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Terracotta Lace Bed Cover Crochet Pattern

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Terracotta Lace Bed Cover Crochet Pattern
110-140 Hours 0 made this
Intermediate Level

You need basic stitches, a magic ring and a little patience for the bobble edge.

110-140 Hours

Each square takes about two hours, so this is a long and rewarding project.

Warm Heirloom Look

Rich terracotta lace with camel flower centers gives your bedroom a cozy, handmade glow.

About This Terracotta Lace Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

This bed cover is made from 48 lace squares in rich terracotta. Each square starts with a camel-tan flower center and grows into a square with open mesh rounds. The squares are joined in a grid of 6 across and 8 down, then finished with a shell round and a bobble edge.

It finishes at about 78 by 102 inches, which drapes well over a queen bed. You need basic stitches, a magic ring and the patience to join squares. If you can work in the round, you can make it.

Terracotta Lace Bed Cover Crochet Pattern step detail

Why You'll Love This Terracotta Lace Bed Cover Crochet Pattern Pattern

I love this project because every square is small and portable. I crochet one in the afternoon light, then tuck it in my bag. There is no huge blanket on my lap for months.

The warm color makes a bedroom feel like autumn all year. It is also a lovely gift, and it becomes a family keepsake.


Switch Things Up

Try deep teal with a cream center, sage green with a soft gold center, or dusty rose with ivory. Make 4 by 6 squares for a sofa throw, or 3 by 4 squares for a baby blanket. You can also work Rounds 1 to 6 only and join four small squares into a matching pillow cover. For a simpler edge, finish with Border Round 1 only.


Materials Needed

— Main Fabric

01 Worsted weight (size 4) mercerized cotton yarn in terracotta: about 2,900 g (about 5,800 yd) in total, roughly 47 g (95 yd) per square for 48 squares, plus about 650 g (1,300 yd) for joining and the bobble edge
02 Worsted weight (size 4) mercerized cotton yarn in camel-tan: about 400 g (about 800 yd) in total, roughly 8 g (16 yd) per square for the flower centers

— Tools Required

03 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
04 Yarn needle
05 Stitch markers
06 Scissors
07 Blocking mats and pins
08 Measuring tape

The Free Pattern

Intermediate 110-140 Hours

0% complete

— Lace Square (Make 48, camel-tan center and terracotta) :

Each square measures about 12 inches (30 cm) after blocking. Join each round with a sl st unless noted. Work Rounds 1 to 3 in camel-tan for the flower center, then change to terracotta for Rounds 4 to 14.
Round 1 (camel-tan): Make a magic ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), 15 dc in the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (16 dc)
Round 2 (camel-tan): Ch 1, sc in the same st, ch 3, skip 1 dc, [sc in next dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc] 7 times, sl st to the first sc. (8 sc, 8 ch-3 sps)
Round 3 (camel-tan): Sl st into the first ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in the same sp, ch 1, [5 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1] 7 times, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. Fasten off camel-tan. (40 dc in 8 petals of 5 dc, 8 ch-1 sps)
Round 4 (terracotta): Join terracotta with a sl st in the center (3rd) dc of any petal, ch 1, sc in the same dc, ch 6, [sc in the center dc of the next petal, ch 6] 7 times, sl st to the first sc. (8 sc, 8 ch-6 loops)
Round 5: Sl st into the first ch-6 loop. Loops 1, 3, 5 and 7 are the corners, loops 2, 4, 6 and 8 are the sides. Corner loop: ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc all in the loop (for later corners: 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc). Side loop: 7 dc in the loop. Work ch 1 after each loop, skipping the sc between loops. Sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (52 dc, 4 corner ch-3 sps, 8 ch-1 sps; each side has 13 dc and 2 ch-1 sps)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around, working 3 sc in each corner ch-3 sp. Sl st to the first sc. (72 sc: 15 sc on each side plus 3 sc in each corner)
Round 7: Sl st to the center sc of a corner. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 3, dc in the same sc. *[Ch 1, skip 1 sc, dc in next sc] 8 times, ch 1, skip 1 sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next corner center sc.* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. On the last side work [ch 1, skip 1 sc, dc in next sc] 8 times, ch 1, skip 1 sc, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (40 dc, 36 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-3 sps; each side has 10 dc)
Round 8: Sl st into the corner ch-3 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 3, dc in the same sp. *[Ch 1, dc in next dc] 10 times, ch 1, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the next corner ch-3 sp.* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. On the last side work [ch 1, dc in next dc] 10 times, ch 1, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (48 dc, 44 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-3 sps; each side has 12 dc)
Round 9: Work as Round 8, but work [ch 1, dc in next dc] 12 times on each side. (56 dc, 52 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-3 sps; each side has 14 dc)
Round 10: Work as Round 8, but work [ch 1, dc in next dc] 14 times on each side. (64 dc, 60 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-3 sps; each side has 16 dc)
Round 11: Work as Round 8, but work [ch 1, dc in next dc] 16 times on each side. (72 dc, 68 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-3 sps; each side has 18 dc)
Round 12: Work as Round 8, but work [ch 1, dc in next dc] 18 times on each side. (80 dc, 76 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-3 sps; each side has 20 dc)
Round 13: Work as Round 8, but work [ch 1, dc in next dc] 20 times on each side. (88 dc, 84 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-3 sps; each side has 22 dc)
Round 14: Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around, working 3 sc in each corner ch-3 sp. Sl st to the first sc and fasten off. (184 sc: 43 sc on each side plus 3 sc in each corner)
Block every square to 12 by 12 inches before joining. Pin the corners first, then the sides.

