Christmas Tree Hanging Curtain Crochet Pattern
Only chains, slip stitches, single and double crochet, worked in small tiers you will know by heart after the first tree.
Each tree takes about half an hour, so two or three trees an evening gets the whole forest done before the holidays.
Seventy little cream and green trees turn any window into a soft winter forest that comes out year after year.
About This Christmas Tree Hanging Curtain Crochet Pattern Pattern
This curtain is a little forest hanging in a window. It is made of seventy crochet Christmas trees, strung into ten long columns that hang from a lacy valance band across the top. The trees alternate pale sage cream and deep forest green down every column, and the columns are offset by half a tree, so each tree sits neatly between the trees beside it. From across the room it reads like falling snow and pine branches at the same time. When I hung mine in the dining room, it changed the whole feeling of the house overnight.
Every tree is built from three small tiers and a trunk. Each tier starts with a row of little scallops made from three double crochet shells, which become the soft, wavy hem you see on every layer. Above that, rows of double crochet and short chain spaces narrow quickly to a point, so each tier is a lacy triangle with plenty of holes for the light. The large, medium and small tiers are stacked so each scalloped hem overlaps the tier below. A tiny square trunk worked in single crochet sits under the bottom tier and finishes the shape.
The trees are joined trunk to tip with short chain links. I work each link as four chains and then slip stitch back along it, which makes a neat, firm cord about one inch long. Seven trees make one column. The odd columns hang from a short link and start with a cream tree, while the even columns hang from a longer link and start with a green tree, which creates the half drop that makes the pattern feel so full. There are no tassels on this design, because the last trunk makes such a sweet ending on its own.
The valance band across the top is worked in one long piece in pale sage cream. It has rows of double crochet, two rows of open mesh and a scalloped lower edge with thirty little shells. Along the top edge, a row of chain loops slides over a wooden curtain rod. Every third shell along the bottom carries one column of trees, so the columns are evenly spaced about five inches apart. The finished curtain measures about 51 inches wide and about 56 to 60 inches long, depending on the column, which fits a standard window or a glass door panel nicely.
Each finished tree is about 5 inches wide and 6.5 inches tall. I used worsted weight cotton with a 5 mm hook, because cotton keeps the points sharp and the scallops crisp, and it does not stretch much when the trees hang. The stitches are simple: chain, slip stitch, single crochet and double crochet. The only skills beyond that are sewing the tiers together and keeping your chain links even. If you can make a shell and a turning chain, you can make this whole curtain.
This is a good project for a confident beginner with a little patience, and a relaxing one for anyone who loves small, repeatable pieces. Seventy trees sounds like a lot, but each one is finished in about half an hour, and they fit in a small bag. Daylight comes through the open tiers and throws little tree shadows across the table, and in the evening the room lights glow softly through the cream trees. It is a cozy way to dress a window for the whole holiday season.
Why You'll Love This Christmas Tree Hanging Curtain Crochet Pattern Pattern
I love a project that grows quietly in the background of a busy season, and this curtain does exactly that. I started mine in early autumn and made two or three trees almost every evening. Each tree is finished in one sitting, so there is no complicated place to remember and no long row to lose. By the time the first cold mornings came, I had a basket full of little cream and green trees, and the holidays felt a lot closer. I also loved that the trees used up the odd half balls of green and cream cotton left from older projects. A tree only needs about fourteen yards, so even small leftovers turned into something useful, and nothing went to waste in my yarn basket.
I also love how much it changes a room. Before, my dining room window was just glass and a wooden frame. Now the trees fill the whole window like a soft winter forest, and every meal at that table feels a little more special. It gives privacy from the street without blocking the light, and when friends come for dinner, it is always the first thing they notice and ask about.
Here is why this pattern is special to me:
- Each tree is small, quick and easy to carry anywhere.
- Only basic stitches, repeated in a calm, happy rhythm.
- It uses up spare green and cream cotton beautifully.
- It works in a window, a door or as a holiday room divider.
- It comes out every year and feels like an old friend.
There is a slow joy in watching the forest grow. I kept my finished trees in two baskets, one for each color, and every Sunday I laid them out on the bed in their columns. Seeing the columns grow longer each week, with the cream and green trading places all the way down, was more motivating than any to-do list. When the day came to join everything, the curtain came together in one long, happy afternoon.
This curtain makes a lovely gift too, and it is the kind of handmade present people keep for years. I can picture it in a grandchild's first apartment, in a holiday cabin or in a friend's kitchen window. You can match the colors to their home, and because the valance slides onto any standard rod, it fits almost anywhere. A few single trees also make sweet gift tags or ornaments if you want to share a little piece of it.
I learned a few things while making it. I learned to make all the tiers of one size in a batch, because my tension stays more even that way. I learned to block every tree before joining, because a blocked tree hangs straight and an unblocked one twists. And I learned that the half drop is worth the extra chains on the even columns, because it is what makes the curtain look full instead of striped. I hope these small lessons save you a little time on your own forest.
