn amounts.

Play with the roses. Instead of a rose on every square, put roses on every other square for a calmer checkerboard and half as many roses to make. You could also make a few roses in a soft caramel or blush shade and scatter them across the bed. Each rose uses about 8 grams of yarn, so they are a happy way to use up leftovers. Keep the squares and frames the same so the bed still looks planned and calm.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (#4) acrylic or acrylic and wool blend yarn in 2 colors
02 Color A, chocolate brown: about 3,400 g (about 6,800 yd) for 110 granny squares and 1 border round
03 Color B, cream: about 2,200 g (about 4,400 yd) for 110 square frames, 110 roses, the joining and 2 border rounds
04 Amounts are estimates for the queen size including the edge; buy one extra skein of each color from the same dye lot

— Tools Required

05 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
06 Yarn needle
07 Stitch markers
08 Scissors
09 Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
10 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 130-150 Hours

0% complete

— Rose Square, brown granny with cream frame (Make 110) :

Color A is chocolate brown and Color B is cream. The beginning ch 3 counts as a dc. Work every round with the right side facing and do not turn.
Rnd 1: With A, make a magic ring. Ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 2, *3 dc in ring, ch 2; rep from * 2 more times. Sl st to top of ch 3 and pull the ring closed. (12 dc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 2: Sl st in next 2 dc and in the ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, ch 1, *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 2 more times. Sl st to top of ch 3. (24 dc, 4 ch-2 sp, 4 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 3: Sl st in next 2 dc and in the ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, then work 3 dc in each ch-1 sp along the sides with ch 1 between groups, and (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in each corner sp around, ch 1. Sl st to top of ch 3. (36 dc, 4 ch-2 sp, 8 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 4: Sl st in next 2 dc and in the ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, then work 3 dc in each ch-1 sp along the sides with ch 1 between groups, and (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in each corner sp around, ch 1. Sl st to top of ch 3. (48 dc, 4 ch-2 sp, 12 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 5: Sl st in next 2 dc and in the ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, then work 3 dc in each ch-1 sp along the sides with ch 1 between groups, and (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in each corner sp around, ch 1. Sl st to top of ch 3. (60 dc, 4 ch-2 sp, 16 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 6: Sl st in next 2 dc and in the ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, then work 3 dc in each ch-1 sp along the sides with ch 1 between groups, and (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in each corner sp around, ch 1. Sl st to top of ch 3. (72 dc, 4 ch-2 sp, 20 ch-1 sp)
Rnd 7: Sl st in next 2 dc and in the ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, then work 3 dc in each ch-1 sp along the sides with ch 1 between groups, and (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in each corner sp around, ch 1. Sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off A. (84 dc, 4 ch-2 sp, 24 ch-1 sp)
Check: each side now has 7 groups of 3 dc with 6 ch-1 sp between them, which is 27 sts between the corner ch-2 sp.
Rnd 8: Join B in any ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, *dc in each dc and each ch-1 sp across (27 dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each dc and ch-1 sp across (27 dc). Sl st to top of ch 3. (124 dc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each dc around, working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-2 sp. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off, leaving a 6 inch tail. (132 sc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Each side now has 33 sc between the corner ch-2 sp, and the square measures about 9 inches.

— 3D Cream Rose (Make 110, cream) :

Rnd 1: With B, make a magic ring. (Sc, ch 3) 6 times in ring. Sl st to first sc and pull the ring closed. (6 sc, 6 ch-3 sp)
Rnd 2: In each ch-3 sp work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc). Sl st to first sc. (6 petals, 42 sts)
Rnd 3: Fold the petals forward. *Ch 4, BPsc around the next sc of Rnd 1; rep from * 5 more times, working the last BPsc around the first sc of Rnd 1. (6 BPsc, 6 ch-4 sp)
Rnd 4: In each ch-4 sp work (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc). Sl st to first sc. (6 petals, 54 sts)
Rnd 5: Fold the petals forward. *Ch 5, BPsc around the next BPsc of Rnd 3; rep from * 5 more times. (6 BPsc, 6 ch-5 sp)
Rnd 6: In each ch-5 sp work (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc). Sl st to first sc. Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing. (6 petals, 66 sts)
The rose measures about 3.5 inches across. Cup each petal upward with your fingers and press the center down a little.
Sew one rose to the center of each Rose Square, stitching through the posts of Rnd 3 and Rnd 5 and into the brown square.