— Layout :

Arrange the 48 squares in 8 rows of 6 squares. Keep every flower center facing the same way. The finished joined panel measures about 72 by 96 inches before the edge.
Joining: Hold two squares with right sides together and whip stitch through the back loops only with terracotta. Each seam is 47 stitches: 43 side sc plus 2 corner sc at each end, which means the 3-sc corner groups are matched stitch to stitch. Join the squares into 8 strips of 6, then join the 8 strips. (47 stitches per seam)

— Border (Make 1, terracotta) :

The long sides are 8 squares and the short sides are 6 squares. Mark the 4 outer corner center stitches before you start. A popcorn (pc) is 5 dc in the same st, drop the loop, insert the hook in the first dc, pick up the dropped loop and pull it through.
Border Round 1: Join yarn at any outer corner center st, ch 1, 3 sc in the corner center st. Sc in every st along the edge, working one sc in each seam st of both squares. On each long side you will have 374 sc between corner centers, so work 2 sc in 2 evenly spaced sts to reach 376. Each short side has 280 sc between corner centers and needs no change. Work 3 sc in each corner center st. Sl st to the first sc. (1,324 sc: 376 on each long side, 280 on each short side, 3 in each corner)
Border Round 2: Sl st to the center st of a corner (the 2nd of the 3 corner sc), ch 3 (counts as dc), 8 dc in the same st. Then, along each side: sc in next st, [skip 3 sts, 7 dc in next st, skip 3 sts, sc in next st] 46 times on a long side (34 times on a short side), skip 3 sts, 7 dc in next st, skip 3 sts, then work 9 dc in the next corner center st. Sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (164 shells of 7 dc and 4 corner shells of 9 dc, 164 sc; 47 shells on each long side, 35 on each short side)
Border Round 3: Sl st in each dc to the 1st dc of the first shell. In each 7-dc shell: sc in dc 1, pc in dc 2, sc in dc 3, pc in dc 4, sc in dc 5, pc in dc 6, sc in dc 7. In each 9-dc corner shell: sc in dc 1, pc in dc 2, sc in dc 3, pc in dc 4, sc in dc 5, pc in dc 6, sc in dc 7, pc in dc 8, sc in dc 9. Work 1 sc in each sc between shells. Sl st to the first sc and fasten off. (840 sc and 508 pc)

Assembly Instructions

  1. Block all 48 lace squares to 12 by 12 inches and let them dry flat.
  2. Lay the squares out on a bed or floor in 8 rows of 6 squares, with all the camel-tan flower centers facing the same way.
  3. Whip stitch the squares into 8 strips of 6, using the back loops only and 47 stitches per seam.
  4. Join the 8 strips side by side with the same whip stitch, matching the corners at every crossing.
  5. Pin the joined panel to a large blocking surface and steam lightly to smooth the seams.
  6. Work Border Round 1 around the whole panel, adjusting the long side count to 376 sc as written.
  7. Work Border Rounds 2 and 3 to finish the shell and bobble edge, then weave in all ends.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Skipping the blocking step. Unblocked squares curl and are hard to match at the seams, so block every square to the same size.

Losing count in the mesh rounds. Place a stitch marker in each corner ch-3 space and check that each side has the right dc count before you move on.

Working loose popcorns. Keep your tension even and pull each popcorn closed firmly so the bobbles stand up along the edge.

Starting the shell edge without adjusting the stitch count. Check the long and short side totals first, because the shells only fit when the counts divide by 8.


Denise

Denise designs cozy crochet patterns for home, with clear instructions that suit makers who love lace and heirloom projects.



Important Notes

Gauge and size are estimates from a photo. Work one full square first and block it. If it measures more or less than 12 inches, change your hook size and recalculate the grid and edge counts.

Yarn amounts are estimates. Buy all your yarn in the same dye lot, with a little extra in case you tighten or loosen your tension.

Deep terracotta can bleed on first washing. Wash cold on a gentle cycle with a color catcher, test a swatch first, and dry flat.


I hope you enjoy every square of this one. Take your time, block as you go, and send me a picture of your first finished square. Happy crocheting!

Crochet Abbreviations

01 ch — chain
02 sl st — slip stitch
03 sc — single crochet
04 dc — double crochet
05 pc — popcorn stitch (5 dc in the same stitch, drop the loop, insert the hook in the first dc, pull the dropped loop through)
06 sp — space
07 sps — spaces
08 st — stitch
09 sts — stitches

You Ask, We Answer

How big is the finished bed cover?

About 78 by 102 inches with the bobble edge, made from 48 squares of 12 inches each in a 6 by 8 grid. It drapes over a queen bed with a generous drop.

Can I use a different yarn weight or make it a different size?

Yes. A thinner cotton with a smaller hook gives a finer lace square, so you may need more rounds to reach 12 inches. For another size, change the grid, for example 4 by 6 squares for a throw, and recalculate the border so the side counts divide by 8.

How do I wash and care for it?

Wash cold on a gentle cycle with a color catcher and dry flat. Reshape the bobble edge while it is damp so the popcorns stand up.