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Terracotta and Peach Pinwheel Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern

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Terracotta and Peach Pinwheel Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern
110-140 Hours 0 made this
Intermediate Level

Front post stitches build raised spokes over striped rounds, then a graded round makes the square.

110 to 140 Hours

Each square takes under an hour, plus joining and a three-round edge.

Swirling Pinwheels

Eight raised spokes climb over the stripes like the arms of a spinning pinwheel.

About This Terracotta and Peach Pinwheel Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bedspread is made from one hundred and ten squares in three warm, sunny colors: a rich terracotta, a soft peach and a clean white. Each square begins with a little terracotta ring, and then the colors take turns, one round each, building an octagon of stripes. In every round, eight front post stitches reach around the raised stitch below, so eight thick spokes climb from the center to the edge. Because each round adds one stitch to each section, the spokes lean a little as they grow, and the center swirls like a pinwheel or the petals of a dahlia. A white graded round turns the octagon into a square, a round of tiny eyelets sits near each corner, and a peach outline finishes it.

The finished bedspread measures about 104 by 114 inches (264 by 290 cm) including the edge. It is a grid of 10 squares across and 11 squares down, with each square measuring 10 inches after blocking, plus three rounds of peach edging. On a queen mattress that gives a drop of about 22 inches on each side and at the foot, so the bedspread reaches close to the floor. Every square is identical, so once you have learned one, you know the whole pattern.

The stitches are chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet and treble crochet, plus the front post double crochet and reverse single crochet. A front post double crochet is made by inserting your hook around the post of a stitch from the front instead of into its top, so the new stitch sits raised on the surface. It is the secret of the spokes, and it is much easier than it looks. Once you have worked one round, the rhythm of the pattern carries you along.

The squares are joined with peach single crochet on the right side, worked through both squares at once. The peach ridges make a soft grid that frames each pinwheel without competing with it. After all the squares are joined, a round of single crochet, a round of half double crochet and a round of reverse single crochet go around the whole bedspread, giving it a firm, rope-like edge that hangs neatly at the sides of the bed.

In worsted weight cotton the bedspread has a lovely weight and a soft, textured surface. The raised spokes give each square a sculpted, three-dimensional look, and the stripes of terracotta, peach and white glow warmly in sunlight. The colors feel like a desert sunset, a bowl of apricots or a terracotta pot full of flowers. They suit cream walls, warm wood, linen, landscape paintings and chunky knits, and they make a bedroom feel cozy and welcoming in every season.

I rate this pattern as intermediate. You need to be comfortable with front post stitches, frequent color changes and careful counting in each round. The squaring round takes a little attention the first time, but after one or two squares it becomes natural. It suits a maker who loves color and texture and enjoys watching each little pinwheel take shape in their hands. Every round is written out with its stitch count, so you can always check your work.

Terracotta and Peach Pinwheel Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Terracotta and Peach Pinwheel Square Bedspread Crochet Pattern Pattern

I found these three colors at a little yarn shop on a warm autumn afternoon, and I could not leave them on the shelf. The terracotta reminded me of the clay pots on my mother's porch, the peach looked like the apricots from her tree, and the white was as clean as a summer tablecloth. I took them home not knowing what they would become. A week later I had my first pinwheel square, and I knew they had found their purpose.

I love the raised spokes most of all. When you work the first round of front post stitches, nothing much seems to happen. But by the third or fourth round, the spokes start to stand up and lean, and suddenly the center looks like it is spinning. I still get excited every time a square reaches that point. It feels a bit like magic, even though it is just simple stitches placed in a clever order.

I also love that the color changes keep things lively. Every round is a new color, so I never get bored, and I always want to see how the next stripe will look against the last one. It makes the squares go by quickly, and each one feels like a small celebration. I keep my three balls of yarn in a little basket by my chair, and by the end of the evening there is always a new pinwheel on top of the pile.

Here is why this bedspread makes me so happy:

  • The raised spokes make every square look like it is spinning.
  • Three warm colors glow beautifully in sunlight.
  • Each round is a new color, so the work never feels dull.
  • The peach seams frame each pinwheel without overpowering it.
  • The corded edge hangs neatly and wears well.