— Layout and Joining (10 squares across by 11 squares down) :

Layout: Lay out the 110 blocked Rose Squares in 11 rows of 10 squares. (110 squares)
Take a photo of the layout before you start joining so you can keep track of your rows.
Short seams: With B, place 2 squares right sides up with edges touching. Sl st through the BLO of both edges, working 1 sl st in each corner ch-2 sp and 1 sl st in each of the 33 sc between. (35 sl st per seam) Join the 10 squares of each row into a strip. (9 seams per strip, 11 strips)
Long seams: With B, join the strips in the same way, working 35 sl st across each square and 1 sl st over each short seam. (359 sl st per long seam, 10 long seams)

— Border (cream, brown and cream shells) :

Each short side has 10 squares and 9 seams, and each long side has 11 squares and 10 seams. At each seam work 3 sc: 1 in the corner sp of the first square, 1 in the seam and 1 in the corner sp of the next square.
Rnd 1: Join B in the ch-2 sp at any outer corner. Ch 1, 3 sc in same sp. *Sc in each of the 33 sc of each square along the side, working 3 sc at each seam, then 3 sc in the next outer corner sp; rep from * around, omitting the last corner. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off B. (357 sc on each short side, 393 sc on each long side, 3 sc in each of 4 corners: 1,512 sc)
Rnd 2: Join A in the center sc of any corner. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same st, *dc in each st across to the center sc of the next corner, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in center sc; rep from * around, omitting the last corner. Sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off A. (363 dc on each short side and 399 dc on each long side between corner sp: 1,524 dc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 3: Join B in the corner sp before a short side. Ch 3, 6 dc in same sp. Short side: sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, *sk 2 dc, 5 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc; rep from * 59 more times, sk 1 dc, 7 dc in corner sp. Long side: sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, *sk 2 dc, 5 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc; rep from * 65 more times, sk 1 dc, 7 dc in corner sp. Repeat the short side and long side once more, omitting the last corner. Sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off. (60 shells on each short side, 66 shells on each long side, 4 corner shells of 7 dc: 256 shells, 256 sc)
Weave in all remaining ends and give the finished bed cover a light final block if needed.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make 110 Rose Squares and 110 3D Cream Roses, weaving in the ends as you go.
  2. Sew one rose to the center of each Rose Square with its long tail, stitching through the posts of Rose Rnds 3 and 5 so it sits firmly.
  3. Block every square to 9 by 9 inches and let it dry completely, without pressing the roses flat.
  4. Lay out the squares in 11 rows of 10 as shown in the Layout and Joining section and take a photo so you can keep track.
  5. With cream, join the 10 squares of each row into a strip with the slip stitch seam, then join the 11 strips together with long seams worked the same way.
  6. Work the 3 Border rounds around the whole bed cover, weave in all remaining ends and give the cover a light final block.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Working into the tops of the stitches instead of the spaces. In a granny square, every new group of three double crochet goes into the chain space below it, not into the tops of the stitches. If you work into the stitches, the little windows close up, the square grows crooked, and your counts stop matching the pattern. Look for the gap under each chain before you insert the hook. After Round 4, lay the square flat and check that the windows line up in straight rows. If they do not, pull back to the round where the line breaks.

Letting the squares come out in different sizes. With 110 squares, tension drifts over the weeks, especially when you are tired or crocheting while you talk. A square that is a quarter inch smaller does not look like much, but across a row of 10 squares the seams pucker and the cream lattice wanders. Keep your first blocked square as a measuring square and check every new square against it. If a square is more than a quarter inch off, redo the last round or two with a different hook. Blocking helps, but it cannot fix a big difference.

Sewing the roses on too loosely or off center. If you only stitch around the outer petals, the middle of the rose lifts and the flower wobbles when the bed is used or washed. A rose that sits off center makes the rows of roses look messy across the bed. Fold each square in half both ways to find the middle and pin the rose there. Sew it down in two rings, once through the posts of Round 3 and once through the posts of Round 5, going through the brown square each time, then weave the tail in well.

Pulling the joining seams too tight. A tight slip stitch seam is shorter than the square edges, so the cover puckers along every line and will not lie flat over the mattress. This happens most often when you work fast or hold the squares too firmly. Keep each slip stitch as loose as the stitches of the square, and go up one hook size for joining if you need to. Join the squares of each row into strips first, then join the strips. Lay the cover flat after each long seam and check that it lies smooth.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves turning simple squares into heirloom bed covers and cozy pieces for the home.