Switch Things Up
This pattern is easy to change, because every tree is small and the layout is just columns. My first idea is always color. Pale sage cream and forest green feel like a snowy pine forest, but red and white trees look cheerful and classic in a farmhouse kitchen, and green and cream in brighter shades feels fresh and modern. Blue and white gives you a frosty winter look that can stay up from December to February. For a little girl's room, pink and white trees are pure sweetness.
For an elegant table setting, try white with golden details. Make every tree in white or ivory cotton and carry a fine gold metallic thread together with your yarn in Row 1 of each tier, so only the scalloped hems sparkle. It catches candlelight beautifully on Christmas Eve. You could also work the trunks in a warm brown for a more natural look, while keeping the tiers in one or two colors. Lay a few test trees on the windowsill before you buy all the yarn, because colors look different with light behind them.
Changing the size is simple. Each column adds about 5 inches of width, and each tree with its chain link adds about 7.5 inches of length. The valance band grows by 18 stitches for every extra column. Here are the sizes I use, measured at the longest column:
- Narrow window, about 26 by 38 inches: 5 columns of 4 trees, 20 trees.
- Standard window, about 51 by 60 inches: 10 columns of 7 trees, 70 trees.
- Door, about 31 by 83 inches: 6 columns of 10 trees, 60 trees.
- Room divider, about 77 by 90 inches: 15 columns of 11 trees, 165 trees.
A short cafe curtain is one of my favorite variations for a kitchen. Hang it on a rod halfway up the window and make each column only 2 or 3 trees long. Three trees per column gives a drop of about 30 inches, which covers the lower half of the glass and keeps the top open for light and a view of the snow. It is also a great way to test the pattern before you make the full forest, and it only needs 30 trees.
For a doorway, hang the columns a little farther apart, on every fourth shell instead of every third, so the trees no longer overlap and the strands part easily when someone walks through. Make the columns 10 or 11 trees long so they reach almost to the floor, and keep the chain links firm, because they will be brushed every day. A doorway forest between the kitchen and the hall is such a happy surprise for guests. You can take it down after the holidays and roll it up in a pillowcase until next year.
The ending of each column can change the mood too. I love the clean finish of the last trunk, but you can add a small tassel of 3 or 4 inches under the bottom tree for a softer look, or a tiny white pompom like a snowball. Small wooden beads on the chain links add a rustic touch, and a single crocheted star at the top of each column feels very festive. Keep any additions light, because extra weight at the bottom pulls on the links.
Finally, you can change the yarn weight. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, each tree comes out about 4 inches wide and 5.2 inches tall, so you will need about 13 columns of 9 trees to cover the same window. In chunky cotton with a 6.5 mm hook, each tree grows to about 6.5 inches wide and 8.5 inches tall, and 8 columns of 5 trees cover a standard window. Always make and block one test tree before you plan your layout and buy yarn.
Materials Needed
— Main Fabric
— Tools Required
The Free Pattern
0% complete
— Large Tier (Make 70: 35 pale sage cream, 35 forest green) :
— Medium Tier (Make 70: 35 pale sage cream, 35 forest green) :
— Small Tier (Make 70: 35 pale sage cream, 35 forest green) :
— Trunk (Make 70: 35 pale sage cream, 35 forest green) :
— Tree Assembly (Make 70: 35 pale sage cream, 35 forest green) :
— Valance Band (Make 1, pale sage cream) :
— Layout :
— Chain Links and Joining :
— Top Loops and Hanging (Make 15 rod loops and 10 top links) :
Assembly Instructions
- Make 70 large tiers, 70 medium tiers, 70 small tiers and 70 trunks, half in pale sage cream and half in forest green.
- Follow the Tree Assembly steps to stack the three tiers of each tree, sew on the trunk and block all 70 trees.
- Make the Valance Band and mark the center dc of shells 2, 5, 8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23, 26 and 29.
- Arrange the trees in 10 columns of 7 following the Layout, alternating colors down each column and starting the even columns with green.
- Join the trees of each column trunk to tip with the Chain Links, 6 links per column and 60 in total.
- Work the Rod Loop Row on the valance, then attach each column to its marked shell with a short top link on the odd columns and a long top link on the even columns.
- Slide the rod loops onto the curtain rod, mist the columns lightly and let the curtain hang overnight so the links settle.
Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them
The most common problem with this pattern is tiers that come out slightly different sizes from tree to tree. It happens because seventy trees take weeks, and our tension changes with mood, tiredness and even the chair we sit in. When the tiers drift, the trees in a column look uneven and the column hangs longer than its neighbors. To avoid it, make all the large tiers in one batch, then all the medium ones, then all the small ones. Measure the width of every tenth tier against your first one, and change hook size half a step if it drifts.
Another mistake is ending Row 1 of a tier with the wrong number of shells. If you skip one chain too few or too many, the last shell lands off the end of the foundation, and the tier comes out lopsided with its point off center. This usually happens when you count the shells but not the chains. Before you start Row 1, count your foundation chain twice. After the row, check that you have exactly one sc at each end and the right number of shells, five, four or three, before you move on to the narrowing rows.