This bedspread changed our bedroom completely. The room was all cream and beige, with a soft landscape painting over the bed, and it felt calm but a bit sleepy. Now the terracotta and peach bring warmth to everything, and they pick up the colors of the painting and the wood of the nightstands. In the late afternoon, when the sun comes in low through the window, the whole bed glows like a sunset. It is my favorite time of day in that room.

Making it taught me some useful lessons. I learned to work my front post stitches loosely, so the spokes sit up nicely instead of pulling the stripes in. I learned to weave in my ends as I finished each round, because with three colors there are quite a few. And I learned to count every section in the squaring round, since one stitch too many on one side makes the square slant. Those small habits made the whole project smooth and relaxing.

Most of all, I love that this is a bedspread full of warmth and memories. Every color reminds me of my mother's porch, and every square holds a quiet evening of stitching. I hope it will stay in our family for many years, and that someday a grandchild will trace the spokes with a finger and ask how I made them spin. I will be happy to show them.


Switch Things Up

The easiest change is the color trio. Keep one deep color, one medium color and one light color, and the stripes and spokes will always show clearly. Navy, sky blue and white make a crisp seaside version, while forest green, sage and cream feel calm and leafy. Plum, lilac and white look romantic and soft, and mustard, butter yellow and cream are bright and cheerful. For a calm modern look, try charcoal, silver and white.

You can change the size by changing the number of squares. Each square is 10 inches after blocking, and the edge adds about 2 inches on every side. The sizes below include a drop on the sides and the foot. For a coverlet that sits only on top of the mattress, take away two or three squares in each direction.

  • Twin: 7 by 9 squares (63), about 74 by 94 inches
  • Full: 9 by 10 squares (90), about 94 by 104 inches
  • Queen: 10 by 11 squares (110), about 104 by 114 inches
  • King: 12 by 11 squares (132), about 124 by 114 inches

A sofa throw is a lovely smaller version. Make 5 by 6 squares, thirty in total, for a throw of about 54 by 64 inches with the edge. It takes about thirty hours and uses roughly a quarter of the yarn. The pinwheels look wonderful on a cream sofa, and it makes a thoughtful gift for a new home. It is also a good way to practice the post stitches before you start the full bedspread.

For a baby blanket, make 3 by 4 squares for about 34 by 44 inches, or 4 by 4 squares for a square blanket of about 44 inches. Use a soft baby cotton or cotton blend in the same weight. Soft peach, butter yellow and white are sweet for a nursery, as are pale pink, mint and white. The fabric is solid and the edge is firm, but always use it with an adult nearby and keep crochet blankets out of the crib for young babies.

Matching pillows tie the whole bed together. Join four squares in a 2 by 2 block for the front of a large sham, and make the back from four more squares or a plain panel of peach double crochet. Join front and back with peach single crochet on three sides, slip in the pillow and close the last side, then work the corded edge around it. For a lumbar pillow, join three squares in a row. One square on its own makes a sweet cushion for a kitchen chair.

You can also make the pinwheel without squaring it. Stop after Round 7 and work a peach round of single crochet for a round octagon mandala. A single octagon makes a lovely table mat or wall hanging, and a few joined together make a pretty table runner. Hung in a sunny window, a mandala in these warm colors brightens any room. It is a quick way to use up leftover yarn from the bedspread.

If you would like a different edge, there are easy options. For a softer look, replace the reverse single crochet with a round of small peach shells. For a bolder frame, work the first edge round in terracotta, the second in white and the third in peach, so the edge echoes the stripes in the squares. For a boho touch, add terracotta tassels at the four corners. Whatever you choose, keep the edge firm enough to balance the weight of the bedspread.

You can also play with the yarn weight. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, squares come out at about 8 inches, so you need more of them, but the bedspread is lighter and drapes more. In a bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook, squares grow to about 13 inches, and 8 by 9 squares cover a queen bed much faster. Acrylic or a cotton blend is lighter and warmer. Always make one test square in your new yarn and measure it before you buy the rest.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (4) cotton yarn in soft peach (Color B): about 2,100 g / 4,200 yd (based on 200 yd per 100 g), which includes about 1,100 yd for the joins and the edge
02 Worsted weight (4) cotton yarn in white (Color C): about 1,700 g / 3,400 yd
03 Worsted weight (4) cotton yarn in terracotta (Color A): about 1,250 g / 2,500 yd
04 One or two extra balls of each color from the same dye lot as a safety margin