Important Notes

Gauge and square size: Rounds 1 to 4 of the brown granny center should measure about 4.5 inches across, and each finished, blocked square should be about 9 inches. Every square must match the others, so make one square, block it and measure it before you start the rest. If it is larger, try a 4.5 mm hook, and if it is smaller, try a 5.5 mm hook. Sizes and yarn amounts are estimates from the photo, so trust your own measuring square.

Blocking: Pin each square to 9 by 9 inches on blocking mats with rust-proof pins. For acrylic, hold a steam iron a few inches above the square without touching it, then let it cool and dry completely before you unpin it. For wool blends, mist the square lightly with water and let it dry. Never press the roses flat. Blocked squares have sharp corners and straight edges, and they make the joining much faster and neater.

Yarn amounts and dye lots: For the queen size you need about 3,400 grams of chocolate brown and about 2,200 grams of cream in worsted weight yarn, including the joining and the border. These numbers depend on your tension. Buy all of each color at the same time and check that the dye lot numbers match. Brown can change shade from one lot to the next, and on a bed cover this large a different lot shows up as a stripe.

Washing and drying: Follow your yarn label first. Most acrylic bed covers can be machine washed on a gentle cycle in cool water inside a large mesh bag, then dried flat or tumbled on low. Because dark brown sits right next to cream, add a color catcher sheet to every wash so no brown dye settles on the roses or frames. Wash wool blends by hand in cool water. Never hang the cover wet, since the water will stretch it.


Every time I look at this bed cover, I think about how it began: one brown magic ring, a few granny clusters, and one little cream rose. Nothing in it is hard on its own. It is simply one cozy square made again and again until it covers a whole bed with warmth. I hope you enjoy every round of it as much as I did, and that it keeps you warm for many winters.

So pick up your hook, wind a ball of chocolate brown and a ball of cream, and make just one square today. Do not think about all 110 yet. Make one, then another, and before long you will have a stack of roses waiting to become something your family will keep for years. Please share your first rose square with me. Happy crocheting, my friend.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sl st — slip stitch
03 sc — single crochet
04 hdc — half double crochet
05 dc — double crochet
06 sp — space
07 st(s) — stitch(es)
08 Rnd — round
09 rep — repeat
10 sk — skip
11 BLO — back loop only
12 BPsc — back post single crochet: insert the hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch and work a sc

You Ask, We Answer

How big is the finished bed cover?

The queen size in this pattern measures about 92 by 101 inches with the border. It is made from 110 squares in a grid of 10 squares across and 11 squares down, and each blocked square is about 9 inches. The joined center is about 90 by 99 inches, and the cream and brown border adds about 1.25 inches on every side. On a standard queen mattress, which is 60 by 80 inches, that leaves about 16 inches to drape down each side and enough length to tuck under the pillows. If you want the cover to reach the floor on a tall bed, add one more column of squares. Your own size may be a little different, because everyone crochets with a slightly different tension. Measure your first blocked square, multiply it by your grid, and adjust the number of squares before you buy all of your yarn.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make a different size?

Yes, and the square makes it easy. The stitches stay the same, and only the size of each square changes. In DK yarn with a 4.0 mm hook, a square is about 7.5 inches, so a queen needs about 12 across by 13 down. In bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook, a square is about 11 inches, so a queen needs about 8 across by 9 down. For other beds in worsted yarn, use 7 squares across for a twin, 9 for a full, 10 for a queen and 12 for a king, all 11 squares down. A sofa throw is 5 across by 7 down, and a baby blanket is 4 by 4. Whatever you choose, make one square, block it and measure it, then multiply by your grid to find the finished size. Weigh that first square too, so you can work out how much yarn of each color you will need.

How do I wash and care for the bed cover?

Always start with your yarn label, because care depends on the fiber. Acrylic is the easiest choice for a bed cover. Wash it on a gentle cycle in cool water inside a large mesh laundry bag or a pillowcase tied shut, so the roses do not rub against the drum. Add a color catcher sheet to every wash, because brown dye can bleed onto the cream, especially in the first few washes. Dry it flat on towels or tumble it on the lowest heat. For wool blends, wash by hand in cool water with a gentle wool wash, press out the water without wringing, roll the cover in towels and lay it flat to dry. Never hang it wet. Between washes, shake it outside and air it in the sun for an hour. Store it loosely folded in a cotton bag, and check the roses now and then for loose stitches.