Many people lose the half drop between the columns. If every column hangs from the same short link, the trees line up in straight rows, the same colors meet side by side, and the curtain looks striped instead of full. It happens most often when the top links are made in a hurry at the very end. Make the odd columns with a short ch 4 top link and the even columns with a long ch 19 top link, and hang the curtain to check the stagger before you weave in the ends. The bottom trees should sit at two clear heights.
The last common mistake is trees that twist and turn their backs to the room. It happens when the chain links are joined off center, when a trunk is sewn on at an angle, or when the trees are not blocked before they hang. A twisted tree in the middle of a column is very easy to spot against a bright window. Always join each link to the exact center of the trunk and to the ch-2 tip of the next tree, block every tree flat, and keep all the tree fronts facing the same way when you lay out the columns.
Important Notes
Gauge decides the width of every tree. With worsted cotton and a 5 mm hook, 14 dc should measure 4 inches. The large tier should measure about 5 inches across its scalloped hem, and the finished tree about 5 inches wide and 6.5 inches tall. If your tiers are bigger, go down half a hook size. If they are smaller, go up. The valance band is worked at the same gauge and should come out about 51 inches long.
Block every tree before you join it. Pin the large tier hem in a smooth line, pin the tip of the small tier straight up, and pin the trunk centered below. Mist with water and let each tree dry completely. Cotton keeps the shape you give it, so the scallops stay crisp and the points stay sharp. Block the valance band flat too, pinning each of the thirty shells, so the columns hang evenly spaced along it.
You need about 650 yards of pale sage cream, roughly 330 g, and about 550 yards of forest green, roughly 280 g. That covers 35 trees in each color, the chain links, the top links, and in cream the valance band, plus a little spare. Buy all the yarn for each color at once and check that every ball has the same dye lot number, because the light behind the curtain shows even small color differences.
The finished curtain weighs about 600 g, light enough for most rods, but use proper brackets rather than a thin tension rod, because all the weight hangs from one band. To wash, put the curtain in a large mesh bag on a gentle cold cycle, or hand wash it in the bathtub. Because the dark forest green and the pale cream are washed together, add a color catcher sheet every time. Never wring it. Dry it flat on towels and reshape every tree.
I hope this little forest brings as much warmth to your home as mine has brought to our dining room. It looks like a big project from across the room, but up close it is just one small tree after another, and every single one of them is easy and quick to make. Take your time, enjoy the colors, and let your baskets fill up slowly through the autumn.
So pick up your hook, choose your two favorite colors and make your first tree tonight. Block it, hold it up to the window and watch the light come through the lacy tiers. I think that one little tree will be all the encouragement you need to make the next sixty-nine. Happy crocheting, my friends.
Crochet Abbreviations
You Ask, We Answer
How big is the finished curtain, and how do I make it fit my window?
The curtain as written is about 51 inches wide. Because of the half drop, the odd columns hang about 56 inches long and the even columns about 60 inches long, measured from the top of the valance band to the tip of the last trunk. That comes from 10 columns of 7 trees, with each tree about 5 inches wide and 6.5 inches tall and a 1 inch chain link between trees. To fit your own window, divide the width you want to cover by 5 to find the number of columns, and add 18 stitches to the valance for each extra column. For the length, subtract about 8.5 inches for the valance and the top links, then divide what is left by 7.5 to get the number of trees per column. An even number of columns keeps the two colors balanced. Always plan with your own blocked test tree, because every hand crochets a little differently.
Can I use a different yarn weight or make the trees bigger?
Yes, and the pattern works the same way with any weight, only the size changes. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, each tree comes out about 4 inches wide, so you will need more trees to fill the same window. In chunky cotton with a 6.5 mm hook, each tree grows to about 6.5 inches wide, and you will need fewer of them. I recommend cotton or a cotton blend, because it keeps the points and scallops crisp and does not stretch much in a long column. Acrylic works too, but it can droop over time, so keep the chain links firm. Whatever you choose, make one tree, block it and measure it. Then redo the column and tree math from the first question, and adjust the valance length and the long top links so the half drop still equals half a tree plus one link. Buy a little extra yarn when you change weights, because the yardage per tree changes too.
How do I wash, care for and store the curtain between seasons?
I wash mine once at the end of every holiday season, before I put it away. Take it off the rod, slip it into a large mesh laundry bag, and wash on a gentle cold cycle with a mild detergent. Hand washing in the bathtub works just as well and is kinder to the chain links. Add a color catcher sheet every time, because the forest green and the pale cream are washed together. Do not wring or twist the columns. Press the water out with a towel, then lay the curtain flat and straighten every tree with your fingers so the tips point up and the scallops sit neatly. Let it dry completely. To store it, lay the columns side by side on a long strip of tissue paper and roll them up loosely around the valance, so the trees do not tangle. Keep the roll in a cotton pillowcase, never in plastic, in a dry cupboard.
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Abbreviations
- ch — chain
- sl st — slip stitch
- sc — single crochet
- dc — double crochet
- st — stitch
- sts — stitches
- sp — space
- rep — repeat
- * — repeat the instructions after the asterisk as directed