— Tools Required

05 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
06 Yarn needle
07 Stitch markers
08 Scissors
09 Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
10 Measuring tape
11 Spray bottle with water

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 110-140 Hours

0% complete

— Pinwheel Square (Make 110, terracotta, peach and white) :

Color A is terracotta, Color B is soft peach and Color C is white. Rounds 1 to 7 change color every round in the order A, B, C, A, B, C, A. Rounds 8 to 10 are worked in C and Round 11 in B. Join each new color in the first st of a section and fasten off the old color. The beginning ch-3 counts as a dc throughout.
Fpdc: yo, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the st below, yo and pull up a loop, (yo and pull through 2 loops) twice. Skip the st behind the fpdc.
Round 1: With A, make a magic ring. Ch 3, 15 dc in the ring. Pull the ring closed and sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off A. (16 dc)
Round 2: Join B. Ch 3, dc in the same st, fpdc around next st, *2 dc in next st, fpdc around next st; rep from * 6 more times. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off B. (24 sts: 16 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 3 sts)
Round 3: Join C. Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, fpdc around next fpdc, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, fpdc around next fpdc; rep from * 6 more times. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off C. (32 sts: 24 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 4 sts)
Round 4: Join A. Ch 3, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, fpdc around next fpdc, *dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, fpdc around next fpdc; rep from * 6 more times. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off A. (40 sts: 32 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 5 sts)
Round 5: Join B. Work as Round 4, with dc in each st of the section up to the last dc, 2 dc in the last dc and fpdc around the fpdc. Fasten off B. (48 sts: 40 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 6 sts)
Round 6: Join C. Work as Round 5. Fasten off C. (56 sts: 48 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 7 sts)
Round 7: Join A. Work as Round 5. Fasten off A. (64 sts: 56 dc, 8 fpdc; 8 sections of 8 sts)
Round 8 turns the octagon into a square. Mark the fpdc of every other section: these 4 sts are the corners. Each side has 15 sts between two corner fpdc, with the fpdc of the other section in the middle.
Round 8: Join C in any marked corner fpdc. Ch 4 (counts as tr), (tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in the same st, *dc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in each of next 3 sts, sc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in each of next 3 sts, dc in each of next 3 sts**, (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in the next marked corner st; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-4 to join. (76 sts: 16 tr, 24 dc, 24 hdc, 12 sc; 19 sts on each side between corner sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 9: Sl st in next tr and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, *dc in each of next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in each of next 13 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in each of next 2 sts**, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. (84 dc, 8 ch-1 eyelets, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 10: Sl st in next dc and into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, *dc in each dc and in each ch-1 eyelet across**, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off C. (108 dc: 27 dc on each side, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Round 11: Join B in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same sp, *sc in each dc across**, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner sp; rep from * 2 more times, then rep from * to ** once. Sl st in the first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in all ends. (116 sc: 29 sc on each side counting the corner sc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Rounds 1 to 7 measure about 7.5 inches (19 cm) across the octagon. Block each finished square to 10 by 10 inches (25 by 25 cm).

— Layout (10 x 11 grid, 110 squares) :

All 110 squares are the same, so there is no chart. Lay them out right side up with the spokes all swirling the same way.
Rows 1 to 11: Place 10 squares side by side in each row, matching the corners carefully. (11 rows x 10 squares = 110 squares)
Mix squares made on different days across the grid, so any small differences in tension are spread out.

— Peach Seam Join (Color B) :

Join all horizontal seams first, one full row at a time, then all vertical seams. Hold two squares wrong sides together so the seam forms a slim peach ridge on the right side.
Step 1: Join B through both corner ch-2 sps at the start of the seam. Ch 1, sc through both corner sps. (1 sc)
Step 2: Sc through both loops of both squares in each of the 29 sc along the side. (29 sc)
Step 3: Sc through both corner ch-2 sps at the end of the seam. (1 sc, 31 sc for the whole seam)
Step 4: Ch 1, pick up the next pair of squares and work Steps 1 to 3 again, continuing to the end of the row. Fasten off at the end of each long seam. (1 ch between pairs)
On the vertical seams, ch 1 across each place where four corners meet, so the crossing stays flat. Keep the seam relaxed and stretch it gently as you go.

— Peach Corded Edge (Color B) :

The counts below are for the 10 x 11 queen grid: 10 squares and 9 seams on each short side, 11 squares and 10 seams on each long side.
Round 1: Join B in any outer corner ch-2 sp of the bedspread. Ch 1, 3 sc in the same sp, *[sc in each of the 29 sc along the side of the square, then 3 sc across the seam: 1 sc in the corner sp of this square, 1 sc in the top of the seam and 1 sc in the corner sp of the next square] across the side, working the last square up to its outer corner without the seam sts, 3 sc in the outer corner sp; rep from * 3 more times, omitting the last 3-sc corner. Sl st in the first sc to join. (1,344 sc: 319 sc on each short side and 351 sc on each long side between the 4 center corner sts)
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in each st around, working 3 hdc in each center corner st. Sl st in the top of the beginning ch-2 to join. (1,352 hdc: 321 hdc on each short side and 353 hdc on each long side between the 4 new center corner sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, working from left to right, reverse sc in each st around. Sl st in the first st to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (1,352 reverse sc)
For any other grid, each side of Round 1 has 32 sc per square minus 1, so you can work out your own counts before you start.

Assembly Instructions

  1. Make 110 Pinwheel Squares, weaving in the color change ends after each round as you go.
  2. Block every square to 10 by 10 inches, pinning the corners square, and let them dry completely.
  3. Lay the squares out in 11 rows of 10 following the Layout section, with all the spokes swirling the same way.
  4. Work all the horizontal seams with the Peach Seam Join, wrong sides together, one full row at a time.
  5. Work all the vertical seams the same way, with a ch 1 across each place where four corners meet.
  6. Work Rounds 1 to 3 of the Peach Corded Edge around the whole bedspread.
  7. Weave in the last ends and give the finished bedspread a final light blocking on a clean floor.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Losing the spokes. In every round from Round 3 on, the fpdc must go around the fpdc of the round below, not around a regular double crochet. If you miss it by one stitch, the spoke breaks, a bump appears in the wrong place, and the pinwheel looks messy. It is easy to do with a new color, because the raised stitch can be hidden behind the new loops. Before you work the last stitches of each section, look for the raised spoke and pinch it with your fingers. Then insert your hook around that post. Count 8 spokes at the end of every round.

Spokes that pull the stripes in. A front post stitch uses a little more yarn than a normal stitch, and if you work it tightly, it pulls the round in and the octagon cups like a bowl. Then the squaring round fights against the cupping and the square never lies flat. Pull the loop up to the full height of the round before you finish each fpdc, and keep the regular double crochet relaxed too. Lay the octagon flat after Round 7. If it cups, go up half a hook size for the rounds with post stitches.

Miscounting the squaring round. Round 8 needs exactly 15 stitches between the corners: 3 dc, 3 hdc, 3 sc, 3 hdc and 3 dc. If you lose track, one side gets 14 or 16 stitches, the square slants and the eyelets in Round 9 land in the wrong place. Mark the four corner spokes before you begin, and count each side as you go. The middle sc should land on the fpdc of the other section, which is a handy check. After the round, count 19 stitches between every pair of corner spaces.

Too many ends at the end. With a color change on every round of the center, each square has around fourteen ends. If you leave them all until the bedspread is finished, you face more than a thousand ends to weave in, which can take weeks. Weave in each pair of ends as soon as you finish the round, or crochet over the tails in the next round so they are trapped inside the stitches. Trim them neatly on the wrong side. It feels slower at first, but it saves a mountain of work later.


Denise

Denise is a crochet designer who loves warm colors, textured stitches and cozy heirloom pieces for the home.



Important Notes

Gauge and square size matter in this pattern. With worsted weight cotton and a 5 mm hook, Rounds 1 to 7 should measure about 7.5 inches (19 cm) across the octagon, and the finished square should block to 10 inches (25 cm). Make one square and block it before you buy all your yarn. If it is smaller, go up a hook size. If it is larger, go down a size. All the grid sizes in this pattern assume a 10 inch square.

Block every square before you join. Pin it to a blocking mat at 10 by 10 inches with straight sides and square corners, and smooth the spokes with your fingers so they all lean the same way. Spray with water until damp, then let it dry completely. Blocking flattens the octagon, squares the corners and makes every square the same size. Block the finished bedspread once more after the edge is done.

This bedspread uses about 2,100 grams of peach, 1,700 grams of white and 1,250 grams of terracotta for the queen size. Buy all of it at once, and check that every ball has the same dye lot number. Warm colors like terracotta and peach can vary a lot between lots, and a change in shade would show in the stripes. Buy one or two extra balls of each color so you do not run short.

Wash the bedspread on a gentle cold cycle in a large machine, or by hand in a bathtub, with a mild detergent. Terracotta sits right against white, so always add a color catcher sheet, especially in the first several washes. Never use bleach, which would fade the warm colors and spot the white. Do not wring or twist it. Press out the water with towels and lay it flat to dry. Avoid the dryer, which can shrink cotton.


I hope this bedspread fills your bedroom with the same warm, sunny glow it brings to mine. It is a long project, but every square is full of little joys: a terracotta ring, a new color every round, eight spokes that start to swirl, and a white frame that turns it into a neat square. Do not let the number one hundred and ten worry you. You do not have to make them all today. You only have to make the first pinwheel.

So gather your terracotta, peach and white, settle into a cozy chair with a cup of tea, and start with that little ring of sixteen double crochet. Watch the spokes rise and the stripes grow, then square it off and block it. Hold it up to the light and imagine your whole bed covered in pinwheels. Then make another. Before you know it, you will have a bedspread to treasure for years. Happy crocheting, my friends.

Crochet Abbreviations

01 A — Color A, terracotta
02 B — Color B, soft peach
03 C — Color C, white
04 ch — chain
05 sl st — slip stitch
06 sc — single crochet
07 hdc — half double crochet
08 dc — double crochet
09 tr — treble crochet
10 fpdc — front post double crochet
11 reverse sc — reverse single crochet (crab stitch), worked from left to right
12 yo — yarn over
13 sk — skip
14 st(s) — stitch(es)
15 sp(s) — space(s)
16 ch-2 sp — the space made by 2 chains (same for ch-1)
17 rep — repeat

You Ask, We Answer

What is the finished size of this bedspread?

The bedspread in the photos measures about 104 by 114 inches (264 by 290 cm) including the edge. It is made from 110 squares in a grid of 10 across and 11 down, and each square measures 10 inches after blocking. The peach corded edge adds about 2 inches on each side. On a standard queen mattress, which is 60 by 80 inches, this size gives a drop of about 22 inches on each side and at the foot, so the bedspread reaches close to the floor, with extra length at the head to tuck under the pillows. If your bed is taller or lower, measure from the top of the mattress to the floor and add or remove squares to suit. Remember that a 10 inch square depends on your gauge, so measure your first blocked square and multiply by the number of squares you plan before you buy all your yarn. The variations section lists grids for twin, full and king beds too.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make it smaller?

Yes. The pattern works in any yarn weight, but the size of each square will change, so you need to adjust the number of squares. In DK cotton with a 4 mm hook, squares come out at about 8 inches, and you would need about 13 by 14 squares for the same queen size. In a bulky yarn with a 6.5 mm hook, squares grow to about 13 inches, and 8 by 9 squares cover a queen bed. To make a smaller piece, simply make fewer squares: thirty squares in a 5 by 6 grid make a sofa throw, and twelve to sixteen squares make a baby blanket. The rounds and stitch counts of the square stay exactly the same in every case, and so do the join and the edge method. For the edge, each side of Round 1 has 32 sc per square minus 1, so you can work out your counts before you start.

How do I wash and care for the bedspread?

Cotton is easy to care for, but a bedspread this size is heavy when wet, so treat it gently. Wash it on a cold, gentle cycle in a large capacity machine, or by hand in the bathtub with a mild detergent. Always add a color catcher sheet, because the terracotta can release a little dye onto the white stripes, especially in the first several washes. Never use bleach, as it weakens cotton and would fade the warm colors. Do not hang it wet from a line, since the weight will stretch the squares and pull the edge out of shape. Instead, press out the water with towels and lay it flat to dry, smoothing the spokes as you go. Between seasons, fold it loosely and store it in a cotton bag, not plastic, with a sachet of lavender or cedar to keep moths away.